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A new ‘Window’ on Niagara dining

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By Michael Lowe

Last Tuesday evening marked the official launch of Windows by Jamie Kennedy in Niagara Falls. The 80-seat restaurant, located on the 14th floor of the Sheraton on the Falls Hotel, gives diners an unobstructed panoramic view of both the American and Horseshoe Falls — and much more.

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The restaurant is Chef Jamie Kennedy’s first venture in the region, where he says the aim is “To bring terroir-based gastronomy to Niagara.” Kennedy is best known for his support of the local food movement and commitment to sustainable agriculture. The restaurant’s seasonal menu showcases a collection of fresh and simple dishes constructed from the best ingredients available.

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Chef Jamie Kennedy (all photos by Michael Lowe)

The clean, sophisticated design features see-through wine cellars filled with some of Niagara’s best wines, as well as a fine selection of international offerings chosen by respected wine columnist and author, Tony Aspler. During introductions, Aspler remarked that the list is “A dynamic wine list that will change with the seasons.”

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Tony Aspler

Media invitees tasted through a four-course dinner comprised of dishes from the spring menu. Each dish was paired with a Niagara wine to enhance the overall experience. Dinner started on a fresh note with a salad of  “Soiled Reputation Greens” with sorrel vinaigrette. The slight bitterness of the greens and the delicate citrus note in the vinaigrette matched beautifully with Niagara College Unoaked
Chardonnay 2010.

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“Soiled Reputation Greens” with Sorrel vinaigrette

A minestrone of crisp springtime vegetables and strands of tender rabbit was up next. Garnished with black walnut and herb pesto, the clean, precise flavours worked very well with the Malivoire Lady Bug Rose 2010.

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Minestrone with rabbit and black walnut/herb pesto

With appetites well primed we tuck into duck confit and roasted breast of duck served with “Schmaltz” roasted potatoes (roasted in duck fat) and sour cherry glaze. The dish simply sang when enjoyed with Cattail Creek’s Pinot Noir 2009.

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Confit & Roast Duck with Schmaltz roasted potatoes

Chamomile panna cotta with julienne rhubarb and gelee concluded the meal along with a warming cup of Amaretto-spiked “JT Tea.” Chef Kennedy, who spends most of his time at his Toronto establishments, has entrusted the day-to-day running of the kitchen to talented chef Ross Midgley.

When asked about the culinary relationship, Midgley says simply, “Jamie runs his brigade much like I do.”

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Chef Ross Midgley (left) Chef Jamie Kennedy (right)

Windows by Jamie Kennedy is poised to offer memorable dining experiences set against the majestic backdrop of the mighty Niagara. Menu prices ($5-$38) are in line with what one should expect from a top-notch restaurant, without the obvious tourist-area gouging often seen in Niagara Falls.