Just in time for the holidays, big Niagara reds

Some absolutely stunning wines are being released just in time for the holiday season.

Some are making their way to the LCBO, while others are in such small supply that they are available only at the winery while supplies last.

These new wine releases (in one case, a spectacular re-release) are all from three established wineries in Niagara — Henry of Pelham, Chateau des Charmes and Creekside, all of which have proven track records for making quality wines vintage to vintage.

First, Henry of Pelham has just released its 2007 Cabernet-Merlot Reserve made from estate fruit sourced from the famous Short Hills Bench. The family winery, run by the three Speck brothers, has also decided to re-release the spectacular 1999

Cabernet-Merlot Reserve, a rare treat that Niagara wine lovers should consider snapping up to drink now or to watch how it develops further in the bottle.

A Toronto wine lover, Paolo Berard, was so impressed with 1999 Henry of Pelham Cab-Merlot that he wrote about it in a special feature called The Greatest Wine Story Ever Told for the Toronto wine and food website Spotlight Toronto (spotlightoronto).

A tasting group had placed it third in a blind tasting where only Chateau Latour 1995 and Joseph Phelps Insignia 1997 bested it. Placing behind Henry of Pelham were the likes of Chateau Haut Brion 1995, Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1995, Chateau Margaux 1996 (all First Growth Bordeaux) and Beringer Private Reserve 1992. Quite an accomplishment for a wine that retailed at around $25, while the others can cost more than $500 a bottle.

Here’s a review of both the 2007 and 1999:

Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Reserve 2007 ($25, Vintages, 4.5 stars) — This may well prove to be another 1999. It’s so young and tight but still shows the beautiful aromas of the vintage — blackberries, chocolate, spice, oak tones and vanilla. This big red started to open up after it was double decanted and tasted a day after opening. Earth, rich dark fruits, licorice, spice all play a role on the palate with fine oak and structure. It’s a youthful beauty which will integrate into a stunning wine down the road.

Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot 1999 ($50, winery only, 5 stars) — On the nose, this beautiful Bordeaux-like wine is in perfect harmony and at its peak right now. This wine is exactly why wine lovers collect so much Bordeaux, it just gets better with age. It starts with blackberry, plum, cherry-kirsch, vanilla and lavish spices all in unison. It still has freshness on the palate but it’s totally integrated and spectacular for its depth of flavour. Among the finest aged reds I have tasted in Niagara.

Chateau des Charmes has released its flagship red, Equuleus 2007, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 25% Merlot, all grown in the estate’s sweet spot, a corner block of the Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard.

Grapes grown there are hand-picked, vinified separately and spend 12 months in French barriques. After the best barrels are chosen, the wine is blended and then spends another year “coming of age” in the bottle before being released. This wine is only made in exceptional vintages. There will be no Equuleus in either 2008 or 2009.

Chateau des Charmes Equuleus 2007 ($40, Vintages Dec. 11, winery, online, 4.5-5 stars) — Wow. That was my first response to the nose on this wine that I sent through my aeration device about four times and decanted for hours. The nose is a nice collage of aromatics from cassis and currants to leather, a wild raspberry note, mocha, top grade oak and swirling spice and smoke. It’s rich and flavourful in the mouth, with chewy dark fruits, gripping tannins, waves of cocoa and spice and a long, long finish. This has the stuffing to go on for another 10 or 15 years.

Also from Chateau des Charmes:

Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2008 ($17, Vintages, 4 stars) — A pretty and fragrant nose of fresh peach, pear and apple. A delight in the mouth, it bursts with melon-pear fruit and a touch of citrus zest on the finish of this unoaked white.

Creekside Estate Winery has just released its very limited Undercurrent portfolio of wines it categorizes as misfts. These are wines nicknamed “uber … like the fat, obnoxious uncle at the family reunion who is impossible to ignore, demanding attention and yet oddly lovable all the same.”

Here’s what I liked (wines are only available at the winery):

Creekside Undercurrent Uber Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($37, 4.5 stars) — A wild and crazy nose of tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla, sweet spice, quince and totally over the top in a very good way. The wine gets its unbridled personality from barrel fermentation and aging in oak. It’s sensational on the palate. Rich, ripe tropical fruit with a big wet kiss of spicy oak followed by a long, delicious finish.

Creekside Undercurrent Malbec Shiraz 2007 ($33, 4.5 stars) — The Undercurrent release includes three different Malbecs (two blends and one 100% varietal). They are all special in their own way but I loved this most with the red fruits on the nose lifted by peppery spice. The palate shows lovely raspberry-cherry fruit, vibrancy, balance and wild tannins that need some time to tame and integrate.

Enjoy!