Peter Gamble and wife Ann Sperling have a long and storied history in the Canadian wine industry. And seven years ago, with the purchase of a perfect little vineyard in Mendoza wine country, they spread that reach — and passion for making world-class wines — to Argentina.
“We wanted to make great wine from a smaller property,” Gamble tells me from the comfort of their St. David’s home in Niagara.
Sperling, the winemaker at Southbrook Vineyards in Niagara and at her family’s Sperling Vineyards in the Okanagan and Gamble, an accomplished wine consultant and presently working for Benjamin Bridge Vineyards in Nova Scotia and Ravine Vineyard in Niagara, first bought a villa, which they named Villa Viamonte (below), in the old town of Chacras de Coria in 2007 with some Canadian partners.
The next task, the tougher job, was locating the perfect vineyard for what Gamble and Sperling wanted to do — make world-class Malbec from old vines on a property that could be converted to organic farming.
In 2008, they found and purchased an ancient vineyard that fit their requirements on the legendary Cobos Road and named it Versado, a Spanish word that translates to ‘well-versed’ (expert or accomplished) and has the same poetic echo (relating to ‘verse’) that it does in English.
The three-hectare property, with Malbec plantings dating back to 1920, is located in a cool-air corridor with pristine water winding its way to the vineyard from the mountains.
They elected to sell the 2008 harvest, and sections of the 2009, to another winery, where they ended up as a major component in their top wine — at $120 per bottle. The first vintage of Versado was a limited release from the top vines in 2009.
The small-lot wines from Versado — made in three tiers from the regular Malbec to Reserva to the Old Vine bottlings — are extraordinary wines quite unlike most everyday Malbecs from Argentina you find at the LCBO.
They are complex and concentrated yet maintain a certain freshness that makes them perfect companions for the dinner table.
There are several reasons for this:
One — The River
The vineyard is located over the ancient bed of the Mendoza River, and is comprised of a single metre of fine textured, silty, sandy, limestone-rich loam laying over many metres of intensely boulder-packed sub-strata. This unique soil structure provides the combined benefit of ample minerals, along with excellent drainage.
Only a very narrow strip of land — less than a kilometer in width — exists in the two tiny sub-appellations of Los Compuertas (immediately bordering the north edge of the current river bed), and the north end of Perdriel (below the south shoreline) that share this same prized sub-structure. It is a meagre soil offering mineral nutrients while allowing roots to go deep in search of water — a terroir winemakers seek the world over.
Two — The Road
Further defining Versado’s vineyard site is its location on legendary Calle Cobos (Cobos Road). Running parallel to the mountain range, the immediate proximity to the base of the high Andean foothills ensures cooler air from snow-covered peaks.
The road’s fame goes back to the 1800s when established vines planted along this route were recognized as superior, due to the balance and delicacy in the wines. Vineyards here were among the highest elevations of the classic Mendoza vineyard plantings, establishing the importance of elevation for fine winemaking. Further on, the beautifully moderated temperatures vanish as the chilling breezes pass over vineyards and fields absorbing heat on their slow, steady eastward fall towards the plains.
Three — The Air
Moving from meso-climate to micro-climate, Versado’s vineyard site also happens to fall within Mendoza’s dominant cool air corridor — the river bed of the massive, ancient Rio Mendoza. This river, that carries huge amounts of water out of the mountains, also channels particularly cold glacial air from a section of the Andes encompassing Mt. Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas.
This cool airflow is funneled down a narrow corridor, descending past an elite collection of prized vineyards in the sub-appellations of Los Compuertas and the north end of Perdriel.
The effect is a significantly cooler strip of land, with increased thermal amplitude (day/night temperature ranges) and a resultant drop in the pH of the wines produced here, that distinguishes them even from the other great wines of the cherished ‘Primera Zona’ — the classic region for the production of Mendoza’s finest wines.
