Canada is a vast country with only a smattering (in the big scheme of things) of land devoted to crafting fine VQA-quality wine.
Recently tasting through the wines from three different wineries representing three distinct regions — Pelee Island, the Okanagan Valley and Niagara — you get an appreciation for those differences and learn what does best where.
Here are three wines, from three regions, from three different wineries that I can recommend from recent tastings.
Flat Rock Cellars (Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara)
Flat Rock Cellars was founded in 1999 on a beautiful piece of the Niagara Escarpment known as the Jordan Bench. The winery and tasting room is perched on a gently rolling slope studded with vines. The winery building is a quirky, glass-encased, hexagonal structure that is a distinct landmark as you approach the building and stunning views once in the building.
President of Flat Rock, Ed Madronich, has never strayed from his belief that it is Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that grows the best in the cool climate of Niagara. So it’s no surprise that those three varietals shape the majority of the portfolio. But expect the unexpected from Flat Rock, such as the quirky “Twisted” wines.
Here are three wines I can recommend.
Flat Rock Cellars Pink Twisted 2014 ($17, released April 18, 90 points) — What a crazy concept, as are all the Twisted concoctions dreamed up by the inventive minds at Flat Rock. I’ll let winemaker Jay Johnston describe how this blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Riesling came together.
“The Pinot Noir was skin fermented, as was the Syrah, while the addition of an aromatic white lifted the overall ‘punch’ on the nose. The Syrah was aged in oak for a few months and a portion of the Pinot Noir was, as well.”
The wine was conceived from Flat Rock “blending sessions” to remove any preconceived notions of what a wine should be and to look purely at the result of minor adjustments to the blend.
“We ask ourselves ‘what does this wine need’ to make it harmonious rather than say ‘I would never do that,’ ” says Johnston. “We wanted the balance of the slightly off-dry Riesling to work with the structure and tannin from the skin fermented reds.”
Crazy as it sounds, it does work. It has a complex nose of lovely apple, spice, citrus, pear and light red fruits such as cherry and raspberry. You can feel light tannins on the palate and it brims with flavours of red fruits, apple and bramble with a touch of sweetness to go with good structure and a juicy finish. Is it a red? A white? I don’t know, it’s kind of twisted, but in a good way. Serve it chilled on warm summer’s day for both red and white fans. This is that happy middle ground.
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2014 ($17, released April 4, 88 points) — Whole-cluster pressed juice from the estate’s 20 Mile Bench vineyards, this is a delicious and mouth-watering Riesling with a bright and expressive nose of citrus, tangerine and grapefruit. Made slightly off-dry with firm, balancing acidity and a friendly play between sweet-tart citrus and lime flavours. Bring on summer!
Flat Rock Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2012 ($25, released April 18, 91 points) — Rusty Shed represents an expression of the best parcels of Chardonnay from the best barrels made from estate fruit. This is robust and generous on the nose with notes of poached pear, baked apple, lemon, mineral and toasted vanilla spice. It has lovely texture on the palate to go with apple, brioche, pear, smoke and a pure vein of minerality. It’s rich, no doubt, but maintains finesse and elegance through the finish.
Township 7 Vineyards and Winery (Okanagan)
Township 7, founded in 2000, has two wineries in B.C., one situated in the scenic Fraser Valley and the other on the picturesque Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley.
The Vancouver winery is located in the south Langley countryside in a quaint building reminiscent of the many riding stables in the neighbourhood.
The Langley location is primarily used to produce traditional method sparkling wines and dry rosé wines from estate fruit. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines at the south Langley 5-acre property were planted in the spring of 2000 and the winery opened for business in July of 2001.
In the fall of 2003, a second vineyard property was purchased on the Naramata Bench. The Okanagan wine shop is surrounded by 7 acres of vines on the picturesque Naramata Bench with views of both Lake Okanagan and Skaha Lake. The majority of Township 7 wines are crafted there.
Two acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer vines were planted on the Okanagan property in the spring of 2004, and additional Merlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot vines planted in 2005. The combined Naramata winery and tasting room was completed and opened in the summer of 2004.
Here are three wines I can recommend:
Township 7 Cabernet Sauvignon Blue Terrace Vineyard 2012 ($27, B.C. and Alberta only, 91 points) — Sourced from fruit grown in the Black Sage Bench vineyard from the classic 2012 vintage in the Okanagan Valley, the nose shows rich cherry, mulled plums, anise, currants, saddle leather and layers of oak spice. It’s juicy on the palate with rich red fruits, firm tannic structure and lovely toasted baking spices all balanced out by a firm beam of acidity. One to hold for 5-10 years.
Township 7 Cabernet Franc Rock Pocket Vineyard 2012 ($31, wine club, winery, 92 points) — A robust, ripe Cabernet Franc from the estate’s North Bench in Oliver on the Black Sage Bench. It’s a robust and ripe CF with a thrilling nose of deep, rich blackberry, blueberry, roasted coffee bean, nutmeg, bramble and baking spices. It’s thick and juicy on the palate with a combination of red and dark fruits, spice, vanilla and silky tannins though a smooth finish. Delicious wine.
Township 7 Blanc 2013 ($20, B.C., Alberta, winery, 88 points) — A blend of Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris from the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley, the nose shows tangerine, peach, apple skin, melon and lemon zest. It’s made in an off-dry style with spicy peach, citrus and lime flavours on the palate. Serve with spicy Asian cuisine.
Pelee Island Winery (Lake Erie)
Sitting 25 km off the mainland on Lake Erie, Pelee Island lies at Canada’s most southerly point, allowing for the longest growing season of all the winemaking regions in Canada.
Pelee Island is the site of Canada’s first commercial winery, VinVilla, which began operation in 1866. The most common varieties grown in this Ontario appellation are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The Pelee Island Winery farms 550 acres of estate vineyards, which supports a large portfolio of wines through several tiers. Here are three wines I can recommend.
Pelee Island Pinot Noir Reserve 2013 ($16, 88 points) — A very nice Pinot with a nose of dark cherry, lavender, earth, plums and spice notes. It’s silky smooth on the palate with rich, ripe red fruits, plums and earthy-spice notes all bolstered by freshening acidity.
Pelee Island Baco Noir Reserve 2013 ($15, 87 points) — Pelee Island blends about 15% Cabernet Sauvingon into the Baco to give it a bit more structure. It has a smoky nose of red fruits, earth, anise, cherry and vanilla and roasted coffee bean. The cherry-raspberry fruit dominates on the palate and is bolstered by notes of licorice, spice and cocoa.
Pelee Island Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($15, 87 points) — The nose reveals plums, blackeberries, toasty vanilla, tobacco and spice. It’s a lean style of Cabernet with lovely cherry and blackberry fruit with oak spices and good acidity.
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