Commisso’s puts a fresh face on fresh food

 

By Michael Lowe

While the concept of serving fresh, store-made, foods at your neighborhood grocery store is common today in many large metropolitan cites, locally it has been limited to small delicatessens and specialty shops. Exactly one year ago Commisso’s Fresh Foods opened its doors putting a fresh face on the often mundane task of grocery shopping.

The bright, spacious store beckons to the food-savvy shopper who will delight in snapping up many hard to find items offered for sale. On my first visit I picked up a 250 ml bottle of truffle oil. When is the last time you saw that at your local grocery store? In the store-made food section you can choose from a variety of fresh pasta and sauces, hearty soups, fresh fruit preserves (reduced sugar or sugar-free), salad dressings, and spectacular breads and pastries.

But, what sets Commisso’s apart from the rest is the scale with which they provide healthy, freshly prepared foods for consumption, not only in the home, but right in the store. Always in search of something a little different, I subject myself to another first in my quest for good eating: Dining out at the grocery store.

A cold table and hot table are loaded with tasty choices from which customers can build one of four “meal deals” priced between $3.99 and $7.99.

Salads, like the cool, refreshing edamame, pear and radish combination and an earthy/sweet beet, apple and walnut concoction will tempt health-conscious  palates.

Comforting Italian dishes include penne (made in house), breaded veal and chicken cutlets, zesty tomato sauce, and store-made Italian sausages. The delicious, fine textured meatballs are just too good to pass up.

Executive Chef Anthony Greco says, “We sell 600 pounds of them a week.” I try a sample of many of the offerings and they measure up to the homespun goodness that you would expect from time-tested Italian recipes. A pizza oven churns out hot pies for you to take home or devour in-store by the slice.

Commisso’s kitchen is state-of-the-art, spacious, clean and well designed. According to sous chef Scott Hunter, “You can work in a lot of restaurant kitchens and not see equipment like this.” The two chefs, along with pizza chef Michael Commisso, are graduates of the culinary program at Niagara College.

Chef Greco makes a quick tour of the store and proceeds to “throw together” a plate of grilled, milk-fed veal chop, plump, nutty wheat berries (straight from the cold table, and pictured at the top of this post) warmed and tossed with fresh plums, served with tender baby bok choy, and garnished with figs that were picked that morning. A wonderful pan sauce is made from richly flavoured beef stock and cracked pepper, balsamic mustard. The dish is a testament to Greco’s years of fine dining experience.

Customer service is an obvious priority at Commisso’s. Chef Hunter recounts the story of a lady who didn’t know how to prepare an artichoke. A grin comes across his face as he says “So we brought her into the kitchen, gave her a cutting board and knife and showed her.”

The store is also involved with two area schools’ lunch programs. During holidays look for complete meal deals that can be ordered in advance for pick up on the special day.

Once you’ve made up your plate you can sit in Mr. Mike’s Bistro, illuminated by floor to ceiling windows. For dessert you must try one of Commisso’s delectable gelatos or sorbets. This time I dig into a generous “single” scoop of chocolate brownie gelato ($3). The intensity of flavour, and the rich, creamy texture, coupled with a cup of fresh dark roast coffee, brings instant gratification.

Besides being a great place to grab a bite to eat, Commisso’s is a wonderful resource for both the inventive home cook and those who hate to cook. Eat as good or better than at some restaurants at Commisso’s Fresh Foods.

Update: During a return visit, I took home a large double cheese, pepperoni & bacon pizza, fresh from the oven. The aroma wafted through my truck as I hurried home, dying to dig in. Once home, a single bite took me back to the little Sicilian pizza place in Queens, New York that I used to frequent in my adolescent years. The thin, crisp crust and top quality ingredients combined to create a glorious pie. I had not, until then (or since), tasted pizza that delicious anywhere in Niagara.

Commisso’s Fresh Foods

6161 Thorold Stone Road,

Niagara Falls, Ontario

905 357 6600

4 Stars

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Mike’s Wine Pick

Kacaba Meritage 2008 (VQA Niagara Escarpment, $16.95, at the winery and LCBO #101477) — Aromas of dark berries are at the core intermingled with spice and vanilla notes. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of dark fruit and firm tannins for structure. A very good value wine.

Kacaba Vineyards
3550 King St.,
Vineland, Ontario, 905-562-5625