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Sunday drive in Niagara: Michael Lowe eats and drinks his way along the Wine Route

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By Michael Lowe

Winter in Niagara is winding down but the curve into spring looks like it may be a long and winding road. So why not shrug it off with a Sunday drive the wine route.

Last week I visited a few Niagara-on-the-Lake wineries to sample some of their latest wines and grab a bite to eat while en route.

Here’s the lowdown.

Coyotes Run Estate Winery is known for its distinctive styles of Pinot Noir (top photo). The property boasts two types of soil (below photo). Black clay loam soil and the much older red clay loam impart very different characteristics to the wines. The 2012 Red Paw Pinot ($24.95) expresses a bright, fruit-forward style that drinks fairly well in its youth while the 2012 Black Paw Pinot ($32.95) shows a deeper, more brooding style which will show even more elegance over time.

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For more detailed notes and scores read Rick VanSickle’s report here.

Another interesting side-by-side tasting includes the 2012 Red Paw Syrah ($24.95) and the 2010 Rare Vintage Syrah ($32.95). Both are very well made wines and represent good value.

My next stop was at Colaneri Estate Winery where Sommelier Michael Standen (below photo) walked me through a stunning lineup of reds.

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Favourites from the tasting include:

2010 Virtuoso Pinot Noir ($24.95, winery, 4 Stars) – Red berry and cherry at the forefront with smoky notes and light vanilla on the finish.

2010 Visione Syrah ($27.95, 4 Stars) – Distinctive varietal character showing nice peppery notes behind the blackberry, black cherry and anise.

2012 Pensieri Merlot ($29.95, 4 1/2 Stars) – A robust Merlot with plenty of dark berry fruit and some smokiness to mask the high alcohol (14.9%). Beautifully integrated oak and rich fruit create a lengthy finish.

2012 Unita Cabernet Franc ($25.00, 4 1/2 Stars) – A perennial favourite of mine, this Franc is a big, bold one. Currants, dark cherries, cigar box, spice with an earthy backdrop combine to create a rich, complex wine.

After two winery stops I’ve got food on my mind but, as always, I have a plan. During the winter months Chef Adam Hynam-Smith, of El Gastronomo Vagabundo gourmet food truck, dishes out some spectacular eats from the kitchen at Oast House Brewers. The affable Aussie may have gained a following for his bold flavours and use of lesser known, international ingredients but he also nails it when it comes to comfort food. A recent example from a previous visit is the brined and fried chicken with creamy, cheesy grits (below photo).

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The crisp coating and moist, perfectly seasoned chicken pairs beautifully with the grits, which have just a dash of homemade hot sauce added for punch. For a real taste sensation drizzle the chicken with some of that hot sauce and the sweet wort syrup made from the wort pulled from the beer-making process.

On this particular Sunday fish and chips is on the menu making my decision a no-brainer. Hynam-Smith creates a malty batter from the Oast House Russian Imperial Stout which, when fried, yields a thin, dark, crunchy crust. His use of B.C. snapper may be a deviation from more traditional catches but the result is outstanding (below photo). Add a handful of house-cut, three-times-cooked fries and it’s a dish worth writing about (chuckle). Hynam-Smith has recently put the wraps on a new cookbook. Click here for ordering info.

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Back on the road after lunch we drop in at Cattail Creek Estate Winery to see what’s new. What I like about this winery is they have something to suit a wide variety of tastes. From crisp, refreshing whites to lip-smacking rose to full on reds, they can deliver. Here are some highlights from our visit.

Estate Series “Simply Stainless” Chardonnay 2013 ($16.95, 4 stars) – Apple, pear and citrus wrapped up in mouthwatering acidity. A very food-friendly chard that is also just plain good on its own.

Estate Series Serendipity Rose 2013 ($14.95, 3 1/2 stars) – Fresh, fragrant aromas of cherry, raspberry and a bit of melon that follow on the palate. A dry rose which will pair with any poultry dish or chili-rubbed, grilled shrimp.

Estate Series Gamay Noir 2013 ($16.95, 3 1/2 + stars) – Red currant and cherry notes with a hint of smoked meat. Lightly chilled, this wine will go with almost anything hot off the grill – pizza, burgers or salmon.

Small Lot Series Cabernet Franc 2012 ($29.95, 4 stars) – Lots of black cherry/raspberry on the nose and palate with a whisper of smoke and light tobacco notes. Pair with roast lamb, beef or game meats or hearty stews.