By Mike Lowe
The heart of the Niagara Falls tourist area, as a destination for local diners, often gets a bad rap but there are some places that deserve recognition. The Terrapin Grille is one of those places. We recently dropped by Terrapin Grille for dinner — here’s the lowdown.
Terrapin Grille is located on the mezzanine level of the Marriott Fallsview. Crisp, white linen dresses the tables and dark wood accents add a touch of warmth (top photo) to the space, which boasts one of the best views of the Horseshoe Falls and the upper Niagara River.
I became interested in the restaurant after meeting Executive Chef Ron Kneabone at the Niagara Food and Wine Expo. The passion for his craft was clearly evident, especially in the dish he presented at the show.
Dinner began with grilled calamari (left photo) and duck terrine (left). The grilled calamari, a nice change from the all-too-common deep fried version (you can get that too), had been “flashed” on a very hot grill to perfect doneness. Zesty olive tapenade adds a vibrant, Mediterranean flair and grilled lemon, when squeezed over the calamari rings, lightens the whole dish.
Foie gras lends a silky texture to the duck terrine, which is punctuated with bits of duck confit. The terrine, when spread on slices of baguette with a touch of the cranberry compote, proves a winning match with a glass of Inniskillin Pinot Noir.
Our main dishes follow the theme established by the appetizers — simple presentations of great food, expertly seasoned and cooked correctly. Mediterranean style baked cod (left) is a real winner. My wife is, by now, used to me asking for a taste from her plate. This time, though, I think she may have become a little annoyed after my third request. The dish was just that good.
I am equally satisfied with the generous chop of Ontario pork loin. Served on a bed of garlic-mashed potato accompanied with the same perfectly cooked seasonal vegetable as the cod, the dish is hearty enough to satiate the hungriest of diners. What is notable about the food at Terrapin Grille is that it is not overly fussed with sporting myriad strange ingredients or gussied up presentations.
Chef Kneabone drops by our table to check on us. He is a chef who really cares about what goes on the plate and is just as comfortable engaging in conversation with diners as he is in the kitchen. He is proud of the fact that almost everything is prepared from scratch — except the bread — and even offers his recipes for any dish that we may want to replicate at home.
A trio of dessert offerings (left) arrives amid groans and lamentations about not being able to eat another bite. Forks in hand, we descend on the dish like a couple of sweet-toothed, or should I say “beaked” vultures. Every homemade bite is a delight. In particular, an amazing twist on strawberry coulis laced with cinnamon, which is one idea I will borrow without shame.
There you have it.
There are places in the heart of “the Falls” that warrant a visit. Sure, parking can be a challenge but there is street parking within one block of the restaurant. Expect to pay a bit more for the view but the food and service are worth it. Add to that a wine list that heavily favours Niagara and you have a combination any Niagara resident should be proud of.
Terrapin Grille (in the Marriott Fallsview)
6740 Fallsview Boulevard,
Niagara Falls, ON
905- 357- 7300
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