Cabernet Franc. It definitely has its fair share of fans in Canadian wine circles. Vocal fans. Those who shout from the mountain tops that this single variety is what they desire more than any other in Ontario and B.C.
I’m not quite there yet.
I place it just after Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. And in some vintages, even after Syrah and some of the magnificent red and white Bordeaux blends being made in some circles.
But there is no denying that there is something very exciting going on with Cabernet Franc, especially in the riper Niagara vintages such as 2007 and, now, in 2010. In B.C., that grape can ripen in most vintages and CF producers there rarely miss a vintage.
Diehard CF fans buy it vintage to vintage and embrace the exaggerated lean, bell pepper and herb qualities in weaker vintages and are thrilled with the riper wines in the warmer vintages. They love Cabernet Franc unconditionally.
I do not. But that’s just me.
I cannot see beyond the green, herbaceous, tomato plant notes in the lean years. It’s a little bit like the herbal mint tea I used to enjoy while nursing a cold; all mint, garden herbs and light fruit notes. My palate can’t take the shock from vintage to vintage like it can for, say, a voluptuous Riesling in a hot vintage and an austere, acid-laced Riesling in a cool vintage. I find goodness in both those styles.
The first one I tried from 2010 was Brian Schmidt’s early-release regular cuvee CF. Schmidt is one of those Cab Franc freaks (I mean that in the most respectful way) who loves the grape through thick and thin. He has a knack for making some pretty spectacular wines out of that grape vintage to vintage using some skilful winery tricks (such as micro-oxygenation) in his most inexpensive bottlings. His top cuvees are gorgeous and pure examples of the varietal at the highest level in Niagara.
His entry level CF ($13!) 2010 is delicious with ripe cassis, currants, cherry-raspberry fruit and tobacco with just a subtle note of wood spice. It gushes on the palate with deliciously bold fruits, impeccable balance and smooth tannins through the long finish.
But not all wineries can turn a weak vintage into bottled gems. So, yes, I am mostly a fair weather Cab Franc lover. Sorry.
I had heard through the Twitterverse recently, where all news breaks first in this day and age, that Ravine Vineyard was previewing its 2010 Cabernet Franc for a select few wine lovers.
I just had to have a sip.
Alex Harber, Ravine Vineyard wine steward and part of the family that owns the St. Davids Bench winery, was only too happy to pour some juice for me.
Ravine, like Vineland, has built a portfolio around a big Cabernet Franc presence. As Harber says: “We love our Francs here.”
The winery added to its bottlings in 2010 with a special Picone Vineyard Cabernet Franc to go with the Sand & Gravel, Estate and Estate Reserve wines already in the family.
It’s a departure for Ravine, which has until now made all its estate wines from the organically-certified home vineyard in St. Davids. Picone, more well-known for providing the Riesling grapes that go into the Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling, is in the Vinemount Ridge appellation that is situated just above and south of the brow of the Niagara Escarpment in the Jordan-Vineland area on the Beamsville Bench.
The new wine, says Harber, gives Ravine a chance to showcase the differences in Niagara appellations and also a chance to work closer with Mark Picone, a chef and culinary genius, who owns the small cab franc vineyard planted to the 291 clone on the south end of his mostly Riesling vineyard.
I tried the as-yet unreleased Cab Francs and some other 2010 estates reds from Ravine with Harber. Here’s what I liked.
Ravine Estate Meritage 2010 ($25, available now at the winery, 89 points) — This is a blend of 50% Merlot, and 25% each of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon all from estate, organically-certified fruit. The nose is inviting and bold with wild berry, cherry and sprinkled with spice and oak tones. It shows juicy cherry and plum fruits, sweet spices and fine balance in the mouth. Good value for this quality red blend.
Ravine Estate Merlot 2010 ($34, release date not decided, 90 points) — A mid-weight Merlot with a lovely nose of red fruits, red plum, anise and spice. It’s wonderful in the mouth with cherries, earth, spice and toasted oak flavours that are balanced and poised.
Ravine Estate Cabernet Franc 2010 ($32, April 21 release, 91 points) — A classic example of the variety when it’s done right in Niagara. A beautiful nose of bramble, cherry, currants, stewed herbs, sweet tobacco leaf and light toast and spice. It is ripe and delicious in the mouth with plush tannins, an array of red and dark fruits, and just a hint of minty herbs. A beauty that will evolve further in the bottle.
Ravine Cabernet Franc Picone Vineyard Reserve 2010 ($40, April release, 92 points) — Only 160 cases of this Cab Franc from the Vinemount Ridge appellation were made. It’s a killer wine and a brilliant example of where this varietal can go in a ripe vintage when grown and made with care. The nose shows wonderful raspberry-cherry fruit, tobacco, plums, blueberry pie, violets and integrated spice notes. It shows wonderful balance in the mouth with the fruits well-integrated, fine tannins and an under-handed approach to the oak spices. Just a very fine, elegant Cab Franc that will absolutely wow you.
Enjoy!
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