Ontario wine lovers will get a chance to taste one of these exquisite wines from Versado with the Vintages release on Nov. 14. The Reserva (Malbec) 2011 is being offered at Vintages stores with the Versado Malbec 2013 coming to Vintages in January.
Consumers in B.C. and Alberta can purchase the 2010 version of the Reserva.
Here are reviews for the wines I tasted with Gamble and Sperling, along with other Vintages international releases due out on Saturday Nov. 14. Plus, an interesting and top-notch selection of Niagara wines are being released including both of Stratus Vineyard’s top 2012 wines and another sensational Niagara Chardonnay from Thomas Bachelder.
Versado Malbec 2013 ($26, Vintages in January, 91 points) — Hard to call this “entry level” but it is the junior partner in the modest Versado lineup. It’s wild fermented in concrete vats and made using “very little” manipulation before aging in older French oak barrels. It has a beautiful nose of rich black currants, plums, raspberry, blueberry, kirsch and smoky/spicy notes. It’s a full-bodied Malbec on the palate with layers of dark fruits, sweet oak spices and touches of integrated herbs, licorice and savoury notes through a long finish that’s supported by fine tannins, structure and bright acidity.
Versado Reserva 2011 ($60, Vintages Nov. 14, 93 points) — This Malbec is at the peak of its performance. “The thing with great vineyards,” says Gamble, “you really don’t have to do anything once you understand the fruit.” The wine is made from low yield, small berry Malbec that’s hand-picked, hand sorted, berry selected and spends 24 months in French oak after wild fermentation in concrete vats. Such a gorgeous and complex wine with super-concentrated blackberries, plums, currants, loam, hints of cherry, and toasted vanilla oak spice and leather. Complex and bold, yes, but finessed on the palate and bursting with dark fruits and made more interesting with earthy/loamy and spicy overtures through a long finish. This is Malbec at its finest and built to mature gracefully for years to come.
Versado Reserva 2010 ($60, Alberta, B.C., 92 points) — The 2010 version of the Reserva saw a bit more new oak but still shows off the rich, concentrated fruit on the nose with currants, raspberry, toasty vanilla, roasted coffee bean and caramel. On the palate it is rich and bold with maturing dark fruits, anise, spice and black licorice notes on the finish.
Three more international picks from the release Nov. 13 at Vintages
Poggio Verrano Dromos Maremma Toscana IGT 2005 ($40, Vintages Nov. 14, 93 points) — One of the superstars of the release and a bargain for a Super Tuscan. This blend of Cab Sauv., Alicante, Sangiovese and Cab Franc is fully mature and ready to drink yet will continue to evolve. It shows a rich nose of black currants, kirsch, dark mature plums, mineral notes, and integrated wood spices. It is super concentrated and thick on the palate with dark fruits, black licorice, melting tannins and rich, savoury spices delivered on a long, echoing finish.
Giacomo Mori Chianti 2012, Tuscany ($20, Vintages Nov. 14, 91 points) — Another good bargain Italian with a personable nose of savoury red fruits, herbs, spice, nutmeg, earth and raspberry bush. It’s vibrant but nicely mature on the palate with plush tannins, lovely savoury spices and integrated red and dark berries.
Chateau Hauchat Fronsac 2011, Bordeaux ($16, Vintages Nov. 14, 88 points) — For a baby Bordeaux, this is well priced. It’s tight on the nose with medium body and shows savoury blackberries, ripe red fruits, subtle spices and vanilla. It’s round and soft on the palate with red fruits, anise, tar, spice and a perky, vibrant finish.
Niagara wines being released Nov. 14
Stratus Red 2012 ($44, 94 points) — The newest top wine from Stratus is a remarkable blend of 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec, and 3% Tannat that chimes in at a respectable 13.8% alcohol. Off the top, no red wine at Stratus can top this in any vintage; it is the culmination of all the hard work that has gone into the top-down program at the slick and stylish Niagara-on-the-Lake winery. The nose, even in its youth, shows dense and highly aromatic black currants, blackberries, plums, cassis and then oak spices, clove-cinnamon notes and charred vanilla toast. It is so lush, so persistent on the palate, yet it is defined by the richness and purity of the dark layered fruit that is bolstered by lavish spice, grippy tannins and a finessed feel through a long, velvety finish. It is big, no doubt about it, at this stage, but has the power, complexity and grace to reward with 10-20 years in the cellar. A beautiful wine.
