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A rant on the kitchen sink blends from Ontario that have hit epic proportions, plus Ontario Vintages wines release Saturday and new Kacaba reds

traditional-kitchen-sinksI’m in a very sour mood. So, bear with me here.

Please stop, I’m begging, please stop with the kitchen sink Ontario VQA multi-varietal red and white blends that have reached critical mass on the shelves of Ontario’s booze monopoly, the LCBO.

These wines are doing more harm than good for the reputation of Ontario wines.

I know, I know, it’s what the LCBO wants from you. They demand cute labels and an even cuter price point of $12-$14 and the only way you can do that is by blending a pile of grapes together and giving them that sweet little profile.

Then it’s off to the marketing people to come up with the cutest darn label the world has ever seen with a catchy little name that the LCBO loves to put front and centre on the already crammed shelves at its stores. It’s the homogenization of wine being led by the only retailer we have in this oppressed (when it comes to booze retailing) province of Ontario.

You need to take back control of what you do best, not what the LCBO wants you to do.

lcbo4These wines are driven by marketing and loved by the LCBO because they hit a price-point that competes with the mass-produced wines of the world.

Trouble is, they all taste exactly the same. That’s what happens when you blend Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay Musque, and Pinot Gris together. It tastes, well, like a $12 bottle of wine that’s stripped of its somewhereness, its pride and personality. It’s a wine that gets more attention for the pretty label and clever, oh so clever, name.

Nothing is off limits anymore: Take Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Gamay and, yes, even some Baco Noir, and toss into the blender and, voila!, an LCBO dream come true; an automatic pass through the VQA tasting panel, fast-tracked to a primo spot on the shelf.

You shouldn’t be fuelling these dreams. Get back on track. You are better than that. Ontario wines are better than that.

LCBO-Vintages-HeaderI know it’s easy for me to sit behind my laptop and lecture wineries on how to go about their business. It’s not my money we’re playing with here. I know Ontario wineries have to play nice with the LCBO and create these wines that get a guaranteed spot on the VQA shelf at its army of government stores. And that’s important for their business. It allows them some leverage to make some truly outstanding wines that have real Ontario personality. Like the wines that define what Ontario does best: Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, traditional red blends, Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, Gamay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and white blends that work (Sauvingon Blanc/Semillon, for example.

But, please, leave the kitchen sink alone for its true purpose: the dishes.

OK, rant is over. I feel better.

It’s another fairly large release of Ontario wines at Vintages this Saturday. Here are a few of the highlights.

Fielding Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 ($15, 88 points) — Pure, fresh aromas of crisp apple, citrus and melon. It’s refreshing on the palate with clean, bright fruits. Simple and delicious.

11294079995_e2a5a3832eLe Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 ($40, 91 points) — The goal for winemaker Sebastien Jacquey on this single-vineyard Chard was “structure on the mid-palate without being oaky.” Only 15% new French oak was used, a downward trend that we are seeing more and more in Niagara. The nose is not as overt as with the Claystone Vineyard, but the apple and pear fruit play nice with the spice and minerality. It is pretty and poised on the palate with lovely stone fruits, subtle spice and racy acidity that leads to a long, lively finish. Should have some nice age at this point.

afeather-red-tailFeatherstone Red Tail Merlot 2012 ($20, 90 points) — The 2012 vintage has been very kind to Featherstone. This is another solid from the winery’s red portfolio. The nose shows inviting raspberry, cherry and plum aromas with light spice. It’s lush and smooth on the palate with medium weight and showing flavours of raspberry, plums, licorice and spice with a smooth delivery through the long finish.

Rotary teams up with Chateau des Charmes

cdcrotaryThe Rotary Club of Mississauga Lakeshore launches an exclusive branded wine in 65 LCBO stores across Ontario starting Saturday.

Rotary partnered with industry pioneer Niagara-on-the-Lake winery Château des Charmes to grow and produce a red and white wine with $1 per bottle sold going to its foundation to support local and international charities.

The two wines, named 1951 after the year the first Rotary club in Mississauga was founded, includes an unoaked Chardonnay and a red blend.

“Lacking either knowledge or expertise in the field of wine, we set out to investigate the possibility of developing a private label wine for Rotary”, said Dick Chataway, past president of Mississauga Lakeshore Rotary. “We were fortunate to partner with the award winning Niagara winery Château des Charmes to produce our red and white wines, and are also delighted with the support and co-operation of the LCBO. It’s rewarding to see a small, casual idea, grow and bloom.”

You can find both wines at the LCBO beginning this Saturday.

The Château des Charmes Rotary Club 1951 Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 ($14) shows an array of fresh fruit from apple and pear to lingering citrus.

The Château des Charmes Rotary Club 1951 Cabernet/Merlot 2011 ($15) is bright and cheery on the nose with dominating red fruits, lightly spiced and rounded tannins.

Other Niagara wines released
Saturday but not reviewed:

Angels Gate Revenge 2009 ($14)
EastDell Black Label Riesling 2013 ($18)
Hinterbrook Clearly White 2013 ($13)
Angels Gate Rage 2012 ($14)
Hinterbrook Deeply Red Cabernet/Merlot 2012 ($14)
Peninsula Ridge A.J. Lepp Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 ($19)
Cave Spring Gewurztraminer 2012 ($18)
Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2012 ($25)
Megalomaniac Frank Cabernet Franc 2011 ($25)

A pick from the international
wines released Saturday

Jean-Max Roger Cuvee Les Caillottes Sancerre 2012 ($26, 89 points) — Just a lovely Sauvignon Blanc with a nose of guava, grapefruit, herbs, minerals and light fresh mown grass. Wonderful freshness on the palate with citrus-herb notes, an earthy-mineral feel and a tangy, zesty finish.

A pair of new reds from Kacaba

70_2011_Cabernet_Sauvignon_Large_webKacaba Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 ($25, winery, 88 points) — A nose of concentrated blackcurrants, cherry-raspberry, cocoa and lavishly spiced. The tannins roar on the palate with darker fruits and savoury-spicy notes emerging. It is firmly structured, with a touch of herbs, but needs to time to round out, or serve with rare red meat now.

Kacaba Cabernet Merlot Syrah 2013 ($17, LCBO, winery, 88 points) — A well-priced red blend that displays cassis, currants, plums, cherries and hints of blueberry, bramble and spice on the nose. It’s quite smooth, not buried in oak, with good berry flavours and peppery spice notes.