The Okanagan Valley, Part 1
OKANAGAN VALLEY, B.C. — I get butterflies every time the plane from Vancouver makes its descent into Kelowna, the starting point for a wine trip to the Okanagan Valley.
Not because it’s different than any other landing at any other airport. It’s the anticipation of what’s to come, what’s new and exciting, the thrill of what lies ahead.
The Okanagan Valley is a region that’s spread out over a great distance. It’s not easy getting from one end in the north to the other end in the south in a day. And it’s a lot more difficult now with new wineries, restaurants and interesting culinary-vinous side trips popping up all over the Valley and vying for your attention.
A short 10 years ago, only the largest, most established wineries in the Okanagan kept regular hours and only a select few had a restaurant attached to keep visitors on the property longer than a quick taste and buy whistle stop.
A trip for me back then meant a long drive from Calgary, Alberta, with the family to a beachside location where wine was merely something to do in between swimming, playing golf (tremendous courses, by the way) and enjoying the pastoral beauty of the region.
Fast-forward to today, and the Okanagan is a far different destination. A wine and food lover can literally keep busy exploring, drinking and eating for a week or more as the region ramps up development to attract a larger, more committed wine and food traveller to the region.
There are many dichotomies at play in the Okanagan: There’s wine and culinary, there are the retirees and their modest abodes and there are the big, flashy lakeside mansions owned by well-off oilmen from Alberta, and there are the locals who were slow to embrace any of the change that was coming.
You get a sense that they are all now respectful of each other and realize the wonderful transformation that is going on in the Okanagan Valley and are, together, embracing it.
That transformation means new wineries with more acres of land being planted to grape vines, expansion of wineries to include larger tasting rooms and even winery restaurants, hotels and resorts that are trying to keep up to the demand of an influx of wine-culinary tourists, and a new generation of restaurants that cater to those who want local, well-prepared food and are willing to pay the price.
It truly is fascinating to watch as this region comes of age and also deals with the growing that come with maturity.
Here are some highlights, in Part I, of a recent trip back to the Valley (and I apologize for the lateness of this post. I had to hold off posting to my own website until my freelance commitments were published first. You can pick up the current issue of Tidings wine magazine for a different version of this post or check out Traveling Golfer for another version):
GRAY MONK WINERY
Kelowna — It is off the beaten track, but worth the trek to this spectacular winery with stunning views of Okanagan Lake and the 50 acres of sloping vineyards that surround the estate.
Recent renovations include panoramic views of the lake from inside the Grapeview Restaurant and outside on the giant deck. Chef Willi Franz has created a menu that changes with the seasons. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of wild spring salmon filet matched to the Gray Monk Unoaked Chardonnay that was clean and fresh and paired beautifully with the salmon.
The Heiss family has owned and run Gray Monk since 1972, making them somewhat of pioneers in the Valley. The wine program consists of three tiers — Latitude 50, Estate Series and the top Odyssey wines all made from classic grape varieties that do best in the Okanagan.
Wine review:
Gray Monk Odyssey Pinot Gris 2009 ($24, 89 points) – The Heiss family introduced Pinot Gris to Canada way back in 1978. The Gris for the Odyssey comes from Block B of the Gray Monk vineyard. It’s a partially oaked style with a nose of pear and spiced apple. The palate reveals deliciously fleshy fruit, grippy in the mouth, with elegant pear and spice.
EX NIHILO VINEYARDS
Lake Country — If you love the Rolling Stones, you will simply be in awe at this funky rock and roll winery with the gorgeous lake views and spectacular lineup of wines.
That’s because Ex Nihilo accomplished the seemingly impossible — they got their icewine endorsed by, and have the rights to naming it, after the Rolling Stones. And the two wines were personally approved (and tasted!) by Mick Jagger himself. How cool is that?
What did they call their unique Riesling and Pinot Noir Rolling Stone icewine? Sympathy For the Devil, of course, and each bottle is stamped with the familiar Rolling Stone tongue logo. The two wines, from the 2004 vintage, sell for $125 per half bottle and are quickly running out.
That alone is worth the trip to this new winery, which opened in May 2009. But they also have a tasty portfolio of well-made wines including Merlot, Riesling, Pinot Gris and a signature red blend.
Wine reviews:
Ex Nihilo Pinot Gris 2009 ($21, 88 points) – Very different style of Gris with peach, apricot and tropical fruit notes on the nose. It’s ripe on the palate with apricots, figs and spice.
Ex Nihilo Merlot 2008 ($35, 91 points) – The Merlot was fermented in stainless and aged in 100% second-generation French oak barrels for 20 months. It shows plenty of raspberry and red fruit aromas as well as vanilla and dark chocolate on the nose. It’s rich and layered on the palate with an array of fruit and spice. One to lay down in the cellar for a few years.
Ex Nihilo Night 2007 ($40, 92 points) — The Night is a blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. The nose shows currants, tobacco leaf, raspberry and sandalwood to go with toasted vanilla. The fruits are joined by earthy-smoky notes on the palate as well as roasted coffee bean and spice. Delicious stuff.
Ex Nihilo Sympathy for the Devil Riesling Icewine 2004 ($125 for 375 ml, 88 points) – This is the wine that put Ex Nihilo on the map. A Riesling sanctioned and approved personally by Mick Jagger and one of only two wineries in the world (the other one is in Napa Valley) allowed to legally stamp every bottled with the Rolling Stone logo. It’s nearly all gone. The wine is starting to show its age with dried fruits, baked apple and caramel aromas on the nose. It’s hanging in on the palate with the complex flavours age brings to good Riesling – honied grapefruit, dried apricot, mango and caramel-butterscotch notes.
