Niagara is well known for its Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and cool-climate red varieties and blends. But more and more we’re seeing winemakers take on the more exotic grapes and they’re starting to find a loyal following.
There is virtually nothing that won’t grow in Niagara. But making it taste good vintage after vintage is the trick.
Some of the lesser-known grapes that have found a niche include Pinot Gris, Baco Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Pinot Meunier and Semillon. I’ve heard at least one winemaker, Vineland Estate’s Brian Schmidt, has planted a vineyard to the Austrian staple Grüner Veltliner (which I can’t wait to try in four or five years).
And then there’s Viognier (see in top photo); that lovely perfumed and unique grape most often associated with France’s Rhone Valley.
It is an unlikely friend of Niagara because it’s so difficult to grow, easily infected with mildew in humid conditions, must be picked at its peak of maturity, which is late in the harvest, and is notorious for its low acids and high alcohol.
Yet some of the best wineries in Niagara feel it’s worth all the risks to produce a top-notch Viognier year-in and year-out.
Viognier is best known for its roots in the Northern Rhone appellations of Condrieu and as a powerful ally when just a tiny amount is added to many of the Rhone’s, and other region’s, top Syrahs.
The varietal’s powerful and complex aromas and flavours — from apricot, mango and tangerine to acacia, honey and guava — are appealing to lovers of bolder, more full-bodied white wines. Many consider Viognier the red wine lover’s white wine.
There are only a few Niagara wineries that produce a 100% Viognier, including Chateau des Charmes, Alvento, Creekside, Hidden Bench and Stratus. Fielding Estate Winery’s Richie Roberts (above photo) has consistently made one of the region’s most expressive Viogniers. His lush and exotic 2010 version hits Vintages shelves Saturday. It leads the pack of new releases. Here’s what to look for:
Fielding Estate Viognier 2010 ($26, 91 points) — Viognier in Niagara continues to impress me, especially the top examples such as this one from Fielding. The grapes were sourced from Niagara-on-the-Lake, picked to Roberts’ specifications. It is always the last white grape to come in for processing after being picked on Oct. 1. From there it’s sorted by hand, fermented in stainless steel and kept on the lees for three months. Such a gorgeous and intense nose of peach, apple, pear compote and smothered in creamy honey notes. It’s a ripe, juicy, layered and textural beauty in the mouth with peach, pear and hints of exotic white pepper, Christmas nutmeg-clove spice and persistence on the finish. It doesn’t show its 14% alcohol on the palate and winemaker Richie Roberts says it’s built to show well through 2014.
Jackson-Triggs Silver Series Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($18, 87 points) — A nose of fresh cut grass, grapefruit, lime, kiwi and passion fruit. Not overdone on the palate, with some tropical notes, in a fresh, lively style.
Creekside Laura’s Red 2008 ($20, 88 points) — Another Creekside red that defies the 2008 vintage. The blend for this flagship premium red is from the Queenston Road Vineyard in St. Davids. It consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and just a touch of Syrah. The nose shows savoury red fruits, ripe plum, cassis, spice and smoky cedar notes. Raspberry dominates the palate with savoury spices, toasted oak and cedar notes. The wine features a core of vibrant acidity.
Also released but not reviewed:
• Mike Weir Sparkling Brut 2009 ($25)
• Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($20)
• Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2010 ($25)
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