You wouldn’t know by looking at him that Richie Roberts, winemaker at the Beamsville Bench winery Fielding Estate, is a die-hard Toronto Maple Leafs fan. Otherwise, why would he be smiling all the time? Recent fortunes aside, the Leafs are not exactly smile-inducing and haven’t been for quite some time.
Fact is, Roberts is that kind of a person; upbeat, always bully on the next vintage, comfortable in his own skin and a champion for Niagara wines. In short, a fun guy to be around (and taste with).
It doesn’t hurt that the wines from Fielding Estate are always well-made and hold true to a focused and varied portfolio that best express Beamsville Bench varieties for the estate wines and a well-sourced collection of wines from key vineyards elsewhere in the region.
The Fielding team, led by Curtis (yet another die-hard Leafs fan) and Heidi Fielding, has nailed down the best varietals for the vineyards that surround the estate and their Tufford Road vineyard and leave the rest for Roberts, now in his eighth year as winemaker, to source. Most impressive is the depth and quality of the portfolio, from entry-level wines to the very top wine, aptly named Chosen Few, and made only when Mother Nature deems it possible (which has been twice now in eight years).
Roberts and the Fieldings are big fans of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, on the white side, and Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon on the red side. The core white varietals are made on several levels and have provided some key Niagara signature whites including the Lot No. 17 Riesling and Rock Pile Pinot Gris. It’s probably just a coincidence that No. 17 just so happens to be the jersey number of one of the greatest (arguably) Leafs ever: Wendel Clark.
The wines that are bottled at Fielding Estate have always been a reflection of the owners and winemaker: Good, honest, well-made wines from vintage to vintage, varietal to varietal. The logo showing the stylized Muskoka chair on nearly bottle is an apt reflection of the wines in the core Fielding portfolio: Comfortable, consistent and dependable.
But there’s also an element of the unexpected depending on what the vintage wants to offer. In 2012, it’s the extraordinary Chosen Few red blend, a wine that would have made my Top 10 Most Exciting Reds for 2015 list if it wasn’t already published (now a contender for the 2016 list). Also, the Syrah from 2012, another beauty sourced from the Lowrey Vineyard in St. Davids. Wine club members will have a treat available to them, the 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (the regular cuvee made it to my Top 10 Reds list, and the reserve kicks it up a notch). Another wine to watch for is the Viognier 2014, a favourite of Roberts and a wine that is a beautiful and pure expression of this lovely grape.
I sat down with Roberts before Christmas and tasted through the portfolio of current and upcoming wines. Here’s what I liked. Also included in this tasting report are two wines from Lakeview Estate and a duo of sparkling wines from Chateau des Charmes.
Fielding Estate Reds
Fielding Estate Chosen Few 2012 ($60, winery, 93 points) — The 2012 version of Fielding’s rarest wine (there was only one other, the 2007) is a blend of Cabernet Franc (38%), Syrah (37%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) all sourced from the Lowrey Vineyard in St. Davids. “It’s something special,” said Roberts, “the best we can possibly make.” The blend is chosen from the best French oak barrels after aging separately for 18 months and tasted blind. The wine is finished unfiltered and unfined. “We’re looking for depth, complexity and longevity,” said Roberts. Under 200 cases of this wine were produced. It is extremely tight at the moment but the nose shows layers of black currants, black cherry-kirsch, baking spices, toasted oak nuances and cracked black pepper notes. It’s youthful on the palate but jam-packed with black currants, blackberries, lavish barrel oak spices, peppery spices with length, complexity and a textured mouth feel to go with ripe, but firm, tannins. This can age and improve for 5-15 years in the cellar. A beautiful thing.
Fielding Estate Syrah 2012 ($40, winery, 92 points) — Another red sourced from the warm Lowrey Vineyard. The wine is aged in a combination of French and American oak, 35% of which is new, for 18 months. The nose shows a classically styled Syrah with a peppery-spicy-earthy nose that also shows bacon fat, red fruits, boysenberry and savoury notes. The palate reveals a mouth of ripe fruits, funky grilled meats, licorice, spice and pepper all built on a solid foundation of firm tannins that lend structure and aging potential to this big, bold Syrah.
Fielding Estate Cabernet Franc 2013 ($22, winery this spring, Vintages this summer, 89 points) — A savoury nose of earthy red fruits, herbs and spice with touches of cassis and blueberry. It’s rustic, old-school Franc with savoury spices, bright red and dark fruits with an earthy feel through the finish.
Fielding Estate Whites/Sparkling
Fielding Estate Sparkling Rose ($30, winery, 90 points) — The is a non-vintage Rose traditionally made from 84% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay with the bulk of the fruit from the 2013 vintage. It’s quite toasty on the nose with fragrant red fruits, herbs, raspberry and leesy/floral notes. It has good acid lift on the palate with tart red fruits, lovely finesse, a lively mousse and a toasty note through the finish.
