By Michael Lowe
It’s been many years since my first visit to Zest Kitchen in Fonthill. Back then it had different owners and a different chef. Time to check in and see how things are going now.
For the past 13 years Zest Kitchen has been run by the talented team of David Watt and Leigh Atherton. You may recognize those names — they also operate The Garrison House in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The guy in the kitchen, Chef de Cuisine Anthony Greco, is a down-to-earth, very likable fellow — in my opinion, one of Niagara’s best chefs. I was first witness to Greco’s passion for cooking in 2011 while he was Executive Chef at Commisso’s Fresh Foods in Niagara Falls when I did a story on the store (read here). He cooked, off-the-cuff, an amazing veal chop while I stood by taking notes. In 2012, I attended the Iron Chef Niagara final where he was runner-up to victor Chef Ryan Crawford. It was, most definitely, a close contest.
This time at Zest I left it up to Chef to decide on the menu. If you call ahead and ask for a tasting menu he is more than willing to oblige. We start off simple with a refreshing plate of briny oysters (above photo). If you can take a bit of heat, try the house-made chili sauce. Chef Greco smokes a variety of peppers, roasts fresh, locally grown tomatoes and blends the whole lot with garlic. The result is packed with smoky flavour and just enough heat to enhance the mixture. Our next dish is an earthy salad of heirloom beets and red wine poached Bosc pears drizzled with Minus 8 vinaigrette and accompanied with creme fraiche (below photo). What strikes me about the dish is that there is no trace of horrid, acidic pickling treatment on the beets. The flavour of each ingredient stands on its own, yet is in harmony with the others. Candied walnuts add a hint of nutty sweetness and toothy texture.
The third dishes — Pingue prosciutto croquettes and gnocchi with Cumbrae Farms bacon and butternut squash (below photos) follow a theme — one I am starting to figure out about Chef Greco’s style. He packs a lot of flavour into his creations without fussing too much with the components. The crunchy shell of the croquettes gives way to oozing, thick and rich bechamel blended with prosciutto and they brought a tear to my eye. They were that good. The gnocchi, with the smoky bacon, sweet squash and salty grana padano cheese has a similar effect.
Imagine Indian flavours married with an Arctic Char and carrot composition (below photo). Crispy skin and the delicate flesh of the char paired with curried carrots and velvety carrot sauce are accented with the subtle sweetness of golden raisins and crisp sunchoke chips. The dish is simple, but is a masterful, harmonious combination displaying layers of complex flavour and is one of my favourites of the night.
Next we indulge with 40-day dry-aged Black Angus beef (below photo). Evenly seared to perfection, the beef is paired with sauteed shitake and honey mushrooms. Two elements pull the main components together — white anchovy and foie gras butter which coats the mushroom saute. Pickled mushrooms add balancing acidity to the richness of the dish.
Dessert is as stunning as the preceding plates. A crunchy peanut butter and dark chocolate bar, topped with minted salt, is paired with caramel corn, milk chocolate crema with amaretti cookie crumbs (below photo). The plate is a treat for the senses — the caramel corn melts in the mouth and the other components work together in a cohesive manner.
The menu at Zest changes often taking advantage of what’s in season or has been preserved for the off-season. Zest Kitchen appears to be in good hands. The owners have a talented, passionate chef and they give him enough leeway to show his stuff. Some of the dishes we had are on the menu, but many are not. So, if you’re adventurous, let Chef Greco express his style. His cooking is sure to delight your palate.
Zest Kitchen
1469 Pelham Street, South, Fonthill
905-892-6474
www.zestfonthill.com
• Highly recommended.
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