I just returned from the Napa Valley and aside from the many Cabernet Sauvignons tasted and retasted and then tasted again, my group was also treated to a fair amount of Cali Sauvignon Blanc.
Not Sauvingon Blanc as we traditionally think of it, but old-vine Sauvignon from low-yielding vines with a bit of Semillon sprinkled in and then barrel aged for complexity and spice.
They can’t make the austere, Kiwi style of Sauvignon Blanc in the hot Napa Valley so winemakers go for either a tropical, mid-weight style or the kind Robert Mondavi winery likes to call Fume Blanc.
For Robert Mondavi, Fume Blanc is a key wine in the portfolio primarily because the winery owns the largest block of Sauvignon Blanc vines in the famed To Kalon Vineyard.
While many would be tempted to rip out those vines planted in 1945 and replace them with Cabernet Sauvignon, where a bottle can fetch in the hundreds of dollars rather than $50, Mondavi instead chooses to make wonderful barrel-aged Fume Blanc in several tiers.
It is more closely aligned with Bordeaux, with appeal in its youth and complexity as it ages.
It is this style of Sauvignon Blanc that is gaining traction north of the border here in Niagara. There is plenty of racy, grassy, acidic Sauvignon Blancs being made to varying success in Niagara, but the ones that get my full attention are the barrel-aged wines that are blended with a touch of Semillon.
There are a few out there and more and more are starting to show up on winery shelves. One that caught my eye recently was the Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve White Meritage 2012 made by Marco Piccoli. It’s a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and the rest Semillon with 10% of the SB barrel fermented to add increased texture and complexity.
Here’s a review of the Meritage and some other “Grand Reserve” reserve wines just released.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve White Meritage 2012 ($25, winery, Wine Rack, 91 points) — A gorgeous Bordeaux white style with layers of pear, apple and citrus aromas to go with a subtle note of spice. I love the texture of this wine and fine oak spice that’s beautifully complemented by well-integrated stone fruits. A great style for Niagara.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Riesling 2012 ($19, winery, Wine Rack, 88 points) — A lime-grapefruit-lemon bomb on the nose with intense citrus fruit and some riverbed minerality. The grapefruit-lime notes on the palate are joined by a note of ginger and Mandarin orange. Juicy and ripe, but still some lively acidity.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Gewurztraminer 2012 ($20, winery, Wine Rack, 88 points) — The nose shows musk oil, grapefruit, cloves, nutmeg and citrus. It’s soft on the palate with low acid but the ripe exotic fruits, lychee and touch of honey come together nicely.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($20, winery, Wine Rack, 87 points) — This is JT’s version of New Zealand-style SB with grass, fresh herbs, kiwi and citrus fruit on the nose. There is plenty of citrus and some tropical notes on the palette to with cut grass and garden herbs all made in a refreshing style.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 ($25, LCBO, winery, Wine Rack, 89 points) — A pretty nose of bramble fruit, wild raspberry, cherry, black currants, nutmeg and vanilla. I love the silky feel on the palate with a balanced approach to the rich fruits and spices.
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz 2011 ($25, winery, Wine Rack, 90 points) — Winemaker Marco Piccoli excels with this variety he likes to craft in a Rhone style. The nose shows barnyard, earth, roasted meats, blackberries, currants, pepper and spice. It’s dark and savoury in the mouth with plush tannins, dark fruits, loam and delicious spice. Can age this beauty for 3-5 years.
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