Niagara Wine Reviews

Reif’s TBA Riesling a thing of beauty

Reif's new First Growth TBA Riesling.

It’s a recipe that is not for the feint of heart.

Start with the oldest block of Riesling vines on the estate, the ones that were planted way back in 1981 at Reif Estate Winery.

Reif's First Growth TBA Riesling.
Reif's First Growth TBA Riesling.

Hope and pray for the grapes to develop Botrytis Cinerea, a grey fungus more commonly called “noble rot” that is either very desirable or very scary, depending on what you are trying to achieve.

Let the grapes, 25% of which are affected by the noble rot, hang on the vine long into the fall. Pick in late November at 20 Brix and place in a kiln where the Botrytis fungus will affect the rest of grapes. Dry in the kiln until early December when grapes reach 35.7 Brix (amount of sweetness).

The end result is a rare bottling of Reif Estate First Growth Totally Botrytis Affected (TBA) Riesling 2009. It’s a daring move for Reif, which has included the just-released wine as part of its First Growth series. It’s the first white wine winemakers Klaus Reif and Roberto DiDomenico have ever made in the super elite series.

Drying the noble rot grapes in the kiln draws water from the fruit, leaving behind ultra concentrated Riesling juice that’s then fermented into a sweet, intense and magical dessert wine with classic wild honey notes and exotic flavours.

Here are my tasting notes from this fascinating wine:

Reif Estate First Growth TBA Riesling 2009 ($50 for 200 mL, winery only, 4.5-5 stars) — Sublime on the nose with buckwheat honey, dried apricot, sweet tropical fruits and marmalade notes. It’s viscous and wildly exotic in the mouth with lemon pie, honeycomb, tangerine and racy, zesty acidity to balance the sweet notes. A lip-smacking treat.

Some other wines enjoyed recently:

Inniskillin Legacy Pinot Gris.
Inniskillin Legacy Pinot Gris.

Inniskillin Legacy Pinot Gris 2009 ($35, very limited at winery only, 4.5 stars) — Winemaker Bruce Nicholson chooses his limited Legacy series wines carefully before he decides to put his signature on the gold label series. This is another winner. Such a great nose of hazelnuts, vanilla, toast, creamy peach and added tropical fruits chiming in. It’s honied and layered on the palate in an off-dry, elegant and concentrated style that shows oak, vanilla, nuts and gorgeous fruit from beginning to end. A perfect Pinot Gris done in a style that’s a showcase for Niagara fruit.

Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2008 ($47, winery or on-line only, 4.5 stars) — A nose that shows ripe and concentrated apricot, honey, peach, and a medley of tropical fruits. It showcases the vintage on the palate with racy, zesty acidity to balance out the layers of sweet, ripe fruit. Very well put together Icewine.

Jackson-Triggs Silver Series Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18, Vintages, 4 stars) — A new mid-range tier from J-T. The nose shows ripe grapefruit, grassy-herbaceous notes and fresh citrus zest. Perfect acid-fruit balance in the mouth with clean and fresh citrus flavours. Excellent job with this Kiwi-style Sauvignon.

Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2007 ($33, Vintages, 4.5 stars) — A classic cassis, plum, pepper, blueberry nose that’s rich, spicy and inviting. It’s smooth on the palate with rich currants and raspberry fruits with smoke, pepper, spice and licorice. A big single-vineyard Syrah, laden in fruit, that cries out for a juicy steak pairing.

Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Merlot 2007 ($27, Vintages, 4 stars) — It’s so nice to see this vineyard delivering such classic wines. The Merlot delivers a nose of black cherry, plum, spice, oak, vanilla-molasses and pepper. It’s rich in the mouth with cherry-kirsch and currant fruits, smoke, licorice, ripe tannins all leading to a long finish. To lay down for a few years or enjoy with smoked back ribs.

•••

Some last-minute bubbly suggestions for New Year’s:

Fielding's Sparkling Riesling.
Fielding's Sparkling Riesling.

OK, it’s really late in the game, but you need something that opens with a bang, delivers great taste and is available at the LCBO. Here are some top-notch local sparklers to grab for the New Year’s Eve party (all previously reviewed and wonderful sparklers).

• Flat Rock Riddled 2007 ($25, Vintages)

• Angels Gate Archangel Pinot Noir Rose 2008 ($25, Vintages)

• Fielding Estate Sparkling Riesling ($28, Vintages)

• Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose or Brut ($30, Vintages)

• Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionelle ($21, LCBO)

• Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Methode Classique Brut 2005 ($20, Vintages)

Enjoy and cheers to a great New Year!