RAUDZ
Kelowna — This downtown eatery is indicative of the culinary revolution that’s taking place in the Okanagan that has migrated beyond the wineries and, finally, caught on in the main towns of wine country.
Raudz (pronounced Rod’s, after chef-owner Rob Butters) is an open kitchen concept, contemporary bistro that serves up fresh local dishes in a comfortable, casual and relaxed space. From the moment you walk into Raudz you are welcomed by staff, seated and presented with an array of fun cocktails to try from the enthusiastic mixologist and a list of the best local wines from the Okanagan Valley.
We ordered the Meyer Family Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 to go with heavenly Tofino-style crab cakes and B.C. elk medallions served with Vancouver Island asparagus.
Raudz’s philosophy is to work in partnership with regional farmers, ranchers and artisans using organic, sustainable and naturally-raised ingredients to create simple flavours with a fun presentation. It’s well worth the side trip into downtown Kelowna.
Wine review:
Meyer Family Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 ($25, 88 points) – Fine nose of cherry fruit, spice, vanilla and touches of dried herbs and smoke. It reveals depth and layers of minerality, cherry, cassis and spice in the mouth on a silky smooth frame. Enjoy this with crab cakes, it’s beautiful thing.
SERENATA GUEST HOUSE
Penticton — The Okanagan Valley is dotted with exclusive resorts, lakeside hotels and hundreds of quaint, peaceful bed and breakfasts. The Serenata Guest House, a hillside retreat overlooking Okanagan Lake and the Naramata Bench wine region, is just about as good as it gets.
Run by the nicest couple, Linda and Michael Newton, this small but luxurious retreat has all the amenities for pure comfort and relaxation in extra large suites, complete with spa jet tubs, large flat screen TVs and cozy fireplaces. And Michael Newton loves to cook up a gourmet feast for breakfast before you carry on your travels in wine country. During a walk around the property I ran into quite a few deer along the trail, a nuisance for the owners but a great encounter for guests.
LOCAL LOUNGE & GRILL
Summerland — Another fine eatery that uses only locally sourced ingredients to match with what is possibly the largest collection of VQA B.C. wines (175 wines on the list) in the world as well as a vast local craft beer list. Executive Chef Paul Cecconi’s menu changes with the seasons and includes delicious pastas, salads, soups, steak burgers, panini and pulled pork sandwiches served either inside overlooking Okanagan Lake or right on the water on the 120-seat patio.
We enjoyed Genoa salami flatbread with the signature baby iceberg salad with warm shimeji mushrooms, smoked bacon, dried berries and blue Capri buttermilk dressing.
We enjoyed our meal with one of the Okanagan Valley’s newest wines — The Haywire Switchback Pinot Gris 2009 and the Haywire Gamay Noir Rose with refreshing red fruit flavours.
We also enjoyed a taste of the new HMC McWatter Collection Meritage 2007, an earthy, big, fruity blend with blackberry fruit and layered spices.
Wine reviews:
Haywire Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris 2010 ($23, 90 points) – A very nice wine from this relatively new Summerland winery and vineyard. A nose of citrus, apple and stoney minerality running through the core. It’s crisp and zippy on the palate with lemon-lime, mango, pineapple and apple flavours all coming together in the mouth. Refreshing and flavourful Pinot Gris.
HMC McWatters Collection Meritage 2007 ($25, 91 points) – Harry McWatters is a legendary wine pioneer in Canada with many accolades attached to his name. He’s solo now, and back at making wine from a winery high up on the sandy loam soil of the Black Sage Bench in Oliver. This first Meritage, and only wine released from McWatters so far, is comprised of Merlot 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Cabernet Franc 5%, and harvested at the peak of ripeness. The wine is matured in small French oak casks for 15 months and then a further 15 months in bottles. It is a big wine both on the nose and on the palate. The nose shows earth, black fruits of cassis and blackberry and wonderful toasted oak and spice. It is substantive in the mouth with ripe and bold blackberry, currants and cassis with secondary flavours of Espresso, fine oak, earth and spice all on a bed of ripe tannins. Can still age and improve in the cellar.
POPLAR GROVE ESTATE WINERY
Naramata Bench — This small, family owned, boutique winery started as a tiny garage winery making highly regarded wines in small numbers all from estate fruit.
Earlier this summer, Poplar Grove moved into a stunning new winery built on Munson Mountain at the gateway to the Naramata Bench with awe-inspiring views of Penticton’s scenic waterfront.
The $10-million winery was just being finished up on my visit but now completed, it will boasts some of the most stunning views in the Okanagan with an already impressive list of wines made from Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and a Bordeaux blend called The Legacy.
The new estate 9,500 sq. ft. winery consists a tasting room and patio lounge that will eventually will have a small bistro serving up light meals.
Wine reviews:
Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc 2007 ($35, 90 points) – A lovely, already balanced, nose of raspberry, blackberry and fresh herbs and spices. The fruits are joined by cocoa and spice on the palate with good acidity and fine-grained tannins.
Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2009 ($20, 88 points) – A fresh nose of apple, tropical fruits and some peach-pear notes from the orchard. It’s fresh and crisp on the palate and loaded with fruit and clean, crisp acidity.
Enjoy!
Note: We look at the Southern Okanagan in Part II posted soon here.
The Local Lounge and Grill is in Summerland! not Penticton.
Just corrected that, thanks!