Winona’s Leaning Post Winery has finally released its Merlot from the 2012 vintage. As they say, some things are worth waiting for … and this is one of those things.
It a fairly big red with 20 months aging in oak from a warm vintage but gives us a glimpse into why so many are saddened by the loss of so many Merlot vines in Niagara after two back-to-back horrible winters.
I dropped in at Leaning Post recently to taste two new releases. I’m also including reviews of a new icewine from Chateau des Charmes, a couple of upcoming wines, including a tasty sparkling icewine, from Inniskillin, and three new fall wines from B.C.’s JoieFarm.
Leaning Post Merlot 2012 ($42, 91 points) — No shrinking violet here, a full-on Merlot that spent 20 months in oak barrels. It’s still tight, but reveals black cherry, cassis and bramble with gorgeous oak spices on the nose. It’s thick and appropriately structured with a red fruit broth that adds cassis, earth and spice. It has ripe tannins and plenty of length through the finish. Cellar 5-10 years.
Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2014 ($22, 89 points) — This is the unoaked version of Chardonnay from Leaning Post’s focused portfolio. The fruit is wild fermented in neutral oak and then transferred to stainless steel and undergoes partial malo. The nose shows pure pear, bright apple and a whiff of citrus. It’s bright and has a wonderful creamy texture on the palate with green apple and citrus fruit with good acid lift.
Chateau des Charmes
Chateau des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014 ($26 for 200 mL, Vintages, winery, CdC boutique stores, 92 points) — A nose of peach compote, honey, tangerine and citrus. It’s thick, unctuous and luxurious on the palate with velvety texture that shows off the ripe peach, honeycomb and apricot flavours. A very well made icewine with a whopping 280 g/l of residual sugar that finds balance from the bright acidity.
Inniskillin
Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal 2014 ($80 for 375 mL, Vintages Nov. 28, 94 points) — What a sensational treat from winemaker Bruce Nicholson. Sparkling icewine is extremely difficult to make with few wineries attempting the style, but Nicholson has perfected it. The nose is a gorgeous mélange of orange marmalade, honeycomb, peach and mango. It has a rousing mousse on the palate to go with sweet, compoted fruits, fresh and delicate notes of pineapple, tangerine and peach and a luxurious texture that’s accentuated by the tiny bubbles that tickle the palate through the finish. A rich, exotic treat that is well worth the high price.
Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 ($30, Vintages Nov. 28, 91 points) — This single-vineyard Pinot from the Four Mile Creek sub appellation shows an expressive nose of black cherry, raspberry, violets, leather and spice. It’s a gorgeous Pinot from Niagara-on-the-Lake with cranberry, cherry, earth, bramble and dark chocolate on the palate to go with fine tannins through a long finish.
B.C.’s JoieFarm
JoieFarm Pinot Noir 2013 ($24, 88 points) — The 2013 vintage wasn’t kind to Pinot Noir in the Okanagan Valley with a couple of rainy, hot weeks that came right at harvest. The combination of rain and heat meant swelling of the grapes and rampant bunch rot in the vineyard. What was saved from the vintage meant reduced yields and JoieFarm had to skip its top Reserve tier for Pinot in 2013. This turned out nicely, with a nose of cherries, violets, bramble, savoury spice and a touch of cassis. It’s fresh and lively on the palate with earthy red fruits, bramble, lovely texture and verve. A wonderful Pinot for the harvest dinner table.
JoieFarm PTG 2013 ($24, 89 points) — PTG, or Pass-Tout-Grains, is JoieFarm’s version of the great Burgundian wine tradition that combines Pinot Noir and Gamay. I’ve always loved the nose on this wine; it’s like walking in a mountain meadow with those wild herbs blowing freely on the breeze. It also shows lovely cherry, raspberry, pepper and spice rack. It’s quite dry on the palate with savoury and meaty red fruits, spice and uplifting acidity.
JoieFarm Gamay 2013 ($24, 89 points) — This has a bright, joyous nose of black cherry, plums, savoury herbs, raspberry and bramble. There is interesting depth to this Gamay with cherry, yes, but also some spicy/peppery notes and structural tannins.
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