It’s a big, juicy wine release at Vintages this Saturday and it features some top Niagara bottlings spread across a variety of styles and price points.
You don’t want to miss the top Chardonnay (in my opinion) from Vineland’s Tawse Winery. The Robyn’s Block is the finest example of terroir-driven wines at the estate and the 2010 is a real beauty. Also coming into its own is the Le Clos Vineyard Pinot 2011, now with a bit of age.
There are some other treats for fans of Ontario wine, plus I’ve included a selection of international wines I’ve reviewed for various wine magazines recently.
Tawse Estate Robyn’s Block Chardonnay 2010 ($46, 93 points) — Organic and biodynamic certified, this is the star of the show in the 2010 vintage at Tawse, a tour de force and a shining beacon for terroir-driven Chardonnay. It’s fresh and clean on the nose with a stream of minerality, soft green apple, lemon-citrus zest and such elegant spices in the background. On the palate, oh my! An opulent, vivacious wine with tremendous flavours of quince, toffee-oak spices and mineral flavours that are persistent yet beautifully elegant and build in intensity in the mouth. It’s lavish and weighty but lifted by firm acidity through a long, long finish.
Le Clos Jordanne Les Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 ($45, 91 points) — The main Le Clos vineyard tends to be warmer and riper with slightly higher alcohol (typically 13.5% vs. 13%) so winemaker Sebastien Jacquey uses a bit more (35%) new French oak for roundness. The nose displays intense red fruits, violets, sweet oak and wet earth, spice and subtle cassis and pipe tobacco. The highly extracted fruit on the palate shows a fatter, rounder style of Pinot than, say, the Claystone, with tannic structure and a more muscular feel through the finish.
13th Street Cuvee 13 Sparkling Brut Rose ($25, 90 points) — There is a lot going on in this nice non-vintage bubbly. Made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, the nose oozes cherry, raspberry, cranberry and pomegranate with a lovely sage-citrus-brioche afterglow. It’s bold and zippy on the palate with a steady, energetic mousse that rides along a racy vein of acidity.
Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2011 ($20, 88 points) — The nose on this 100% French-oak aged Merlot displays bright raspberry-cherry fruit and soft red plums, currants and spice. This is a mellow Merlot with lovely red fruit flavours and sweet oak notes.
Lakeview Cellars Syrah Reserve 2010, Niagara ($30, 90 points) — Youthful and tight with plum, cherry-raspberry fruit, cocoa and black pepper notes on the nose. This is a robust and rich Syrah on the palate with ripe red fruits, savoury spices and good tannic structure.
Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Meritage 2011 ($17, 88 points) — This red blend consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot shows raspberry, spice, cassis and earthy bits on the nose. It holds the fruit quite well on the palate and the structure is built around a bed of firm tannins.
Tawse Gamay Noir 2012 ($19, 89 points) — This second vintage of Gamay from Tawse is sourced from hand-harvested fruit from select vineyards in Niagara. The nose shows pure and ripe cherries, strawberries, currants and subtle spice notes. It’s bright and cheery on the palate with lovely red fruits, a hint of plum, licorice, spice and herbs, smooth tannins and good acidity. Great food wine to serve with charcuterie, roasted pork belly or barbecued pork tenderloin.
Other Niagara wines released Saturday but not reviewed:
• Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 ($22)
• Featherstone Four Feathers 2011 ($15)
• Frogpond Farm Organic Chambourcin 2010 ($14)
• Fielding Estate Rose 2013 ($16)
• Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose 2012 ($13)
A pretty nice rose from New Zealand released Saturday:
Kim Crawford Pansy! Rose 2013 ($18, 89 points) — This Merlot-Malbec blend is the first rose in the Kim Crawford portfolio from Hawkes Bay in New Zealand. The name comes from the bright colours found in pansy flowers. The nose shows a basket of fresh raspberries, cherries and tropical fruits that jump from the glass. It’s ripe and zesty in the mouth with delicious red fruits. Perfect summer sipper.