Stratus White 2012 ($44, 92 points) — The white assemblage from winemaker J.L. Groux is a blend of 43% Chardonnay, 42% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon. The Chardonnay was picked early, a departure for Stratus, and the wine was aged for 624 days in French oak, 28% of it new. The nose reveals a nice melange of pear, subtle citrus and apple, with creamy-spicy notes that speak to the fine oak aging. The elegance of this blend shows on the palate, a taut and gracious white that reveals its layers slowly; the poached pear, the lanolin, the lemon meringue pie, the minerality and spice. Lovely texture and verve keeps it galloping effortlessly through the finish. Wait for it, cellar a few years.
Bachelder Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 ($45, 92 points) — The Saunders Vineyard has always played a supporting role in comparison to the Wismer Vineyard, but it’s all a matter of style. There are those who disagree with me on this and prefer Saunders to Wismer in the cooler vintages. This is a highly elegant wine, a bit closed at the moment (when tasted well over a year ago) but still imparting spiced apple, creamy vanilla and pear aromas. On the palate, look for layered fruits, stony minerality, oak spice and finesse through the finish.
Rosewood Mead Royale Honey Wine 2014 ($17 for 500 ml, 92 points) — This is a barrel fermented and barrel aged wine made from the honey of bees raised on the estate. The nose shows wildflower honey, creamy pear, lanolin and white flower notes. It possesses such gorgeous texture on the palate with sweet wild honeycomb, almonds, vanilla cream and a smooth, rich delivery through the finish.
Union Forte 2007 ($17 for 500 mL, 89 points) — While Port is a widely recognized style of fortified wine it can only be called Port if it comes from Porto in Portugal. That doesn’t stop winemakers the world over from making that style of wine and dreaming up clever names. The folks behind Niagara’s Union Wines, who are well represented at Vintages/LCBO stores, have come up with a Port-style wine called Forte that is a Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend from Niagara with Ontario Brandy spirit added and is finished with 18% alcohol. It has a heady nose of sweet black cherry, cassis, raspberry, bramble, red licorice and an array of spices. It’s sweet and spicy in the mouth and loaded with red fruits, anise and kirsch and all delivered on a bed of smooth tannins. A very enjoyable after-dinner wine.
13th Street June’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 ($22, 90 points) — Such an interesting expression of unoaked Chardonnay from this personable, distinct vineyard. A nose of pear, apple and lovely wet stone minerality. There’s a creamy feel on the palate with apple and pear fruits bolstered by subtle notes of almond paste, stoney minerality and refreshing, mouth-watering acidity.
Flat Rock Cellars Unplugged Chardonnay 2013 ($17, 88 points) — A nose of pure pear, lemon and just a pinch of jasmine in this unoaked version of Flat Rock’s Chardonnay program. Lovely texture on the palate with flavours of poached pear, citrus and a creamy feel through the finish.
Tawse Growers Blend Pinot Noir 2011 ($25, 91 points) – A gorgeous nose of pure and pretty cherry, currants, small wild berries and raspberry with seamlessly integrated spices. Simply delicious in the mouth with rich and savoury red fruits, spice and smooth, silky tannins. A joy all the way through the finish.
And other wines being released but not reviewed
- Pondview Vidal Icewine 2013 ($20 for 200 mL)
- 13th Street White Palette 2013 ($16)
- Reif Estate Reserve Gewurztraminer 2013 ($19)
- Hidden Bench Terroir Cache Meritage 2011 ($38)
- Strewn Canadian Oak Meritage 2013 ($26)
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