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Bubbles and Icewine from Henry of Pelham (what’s not to like?) plus a great Old Vines Riesling from Chateau des Charmes

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An awful lot of sparkling wine gets spilled at this time of the year. By “spilled,” I mean ingested, and by “this time of year,” I’m talking about the holiday season. In case you’ve missed the non-stop radio ads, the mall crush, and the flood of Christmas gift suggestions flooding our in-boxes that started the day after Halloween, we are firmly into the holiday season. So ho, ho, ho, to all.

Like it or not, we are barreling head-first into the stressful season of consumerism and over-indulgence. It should be a time to sit back, relax and reflect on what we have and simply enjoy it with friends and family. When did it become so complicated?

One of the great stress-relievers is the joy that can be found in the tiny bubbles of sparkling wine made in so many great styles in Niagara. We have a perfect grape-growing climate for early-picked Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that give sparkling wines their crisp acidity and fresh flavours.

cc-brut-bottleSo much wonderful bubbly is made now in Ontario as wine lovers continue to flock to this style of wine.

Wineries such as Jackson-Triggs, Chateau des Charmes, Hillebrand, Peller Estates and many more have a long tradition of sparkling wines in their portfolios. And, of course, Henry of Pelham, with its Cuvee Catharine non-vintage Brut and Rose, as always been a staple in the bubbly category.

Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine sparkling wines are named after Catharine Smith, Henry (Smith) of Pelham’s wife.

There are two non-vintage wines in the portfolio, a Brut and a Rose Brut, both of which are made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They see aging for an average of 30 months, meaning that it takes up to three years from harvest to finished wine.

It’s a style that has served Henry of Pelham well but, in 2013, a vintage dated Blanc de Blanc (all Chardonnay) wine will be added to the portfolio as a tete de cuvee for the winery’s 25th anniversary of winemaking. This wine will have seen 60 months of bottle aging after partial barrel fermentation.

Cuvee Catharine is made in the classic Champagne style with secondary fermentation taking place in the bottle and each wine is aged for approximately 24-plus months on the lees before disgorging.

Tasting the new release of the Henry of Pelham Catharines Cuvee Brut, I am reminded of how wonderful and consistent this sparkler is from vintage to vintage, which is what you want from a non-vintage wine. Style is important.

But I also tried the Brut, after a suggestion from the winery, with a dose of Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Icewine and with a shot of Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine, a concoction HoP calls Kir Catharine.

The combination was thrilling! A perfect holiday elixir that marries the fresh and vibrant flavours of sparkling with the sweet and fruit-laden taste of the two icewines. I am definitely having both on hand for the Christmas crush.

Here are notes on some new releases from Henry of Pelham as well as a couple of new wines from Chateau des Charmes:

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Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut ($30, winery, Vintages, 90 points) — The nose is all about toast and brioche with fresh baked apples and citrus. Love the apple flavours, searing acidity, toast and roasted almond flavours. This sparkler has a lively and textured bead of bubbles.

Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2009 ($45 for 375 ml, winery, vintages, 92 points) — A gorgeous and balanced icewine with a nose of wild honey, citrus and peach compote and concentrated tropical fruit notes. The acid from the vintage cuts through and balanced the super-concentrated citus-peach flavours that are drenched in natural honey notes. It’s layered, superbly textured and gorgeously balanced.

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Icewine 2010 ($40 for 200 ml, winery, 88 points) — Aromas of raspberry, cherry and strawberry fold into sweet notes of honey. It’s a lighter style than I remember with rich, but not-overpowering fruits, and medium acid.

The Kir Catharine:

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Take 3 oz of Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut. Add 1 oz of Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine or 1 oz of Henry of Pelham Cabernet Franc Icewine (poured over top of a spoon for a layered effect). This is a hedonistic holiday treat that will impress even your most discerning Christmas guests. Simply delicious!

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old vinesChateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2008 ($17, winery, Vintages Dec. 3, 91 points) — Chateau des Charmes sources the grapes for this from the estate’s oldest vineyards planted in 1978. Only the oldest and most mature blocks are picked for the Old Vines Riesling. The nose shows wonderful flint, citrus, tropical and some pear and spice notes. I love this wine on the palate with a substantive array of fruit, layers of minerality, balancing acidity and a sweet note of petrol emerging. Buy, drink now or cellar if you prefer Riesling with rich mineral notes. Very fine sip.

Chateau des Charmes Estate Pinot Noir 2008 ($15, winery, LCBO, 86 points) — What a nicely put together affordable Pinot from this St. Davids Bench producer. Lovely, friendly notes of strawberry and cherry fruit with just a hint of spice and forest floor. It’s simply delicious and uncomplicated on the palate with forward red fruits that are soft and approachable to go with silky tannins. Easy sipping Pinot.

Enjoy!