Fielding Estate Pinot Grigio 2014 ($17, June release, 88 points) — This is Fielding’s entry-level Gris/Grigio that mostly is sold to the LCBO. It’s loaded with assertive aromatics of peach, melon, honey and pear notes. It has good freshness and bright acidity that lifts the pear, peach and melon flavours through a clean finish.
Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2014 ($22, winery, Vintages in May, 90 points) — Roberts makes one the finest Pinot Gris in Niagara with his Rock Pile bottling. Unfortunately, the Rock Pile wasn’t made in 2014 and what little there was went into this estate bottling. “This is my 8th year making Pinot Gris,” said Roberts. “And this is my favourite for drinking of any I’ve made.” It’s picked a little later with longer skin contact and some barrel fermentation and aging. It’s rich and layered on the nose with honey, melon, pear and baked apple-spice notes. It has lovely texture on the palate with ripe fruit, a touch of fresh citrus, well balanced and a lovely spice note through the finish.
Fielding Unoaked Chardonnay 2014 ($15, Vintages Jan. 9, 88 points) — The nose show juicy peach, citrus, pineapple and fresh green apple notes. It’s made in a fresh, pure style with apple, melon and a touch of citrus in the mouth. Good value Chardonnay.
Fielding Estate Chardonnay 2014 ($22, winery, Vintages in April, 90 points) — Look out the window from Fielding’s tasting room and that’s where this Chardonnay comes from. It has a gorgeous nose of grapefruit, citrus, poached pear, vanilla, toast and tangerine. It has lovely texture and freshness with the stone fruit and citrus flavours building on the palate and all lifted by racy acidity through the finish.
Fielding Estate Riesling 2014 ($20, winery, Vintages now, 88 points) — A nose of lime, citrus, canned peach and grapefruit. It’s off-dry on the palate but built with a healthy dose of acidity to provide a sweet-tart tug of citrus-lime and peach fruit through a lifted finish.
Fielding Estate Lot No. 17 Riesling 2014 ($28, winery, 92 points) — Always one of Niagara’s top Rieslings. It’s picked later from Clone 49 vines planted East-West at the estate. The highly aromatic nose shows bright lime, apple, ginger, tangerine and lovely integrated wild honey notes. It has good, tangy fruit on the palate and shows an array of interesting citrus, guava, ginger spice, green apple and nectarine fruit through a lifted, bright finish. Try putting this in the cellar for a few years (if you can).
Fielding Estate Viognier 2014 ($23, Vintages in March, 91 points) — Just under 100 cases of this lovely Vio were made at Fielding. It has rockin’ aromatics of apricot, peach, citrus and a squirt of fresh lime juice. There is some weight to this on the palate but made in a fresh, approachable style with juicy apricot, lime and melon that’s clean through the finish.
Lakeview Cellars
Lakeview Cellars Syrah 2012 ($25, available now at Diamond Estates, 92 points) — A wonderful surprise and one of the most delicious Syrahs I have tasted from Niagara. A beautiful nose of smoke, pepper, red fruits, earth, black currants and leather. The fruit dominates the palate with bright and juicy blackberry, currants and cherry all supported by cracked black peppercorns and spice. It has depth and perfect balance between fruit and spice through a long, clean finish. Such amazing expressive fruit. Bravo!
Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine 2013 ($30 for 200 mL, Diamond Estates, Vintages, 92 points) — An expressive note of black cherry, strawberry and blueberry pie. It’s sweet and rich on the palate with strawberry/raspberry jam and subtle herbs that provide a lavish and textured icewine with good balance from freshening acidity through the finish.
Chateau des Charmes
This St. Davids winery released a trio of “methode traditionnelle” sparklers in December that have a festive package with a “splash of bling.” The third in the trio, not reviewed here, is a Blanc de Blancs that will be featured at the next i4C event this summer.
Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling 2012 ($29, winery, CdC boutiques, Vintages Feb. 6, 91 points) — This is a 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a Pinot Noir dosage that was recently disgorged after 18 months on the lees and is made in the traditional method. It has a pretty nose of soft red fruits of raspberry, cranberry and cherry with subtle herbs. A gentle mousse leads to rich, ripe cherry and cranberry fruits that are elegant and lush on the palate. This is a nicely mature and poised rose with a touch of sweetness on the finish.
Chateau des Charmes Brut Sparkling NV ($23, winery, CdC boutiques, LCBO, 88 points) — The 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was recently disgorged after three years on the lees. It is made the traditional method. The nose shows lemon, toast and citrus that’s bright yet elegant. The tiny bubbles pop on the palate with creamy but fresh lemon, lime, pear, apple fruits all lifted by bright acidity. Great value sparkler.
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