Some international wines I’ve tasted recently and enjoyed:
Australia
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2006, Hunter Valley ($20, Vintages, 91 points) — Hunter Valley Semillon is one of the world’s most unique and exciting wines when released with some bottle age like the McWilliam’s. Classic aromas of smoke, lanolin, grapefruit, cut straw and lemon evolve even as you swirl the glass. The palate shows refreshing Meyer lemon, lime and passionfruit in a perfectly dry, yet brilliantly vibrant, style.
Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz, Barossa 2011 ($22, Vintages, 93 points) — The fruit for this outstanding Shiraz is culled from gnarly, ancient vines, many over a hundred years old, in the heart of the Barossa. What a treat this is with mind-blowing aromas of persistent blackberry, blueberry pie, wild raspberry, spicy black peppercorns, and cocoa. Flavours of ripe raspberry and pepper lead the charge on the palate with bramble, tar, chocolate, and fine tannins rounding out the profile.
France
Maison Roche de Bellene Rully les Cloux 2011, Burgundy ($32, Vintages, 93 points) — I almost don’t want to tell you about this pretty and extraordinary find from Rully. It is that good and I want to buy it all for myself. Such a nose of fresh-cut acacia and honeysuckle with flint, lemon, apple and hints of toasted oak. It is delicate and polished on the palate with crisp, riverbed minerality that drives the citrus, apple pie and floral notes.
Herve Azo Chablis 2011, Chablis ($20, Vintages, 89 points) — A well-priced Chablis from an excellent producer that shows juicy grapefruit, green apple, sea breeze, crushed oyster shells and flinty-smoky minerality on the nose. I love the texture of this bone-dry Chardonnay and the citrus-gunflint flavours that wash over the palate.
Herve Azo Bourgogne 2011, Burgundy ($17, Vintages, 91 points) — The vineyards for this Chardonnay lie just beyond the designated boundaries of Chablis, but make no mistake, the only thing about this wine that isn’t Chablis is the price. The nose shows pure citrus, wet stone and flint. It has lovely texture in the mouth with searing acidity driven by fresh grapefruit and, lemon and apple flavours. Truly exciting at this price.
Jean-Marc Brocard Montmains Chablis 2011, Chablis ($30, Vintages, 91 points) — Quite rich and fruit-laden for a Chablis but the chalky/stoney minerality aromas emerge brilliantly from the lemon-grapefruit and green apple notes. Some weight on the palate adds texture but doesn’t stray too far from the roots of the appellation with lovely chalk and crushed stones coursing through the veins of this modern style Burgundy.
Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis Montmains 2011, Chablis ($29, Vintages, 90 points) — The nose shows soft mineral notes with bright citrus, flowers and sea breeze. It’s made in an austere style with bright acidity that lifts the lemon and lime flavours. A delicious Chablis that screams for oysters on the half shell.
Domaine Jean Hauller Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg 2011, Alsace ($20, Vintages 91 points) — This is a particularly good bargain considering it’s a grand cru with a not-so-grand price tag. It’s pure and fresh on the nose with pineapple, citrus and peach blossom aromas. On the palate look for lovely texture to go peachy-citrus fruit and a touch of smoke and minerality through the finish. Very well balanced.
Patrick Lesec Pierres Dorees Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010, Rhone, France ($50, Vintages, 93 points) — The blend for this CNdP is 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre with neutral oak treatment for aging. The nose is beautiful with kirsch, black currants, violets, fruitcake and undergrowth. It shows energy and verve on the palate with rich black cherry and darker fruits, pepper and subtle spices that are all nicely balanced and smooth through a long finish. Drink now or hold five plus years.
Vieux Clocher Symphonie des Galets Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009, Rhone, France ($31, Vintages, 90 points) — A plucky CNdP with a nose of rose petals, grilled meat, blueberry, black currants, tobacco and incense notes. It’s bright and fresh on the palate with depth of flavour, solid tannins and fairly bright acidity that will serve it well with a few years in the cellar.
