Niagara Wine Reviews

Exploring the single vineyards at Coyote’s Run

Jeff Aubrey.

What: Coyote’s Run Estate Winery
Where: 485 Concession 5 Road, St. Davids
Tastings: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer
Proprietor: The Aubry family
Winemaker: David Sheppard
Specialties: Coyote’s Sun has a strong program in single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from both the Red and Black Paw vineyards. Also makes sensational Chardonnays. But another variety that Jeff Aubry is counting on is Pinot Gris, which, he says, is what consumers want.
Must try: Coyote’s Run Black Paw Chardonnay 2008 is one of the wines chosen to be poured at the Seriously Cool Chardonnay event in London, England. Also try the 2008 Pinot Blanc and single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. And, as a special treat, the gorgeous 2007 Riesling Icewine. It’s a stunner.
Availability: Winery, web,  LCBO/Vintages.
Website: www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Twitter: http://twitter.com/coyotesrun

By Rick VanSickle

Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake
Jeff Aubrey from Coyote's Run with his wine.

Jeff Aubry sees things perfectly in black and red. Especially when it comes to his wines.
With two “polar opposite” vineyards at his Coyote’s Run Estate Winery, Aubry is using the what nature has given him to produce wines with unique and profound differences that his the two key parcels of land — the Red Paw and Black Paw vineyards — deliver. And that philosophy is what motivates Aubrey and his winemaker, David Sheppard.
The two have learned in a short amount of time — the winery only started up in 2004 with the 2003 vintage — that where the grapes are grown, the different soils, is what gives their wines a defining personality.
It’s merely a boundary that separates the Red and Black Paw vineyards but on one side, the soil is made up of black clay while the other is mainly red clay. In simple terms, the Red Paw vineyard produces a more feminine, fruity wine while wines from the Black Paw vineyard are more earthy and masculine. This is especially evident in the wonderful Pinot Noirs made at the estate.
“The Red Paw (wines) tend to be very aromatic with bright fruit, almost feminine in styling. The wines tend to be very fruit forward and upfront with a … smooth finish and not a lot of tannins,” Aubry explains.
“Black Paw is the polar opposite, more muted on the bouquet and the fruit tends to be darker while the middle of the palate is big with that richness, that mushroomy complexity, that forest floor funkiness that you typically associate with Pinot (Noir) and more spice and tannin on the finish.”
Pinot Noir makes up the main Red-Black Paw single-vineyard program but there’s also two Cabernet Francs being made from the same vineyards and, with the 2009 vintage, a Red and Black Paw Chardonnay.

Jeff Aubrey.
In the barrel room at Coyote's Run

Aubry is excited about the future for his Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cab Franc and Merlot programs at Coyote’s Run, named for the wild coyotes that run a trail across the vineyard, but it’s a little variety called Pinot Gris where the businessman in him gets excited.
“I like to grow it, it’s a nice variety and cold hardy,” he says. And there’s enormous consumer demand for it.” Aubry likes his Pinot Gris made in an Alsatian style but on the drier side “not sweet or viscous.” And he expects big things when it hits Vintages this August and his own tasting room in a few weeks.

The entire wine program at Coyote’s Run, located at the base of the St. Davids Bench in one of the warmest microclimates in Niagara, is impressive through the full range of the portfolio.
The winery makes some interesting and unusual wines not commonly found in Niagara such as a delicious Pinot Blanc, a Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc blend and a single-vineyard Syrah. And, also, drawing on the skill of winemaker Sheppard who trained under icewine master Karl Kaiser at Inniskillin, produces a thrilling Riesling icewine.
All the wines in the portfolio are bottled under screwcap — everything, including the icewine — because, as Aubry likes to say: “I have no tolerance for cork taint.”
To that, we say, bravo, Coyote’s Run!
Here are some favourite wines from a full portfolio tasting (all available on the web or winery and as noted below):

Coyote’s Run Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc 2009 ($16, LCBO, 3.5 stars) — Aubry’s a big fan of Alsatian whites and leans toward that style. This has lovely tropical, mango, apple, melon notes to go with vibrancy on the palate.

Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2008 ($18, Vintages in August, web in two weeks, 4 stars) — Definitely not the simple style of Pinot Gris crowding store shelves. This is a substantial Gris with peach, pear and apple notes to go with zingy acidity. It’s round and fleshy but still has pop on the palate. Tasty.

Coyote’s Run Black Paw Chardonnay 2008 ($22, 4 stars) — Coyote’s Run likes to work with different oak barrels to give its wines varying spice notes. This chard is barrel fermented in Hungarian oak and offers up an inviting nose of apple, citrus and vanilla toast. It has a creamy texture in the mouth and the citrus flavours are bolstered by a touch of toffee.

Note: Coyote’s Run will introduce a Red Paw Chardonnay with the 2009 vintage.

Coyote’s Run Pinot Blanc 2008 ($18, 4 stars) — Only 278 cases of this rarely produced (in Ontario) wine was made. The nose is a tropical, spice, pear, musk beauty that carries all the way through the palate. It’s done in an off-dry style with opulent fruits and complementary spice notes.

Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 ($25, Vintages at some point, 3.5 stars) — The Red Paw Vineyard delivers Pinots in a softer, more restrained style. This is delicate and pretty with cherry fruit and vanilla notes. The 2007 vintage of this wine is currently in Vintages.

Coyote’s Run Black Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 ($36, 4 stars) — The Black Paw Vineyard is a complete departure from Red Paw. A wave of mocha, earth, forest floor and black cherry notes jump from the glass. In the mouth, it’s a substantial Pinot with generous black cherry, vanilla, spice and even hints of darker fruits. You can drink this now or save for two or three years.

Coyote’s Run Meritage 2007 ($25, Vintages at some point, 4.5 stars) — A blend of 36% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Franc and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Four-Mile Creek appellation. “To me, this is the total package,” says Aubry. Indeed, what a gorgeous wine that shows off the vintage. Equally impressive is the price tag for a wine of this quality. It starts with rich, ripe blackberry, plums and just a hint of red fruits and spice on the nose. All that richness and spice is totally integrated in the mouth. A polished red that can be cellared for future pleasure.

Enjoy!