Riverview Cellars has made a concerted effort to raise the bar higher in its small but growing portfolio of wines, but it has clearly set its sights on making some of the most lush and exotic icewines in Niagara.
Its Buona Notte Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 icewine was simply stunning and started an annual tradition that has now expanded into the white varieties at the top level.
When I first tasted the red Buona Notte wine over two years ago it was a knockout — a rare icewine with notes of strawberry preserves, roasted nuts, creme brule and cherry-kirsch all wrapped up in waves of exotic spice. I tried the wine again a year later only to confirm my initial review, but it had evolved into an ever better wine with more mature, darker fruits, almond and lavish spices all perfectly integrated.
While the 07 was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a rarity for icewine, the 2008 was made with 90% Cab Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc and the 2009 is 100% Cabernet Franc. (Reviews for both wines are below).
With the ripe 2010 vintage, Riverview has crafted another blockbuster with the Buona Notte White, the first time a white has been made under the top tier Notte series.
The blend is 33% Riesling from totally botrytis-affected (TBA) grapes and the rest Vidal. The blend was aged in a single oak barrel. Only 39 cases of half bottles at $100 each were made.
The wine is exquisite. A powerful and extremely concentrated wine with wave after wave of honey-sweet pleasure. It’s thick and hedonistic, a Niagara wine that should be on your bucket list to try.
Riverview gave consumers a peek at its newest wines during a tasting it dubbed Wines of Past, Present and Future recently. Wines were matched with delicious foods in a fun interactive tasting where you could taste upcoming wines and pre-order them at a discount.
Here’s a look at what’s available now and what’s coming from Riverview, only available at the winery:
Riverview Angelina’s Reserve Chardonnay 2009 ($20, 87 points) — A gorgeous wine with green apple, peaches, vanilla, toasted oak, butter and soft spices — a real deal at $20.
Riverview Angelina’s Reserve Chardonnay 2010 ($20, 88 points, 2012 release date) — Very young but showing creamy vanilla, poached pear, citrus and a lovely mineral note. It is bolder on the palate with ripe pear, apple and citrus fruit all wrapped up in toasty-creamy oak and spice.
Riverview Syrah 2010 ($30, but on pre-order until Jan. 15 for $25, 91 points) — This is Riverview’s first Syrah, all from sourced fruit, and it’s a beauty. The nose is rife in peppery-smoky notes with currants, licorice, earthy-meaty bits, toast, spice and red fruits. Very rich with a lovely blueberry note over top the smoke and cracked pepper with a fair amount of length through the finish.
Riverview Cabernet Franc Icewine 2010 ($60 for 375 Ml, 93 points) — A nose of strawberry, red currants and honey. It’s all about the jammy red fruits in the mouth, thick and unctuous, with super-sweet notes that are balanced out by moderate acidity.
Riverview Buona Notte White Icewine 2010 ($100 for 375 Ml, 94 points) — When you think about the shriveled up, botrytised (noble rot) Riesling, frozen on the vine into tiny little marble-like orbs, and the labour that goes into a single bottle of wine along with the two thirds of the wine that’s frozen Vidal grapes, you start to understand the steep price. Getting Riesling at 100% TBA is risky business. Making it into icewine? An astonishing feat. And the wine? Oh, the wine! An exotic nose of pure marmalade, the kind Grandma makes, with orange-citrus peel, minced peach and then the honey kicks in, then touches of caramel and roasted almonds. It is an extraordinary wine with extreme concentration, candied fruits, toffee and a finish that lasts and lasts. Not particularly laced with balancing acidity, but enough to tickle the palate. Stunning.
Previously reviewed:
Riverview Buona Notte 2008 ($100 for 375 Ml, 90 points) — This mostly Cabernet Sauvignon icewine was fermented and briefly aged in stainless steel before going into French oak barrels for 11 months. It’s unique on the nose with pronounced buckwheat honey, red fruits, earth and spice. Buckwheat honey comes through on the palate as well, with mature fruits, lovely texture and length on the finish. Much more balancing acid than the 2007. 100 cases made.
Riverview Nuona Notte 2009 ($100 for 375 Ml, 92 points) — A departure from the wine above, using 100% Cabernet Franc, barrel fermented and aged in three-year-old oak barrels. Only 30 cases were made. The nose shows tangy cherry-kirsch notes, raspberry fruits, violets and spiced honeycomb. It’s layered and textured on the palate with luxurious fruit compote, spice and sweet honey notes balanced by juicy acidity.
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Also tasted recently was the John Howard Cellars of Distinction Megalomaniac new Statement series of 2008 reds that were released at a future’s price of $45 each.
Howard believes that by judicious leaf thinning to maximize radiation from the sun on the grapes, even in a cooler vintage such as 2008, he can ripen Bordeaux varieties where many others can’t in Niagara. His reserve wines certainly challenge naysayers out there (guilty!) who would paint the entire vintage with the same brush. Here’s what I tasted:
Megalomaniac Statement Series Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008 (87 points) — A nose of plum, cherry, blackberry, smoke and bold spice notes. The dark fruits in the mouth are joined by spice, vibrant acidity, a slightly lean note and pretty good tannic structure.
Megalomaniac Statement Series Cabernet Merlot 2008 (88 points) — This is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s tightly wound at the moment but starting to show bright cherry and currant fruits, toast and spice. It displays good depth on the palate, rich fruits, texture, verve and smooth tannins. It should age nicely.
Megalomaniac Statement Series Merlot 2008 (89 points) — Now, this is something. A wonderful nose of black cherry, currants, mulberry, and spicy vanilla oak. It is smooth as silk on the palate and shows the acidic energy of the vintage yet still imparts rich fruits, soft tannins, balance and structure. Should age beautifully.
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And one more that deserves mention:
Vineland Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2009 ($40, winery, 92 points) — The aromas from this wonderful white jump from the glass. Bright apples, tropical fruit, cream and spice in a refreshingly pure and elegant style of Chardonnay. It’s just lovely on the palate, with broad flavours, balanced spice notes, clean fruit and racy acidity. Such wonderful vibrancy and balance from start to finish.
Enjoy!
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