WHAT: Inniskillin Wines (Niagara) 

WHERE: 1499 Line 3, Niagara-on-the- Lake
WINEMAKER: Bruce Nicholson
FOUNDERS: Karl Kaiser, Donald Ziraldo
AVAILABILITY: Winery, LCBO and Wine Rack stores 

WEBSITE: www.inniskillin.com
By Rick VanSickle
Winemaker Bruce Nicholson has wasted no time putting his stamp on the venerable Inniskillin winery. 
 After a 20-year career in the Okanagan Valley making wine and establishing himself as one of the top winemakers in the country, Nicholson returned to his Niagara roots in January 2007.
He was handed the reins of Inniskillin, the house that Karl Kaiser and Donald Ziraldo built, and now a crown jewel in the Vincor Canada portfolio. 
 Nicholson has always admired Kaiser and the world-class wines from Inniskillin, which is known globally for its groundbreaking icewines.
“He’s an icon for me,” Nicholson said, adding he wanted to work for Kaiser 25 years ago for nothing just so he could put on his resume that “he worked for the best. 
 “Little did I know I’d be taking over for him.” 
 Nicholson, originally from Niagara Falls, arrived in time for the full 2007 growing season, the best on record for red wines in Niagara. He moved quickly to put his stamp on the production of Inniskillin wines.
The top end of the portfolio, the Founders’ Series named after Kaiser and Ziraldo, has been renamed the Legacy Series. This has included, until now, the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the winery. 
 Instead, Nicholson has decided to come up with the very best of what the vintage is offering and bottle different wines each year. And, he’ll only make Legacy wines when they’re worth making.
“If we don’t have a legacy quality wine (from a certain vintage), it’s not going to happen,” he said. 
 His first Legacy wines, due out sometime before Christmas, include a 2007 Cabernet Franc from the spectacular 
 Oppenlaender Vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake, and a 2008 Riesling from the Twenty Mile Bench on the Niagara Escarpment.
The red should retail in the low $30s while the white will be in the high $20s. 
 As for a Legacy wine from the 2009 vintage? He says the Pinot Noirs are going to be tremendous but he hasn’t made a final determination. 
 Another stamp on the winery Nicholson has added is a unique icewine that’s made from Chardonnay and aged in Canadian oak. Nicholson said he wanted to put an interesting twist on what Inniskillin is known for.
Here are reviews of some of the top-tiered Inniskillin wines. All wines are available at the winery, Wine Rack and a winter Vintages release unless noted otherwise.
Inniskillin Legacy Series Riesling 2008 (not yet released, $25-$30, 4.5 stars) — A classic, perfectly balanced Riesling with peach, apricot, grapefruit, lemon-lime and honey-mineral notes on the nose. It has surprising length on the palate with balancing acidity and depth of fruit flavours. A beauty.
Inniskillin Legacy Series Cabernet Franc 2007 (not yet released, $30-$35, 4.5 stars) — One of the finest reds Inniskillin has ever made and among the finest from the entire vintage in Niagara. Black raspberry, currants, violet-floral and cedar cigar-box aromas to start. This red has power and grace with substantial fruits and sweet, smoky flavours that are revealed in layers. A plush bed of tannins and long finish as well.
Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards 
 Chardonnay 2008 ($18) — Classic Chardonnay with a nose of apple and spice dressed up in showy vanilla and oak. Lovely in the mouth with upfront citrus-apple fruit and bolstered by rich spices. Shows elegance and balance on the palate.
Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Pinot Gris 2008 ($20, 3.5 stars) — Sweet citrus and peach with added vanilla spice on the nose of this off-dry white. It’s loaded with ripe fruits on the palate and kissed by honey and spice.
Inniskillin Reserve Series Cabernet Franc 2007 ($19, Vintages, Dec. 5) — Generous aromas of fresh raspberry, currants and mocha spices. Delicious on the palate with lush red fruits, wild spices, cocoa and a nice finish.
Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards Pinot Noir 2007 ($23) — 2007 continues to show incredibly ripe red wines. This is a robust Pinot loaded with black cherries and subtle spices on the nose. The big cherry notes are joined by cocoa, earth and vanilla all leading to a long finish.
Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Shiraz-Cabernet 2007 ($25, winery only, 4.5 stars) — A beautiful blend with 75% Shiraz, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc. The nose shows raspberry, cherry, anise, violets and rich, lavish spices. The jammy fruits gush on the palate with interesting smoke, tar and pepper spice notes. A beauty for grilled red meats.
Enjoy!
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