Herbert Konzelmann is a fourth generation wine-maker and the first in the family to leave Germany in search of the next perfect spot to grow grapes.
In 1984, he discovered one of the prettiest properties in Niagara, along the shores of Lake Ontario in Niagara-on-the- Lake, a spot that reminded him of Alsace, France. Not because of the scenery, but due to the microclimate, which is similar to Alsace with a wonderful balance of sun, soil, airflow and moisture conditions ideal for making clean, aromatic, fruity wines.
It was a long way from Stuttgart, Germany, where Friedrich Konzelmann, Herbert’s great-grandfather, first established a winery in 1893. But with land running out in German wine country, Herbert made the decision to take the family’s wine roots to the New World. The site for Konzelmann’s Niagara jewel, along Lakeshore in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is gorgeous. From the loft you get stunning views overlooking the vineyards and a shimmering Lake Ontario. It’s no wonder so many young couples chose this winery site to exchange wedding vows.
Konzelmann was officially the seventh winery to open its doors in Ontario, and now is one of over 150. Currently, the sixth generation of the Konzelmann legacy — Herbert’s grandson, Fabian Reis (with Herbert, left) — has taken a leading role in the family business. Production includes over 30 wines with a total output of 500,000 bottles per year, and they have received hundreds of awards and accolades during their time in Canada.
But it has always been Herbert’s beloved Rieslings that represent what Konzelmann does best, and his older bottles are proving to be long-lived.
As part of a series, called #OldNiagara, we have been exploring older bottles of (mostly) Niagara wines to see how they have stood the test of time. We have looked at Marynissen Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 31 1991 and Stoney Ridge Late Harvest Riesling 1998 and today, in Part III, we dive into a bottle of Konzelmann Johannisberg Riesling 1990 “Demi Sec” Estate Bottled.
Herbert Konzelmann can’t remember a lot about how this wine was made other than conditions for the 1990 growing season were “ordinary.” He seems to remember this particular wine being selected the best Riesling in a competition in 1992.
The last time he opened a bottle was five years ago and “it was holding up very well. It had the petrol smell and was well balanced.”
The label stated that this Riesling was medium-sweet with a sugar code of 2 on the label (which I wish all Niagara Riesling producers would include on their labels today).
My bottle was well sealed and looked in perfect condition with high ullage and no seepage. The cork came out easily with just a small crack at the bottom of the cork that was removed without much effort. Inspecting the cork I discovered pretty “wine diamonds” (or harmless tartrate crystals that sometimes accumulate in the bottom of older bottles or on the underside of corks, which are naturally occurring and not a fault) had imbedded in the crevices of the cork. They were bright white and sparkled in the sunlight.
The Riesling poured a medium gold colour and had a promising nose of peach preserve, honey, dried citrus fruit and ocean breeze. On the palate, it was showing its age and that petrol note that Herbert Konzelmann tasted five years ago was turning more to a perfumy-musk taste. The fruit was dropping quickly, but jammy marmalade, peach puree and caramel notes on a textural background was still evident on the palate. Interestingly, a bitter note on the finish and those musky flavours were less pervasive on the second day of tasting this wine.
This Riesling was definitely past its golden years (understandably!) but still was a treat to taste a Niagara Riesling 25 years after it was made.
Next up in the series #OldNiagara: A late harvest Riesling from Vineland Estates.
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