The mere name “Black Ball” is borne out of failure, failure time and time again, that even with success the name has stuck.
Pearl Morissette’s quirky Cuvee Black Ball Riesling made by Francois Morissette (below) has a history of failing VQA standards with this wine. The 2010 version failed four times, not lab tests, but tasting panel tests. He decided to not even try with the 2011 version, selling the wine without difficulty and without the the VQA stamp of approval. I wrote about the trials and tribulations of the Black Ball Riesling here in May of 2014.
The 2012 Black Ball, by the way, failed three times. But then something weird happened.
The 2013 version of the same wine passed the VQA panel on the first try and heads up the list of Niagara wines being released on Saturday (it should be noted that there are only 180 bottles for sale and only at flagship stores). No reason was given for the sudden change in the decision and the winery’s ambassador Svetlana Atcheva maintains the 2013 was made pretty much the same as the others.
- Wild fermented in 1,000-litre foudres from Alsace (which can take up to six months for full fermentation)
- Fermented completely dry, or close (under 2 grams/litre)
- Full malo
- Unfiltered, unfined
- Aged on the lees for six months
- Minimal sulphur, but unlike the 2013 Gamay, there is some added (the Gamay 2013, alas, failed VQA twice before finally getting a passing grade, but more on that in a later post).
I understand the VQA’s reluctance to pass the Black Ball. I have tasted most vintages of this wine and all have a distinct note of reduction on the nose because the wine is made in an oxidative environment.
It does mellow with time both in the bottle and in the glass and turns to more lime, floral and grapefruit notes. Being nearly perfectly dry, it tastes very different than most Niagara Rieslings (generally made between 9-35 grams/litre) with a steely, firm constitution that needs time to relax and mellow out, a bit of time to feed on itself. These are Rieslings that are sold too early and need time to reach their potential and it is recommended you buy and hold for a few years.
Here’s my review of the 13 Black Ball as well as some other Niagara wines included in the Saturday Vintages release.
Pearl Morissette Cuvee Black Ball Riesling 2013 ($32, Flagship stores, 92 points) — Yes, there is a reductive note on the nose that seems to dissipate with time in the glass and bottle, but also gorgeous lime, grapefruit, apple skin and slate minerality. It is taut, young and racy on the palate with nervy acidity and energy. The texture is profound and the flavours open up to intense lime and grapefruit pulp, freshening stony minerality, dried apple and an intensity that builds through the finish. This is a Riesling that won’t appeal to everyone, but should be experienced if only to show that this variety isn’t always cut from the same mould.
Fielding Viognier 2013 ($26, 90 points) — Winemaker Richie Roberts does a nice job with this grape he sources from the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. He lets the skins soak briefly, presses it to tank and applies barrel fermentation to about 15% of the grapes. He finished the 2013 version with less than 5 grams/litre of residual sugar. It has a floral nose with notes of honeydew melon, tangerine, peach and subtle spice. I love the texture of this wine that amplifies the pure fruit flavours of melon, peach, apricot and grilled pineapple. It’s lush but still fresh and clean through the finish. Nice job here.
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2014 ($17, 88 points) — Whole-cluster pressed juice from the estate’s 20 Mile Bench vineyards, this is a delicious and mouth-watering Riesling with a bright and expressive nose of citrus, tangerine and grapefruit. Made slightly off-dry with firm, balancing acidity and a friendly play between sweet-tart citrus and lime flavours. Bring on summer!
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Merlot 2012 ($25, 90 points) — Concentrated and rich black cherry, oak spices, earth and complex dark fruit nuances on the nose. It’s generous on the palate with dominant cherry fruit, firm tannins, well structured and loaded with an mélange of spices that are balanced through the long finish.
And other Niagara wines being released but not reviewed:
• Small Talk Vineyards Recap Syrah 2012 ($25)
• Featherstone Rose 2014 ($15)
• Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose 2014 ($16)
• Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2013 ($17)
• Rockway Vineyards Late Harvest Vidal 2013 ($16 for 500 ml)
• Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2013 ($20)
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