Domaine Lecomte Quincy 2011, Loire Valley, France ($15, LCBO, 87 points) — Quincy, located south of Sancerre, is a relatively unheralded region in the Loire that provides a diverging array of Sauvingnon Blancs. This one is fairly good considering the price. The nose shows acacia flowers, elderberry, honeysuckle, fresh herbs and grapefruit-citrus notes. It’s bright on the palate with interesting fruit and herb notes and a nice citrus zing through the finish. Try with seafood or a delicately prepared chicken dish.
Domaine Chenevieres Les Grandes Vignes Chablis, Chablis, France ($23, Vintages, 88 points) — A pretty Chablis with crushed stone, apple, substantial citrus and apple aromas. It shows good vibrancy on the palate with ripe apples, peaches, quince and smoky-flinty minerality.
Italy
Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2009, Chianti ($25, Vintages, 90 points) — Vintage to vintage, one of my favourite Chiantis. A classic nose of savoury cherry, leafy tobacco, vanilla, cassis, spice and bramble bush. This is delicious on the palate with juicy red fruits, herbs, tar and spice delivered on bed of smooth and fine tannins. Drink now or hold for further development.
Ruffino Chianti Classico Azino 2011 ($18, Vintages, 88 points) — A nose of cherry, wildberry, currants and spice. A good little food wine with bright acidity, red berries, a touch of licorice and vanilla with soft tannins.
Spain
Lustau Peninsula Solera Reserva Palo Cortado Sherry, Jerez ($18 for 375 ml, Vintages, 93 points) — One of the most interesting Sherries I have encountered made in a style that falls between Amontillado and Oloroso. The nose shows complex notes of figs, toasted almonds, buiscuit, sweet wild flowers, and nougat. It is perfectly dry on the palate and grows in intensity as the crushed, roasted filberts and hints of citrus zest open up on the palate.
Australia
D’Arenberg The Foot Bolt Shiraz 2010, McLaren Vale ($24, Vintages, 92 points) — A full-bodied and robust Shiraz with aromas of grilled meat slathered in black peppercorns, cassis, blackberries, wet earth and rich, savoury spices. This is quintessential Aussie Shiraz on the palate with waves of thick dark fruits, spice, cocoa and licorice all served up on a bed of fine tannins. It’s best to hold this for a while in the cellar.
Argentina
Bodega Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Mendoza ($11, Vintages, 87 points) — From the “Varietal Collection” of Norton’s substantial holdings comes this nice little affordable quaffer. The nose shows blackberry, cherry, plum and light, integrated spices. It’s soft and generous on the palate with cassis and black cherry flavours, subtle smoke and tar all leading to a smooth finish.
Portugal
Quinta das Marias Encruzado 2011, Dao, Portugal ($17, Vintages, 92 points) — Encruzado is an indigenous white grape from the Dao region of Portugal. It’s made in the old school style and quite backward with aromas of lemon oil, almond paste, pear, white flowers and citrus that seem poised to evolve over time. On the palate look for creamy pear and nutty flavours with lemony freshness. Built to age.
California
Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay 2011, Sonoma Coast, California ($27, Vintages, 89 points) — The Russian River Valley provides a cooling effect that gives this Chardonnay its freshness. The nose shows pear, hazelnuts, toasted oak spices, apple and a squirt of lemon. There is fairly bright acidity in the mouth with poached pear, butter cream, vanilla and nutty notes delivered through a clean finish.
Germany
Monchhof Robert Eymael Mosel Slate Riesling Spatlese 2011, Mosel, Germany ($24, 91 points) — Made with a whopping 90 g/l of residual sugar, there is no doubt that this is a semi-sweet Riesling but the vibrant acidity cuts through the sweetness admirably. The nose shows peach, apple, grapefruit, lime and slate minerality. It is gorgeous and textured on the palate with tangerine, honey, sweet peach and zingy lime notes.
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