Niagara Wine Reviews

Niagara wine veteran returns with a new label

Allan Jackson and

What: Generations Wine Co.

Proprietors: Allan Jackson and Andrew von Teichman have a 50-50 partnership in this new Niagara wine company.

Wine: Two wines are being crafted for sale at the LCBO called Union. One is a multi-blend of red grapes and the other is a multi-blend of white grapes. Both VQA wines will sell for $14 and will be available in August.

The concept: Generations is a virtual winery with grapes sourced from five different Niagara wineries. Allan Jackson is the winemaker.

Available: This August at LCBO stores.

Website: Union Wines

By Rick VanSickle

You just can’t keep a good wine man down.

Allan Jackson and
Allan Jackson and Andrew von Teichman.

As the wine industry in Canada changes, and some of the most influential names in the business find themselves on the outside looking in, there’s only one thing to do: Make more wine under a different label.

Former Vincor CEO Donald Triggs followed up his departure from the company he helped found by moving to the Okanagan Valley and buying a winery on the celebrated Golden Mile Bench. Plans are to open Arise in the summer of 2011 with former Hidden Bench winemaker Jean-Martin Bouchard.

Donald Ziraldo, along with partner Karl Kaiser, started Inniskillin Wines in 1975 after being granted the first winery licence in Ontario since prohibition.

Inniskillin became part of Vincor and was subsequently sold to the big American wine company, Constellation Brands.

Last year, Ziraldo came out with his own label under his name to sell icewine.

And now Allan Jackson, one of the founders of Jackson-Triggs Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, has also gone solo with partner Andrew von Teichman, with a new wine under the Generations Wine Co. umbrella called Union.

Jackson’s new VQA wines — a red and a white — are modelled after the Australian idea of multi-sourcing grapes and varieties that blend well together.

The company owns no vineyards and does not have a winery but has secured grapes from five different wineries in Niagara to produce the two wines that hit LCBO shelves throughout the province next month at the low price point of $14.

The two blends are made in a consumer-friendly, New World style with a price tag designed to attract a younger demographic.

Jackson said the intent is to take “a hand-crafted approach to creating a contemporary, classic wine in an unorthodox fashion.”

Here’s a review of the two wines coming only to the LCBO soon:

Union wines.
Union wines.

Union White 2009 ($14, 3.5 stars) — This is a blend of all the grapes that do well in Niagara — Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and unoaked Chardonnay. Floral and citrus notes on the nose to go along with peach, apple and tropical fruits that carry to the palate. An enjoyable sipper.

Union Red 2007 ($14, 3.5 stars) — I’m quite certain that no other winery is making this blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot and Gamay Noir but somehow all those flavours come together in this likeable wine perfect for the backyard barbecue. Ripe flavours of raspberry, cherry, cassis, earth and savoury notes from the terrific 2007 vintage combined with a nice spicy note make this a nifty and affordable Niagara red.

Some other Niagara wines enjoyed lately:

Calamus White 2008 ($12, winery, web, 3.5 stars) — A blend of Riesling, and both oaked and unoaked Chardonnay, this white shows tropical fruits, peach, lime and sweet citrus notes on the nose. It’s off dry on the palate with lovely fruity flavours and a zesty freshness.

Calamus Calvin’s Cab 2008 ($14, winery, web, 3.5 stars) — A mostly Cabernet Franc Bordeaux-style blend that’s made in a light style. The nose and palate show plenty of fruity berry flavours and subtle oak and spice.

Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2009 ($25, winery, web, 4 stars) — A delicious Alsatian style Gewurz from a biodynamically farmed single vineyard at the winery. So aromatic with honeysuckle, all spice, lychee, musk and grapefruit notes. It’s kissed with a touch of honey on the palate with fine notes of exotic fruit and spice.

Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 ($35, available in September at Vintages or the winery, 4.5 stars) — An astonishingly good Niagara Chard and one to watch for when it’s released this fall. The nose shows pear fruit, vanilla, spice and butterscotch. It’s followed on the palate with creamy, succulent fruit and subtle citrus vibrancy to balance out the fleshy flavours. So fine.

Tawse Sketches of Niagara Unoaked Chardonnay 2009 ($18, winery, web, 3.5 stars) — Tropical, citrus and apple notes on the nose. The palate reveals clean, fresh fruits, good acidity and balance. A perfect wine with shell fish.

Enjoy!