Charles Baker wears two very distinct hats in Niagara. First as the marketing and sales director for Stratus Vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake and second as proprietor of a small virtual winery called, appropriately, Charles Baker Riesling.
Baker has been making his “CB” Picone Vineyard Riesling, with the help of winemaker J-L Groux at the Stratus winery, since 2005 and it has quickly become recognized as one of Niagara’s top collectible Rieslings.
Baker has developed a close association with vineyard owner Mark Picone who owns just two blocks of Riesling in the Vinemount Ridge appellation, which all go exclusively to Baker.
Picone calls himself a steward of the land and combines his love of locally grown produce with a passion for wine. He and Baker found they shared a similar obsession for Riesling and the two set out to showcase the terroir, the region and the varietal from the hard clay soil of the Picone Vineyard.
The wine has been consistently delicious from vintage to vintage with distinct aromatics, floral notes and the edgy minerality defined by the appellation. But only tiny amounts are made each year.
Baker is just releasing his 2010 Picone Vineyard Riesling after adding a second Riesling to his limited portfolio, another 2010 single-vineyard wine from the Ivan Vineyard, which is already sold out.
Baker’s new vintage of Picone is reviewed below along with new releases from Stoney Ridge and Reif estate.
Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2010 ($35, at Stratus or online at charlesbaker.ca, 91 points) — The grapes for this Riesling were picked late despite the heat of the vintage, but is finished with less residual sugar (10 grams per litre compared to 27 g/l for the 2009). It still shows ripe grapefruit, green apple, floral and mineral notes on the nose. It’s technically less dry on the palate but the ripe fruits give it a rounder, sweeter impression in the mouth. Baker says aside from a little less residual sugar the wine is made virtually the same. “It’s just vintage variation, pure and simple.” I love the texture in Baker’s Rieslings and even though it’s from a warmer vintage it still shows classic tension and acidity through the finish. I sense the 2009s and 2008s will outlast the 2010 vintage in the cellar, but this is a beauty for drinking now. A must for that CB vertical.
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Stoney Ridge winery has undergone a lot of changes in the last year or so with veteran winemaker Jim Warren leaving the winery and changes to the portfolio, mainly trimming down the various tiers.
But the Excellence series, made by winemaker Gordon Robert since its inception, has remained intact and garnered praise at various wine competitions including the 2009 Chardonnay which won best Chardonnay at Cuvee 2012 and the Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence.
The winery has just released a new collection of Excellence wines. Here’s what I liked:
Stoney Ridge Excellence Pinot Gris 2010 ($27, winery, 91 points) —This Gris is delicious. It has gorgeous nose of melon, Bosc pear, grapefruit and soft spices. It’s made slightly off-dry in a ripe style that showcases apple crisp, citrus and stone fruits that are vibrant through the finish. Drinking beautifully right now.
Stoney Ridge Excellence Sauvignon Blanc Kasper Vineyard 2010 ($27, winery, 88 points) — A refreshing style with aromas of fresh-mown grass, grapefruit and lime. It has a lovely mineral component in the mouth with grassy-citrus, gooseberry fruits and fresh lime delivered on a sharp beam of acidity.
Stoney Ridge Excellence Cabernet Franc 2009 ($34, winery, 89 points) — A smoky-raspberry nose with cigar leaf, cassis, charred oak and herbs on the nose. I love the deep, rich colour of this racy Cab Franc. In the mouth, look for complex layers of red and black fruits, spice, tobacco, underbrush and roasted herbs to go with rousing acidity and soft-ish tannins. Can cellar a few years.
Stoney Ridge Excellence Meritage 2009 ($36, winery, 88 points) — A nose of toasted oak, plums, blackberry, currants, earth and campfire smoke. It has a core of juicy red and dark fruit, lifted by the high acidity of the vintage, and accented by tar and licorice through the finish. Can cellar for a few years or enjoy now.
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Reif Estates in Niagara-on-the-Lake likes nothing better than a hot and juicy vintage such as 2010 to fully exploit the Bordeaux varieties winemaker Roberto DiDomenico loves to craft.
A lot of Niagara wineries, including Reif, are saying 2010 is better than 2007 for ripeness in the classic red grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Indeed, the first releases of the Cab-Merlots, Meritage blends and single varietals have been outstanding with depth of flavour and complexity and potential for long aging.
Reif’s estate vineyards for the big red varietals are situated in the Niagara River sub-appellation and are produced from two vineyard blocks, Cabernet Sauvignon E9 and Merlot Block E10, both planted in 1989. The vineyard survived the brutal winters of 2002 and 2003 without the protection of wind machines.
The Estate Reserve tier at Reif is one below its top tier of First Growth, made only in the very best vintages such as 2010. Here are three reviews.
Reif Estate Reserve Merlot 2010 ($27, winery, 90 points) —What a fabulous red to tuck away in the cellar for a few years. It shows a ripe nose of currants, plums, a touch of black raspberry, toasty vanilla and oak-inspired spices. It’s thick and rich on the palate but smooth and not overly tannic. It shows black fruits, smoke, Espresso, brambly fruit and a complex array of spices and well-managed tannins (by that, I mean not aggressive as is wont to do in a big vintage).
Reif Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($25, winery, 88 points) — Quite floral on the nose with mocha, spice, cassis, blackberry and bramble fruit. The fruit on the palate is sweet and ripe and backed up by racy acidity and firm tannins. A lovely note of eucalypt adds to the pleasure. Cellar five or more years.
Reif Estate Meritage 2010 ($27, winery, 90 points) — The blend is 45% Cab Sauv, 40% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc with a barrel combination of French, Hungarian and American oak. The nose shows kirsch, clove, toasted oak and spices and a mélange of red and dark fruits. It’s nicely balanced in the mouth with delicious fruit, quite ripe and complex, with a core of acidity through the finish. Drink now if decanted or age for five-plus years.
Enjoy!
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