There is no doubt that Alvento Winery, planted on a former cherry orchard on Jordan Harbour in the Lincoln Lakeshore appellation, is making some pretty exciting wines.
And with the strict quality control conditions Elyane and Bruno Moos have imposed on themselves, refusing to make top wines in poor vintages, it’s always exciting when there is a new release as sensational as the 2007 Bordeaux-style reds.
Alvento is still rather new in Niagara. The Moos have been growing grapes at their five-hectare waterfront Vineland estate for eight years but had a couple of setbacks in the early vintages of 2004-2005 after severe winter damage.
The Moos craft three different styles of Bordeaux blends (which will change to two styles beginning with 2008 vintage) as well as a Viognier and a Nebbiolo, one of only two being made in Niagara.
They have promised to produce only ultra high-quality wines or they will not bottle the vintage.
Assistant winemaker Greg Yemen said that starting with the 2008 vintage, Alvento will be releasing two Bordeaux reds instead of three. In 2006 and 2007 Alvento released Alvento Sondra (a 90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc blend), Alvento Emilie (70% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot) and the Alvento Elige blend (65% Cab Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cab Franc). The three Bordeaux blends were originally based on the Bordeaux wines of Pomerol (Sondra), St. Emilion (Emilie), and Medoc (Elige, which was also made in ’04 and ’05).
Starting in 2008, the top-tier Bordeaux red will be called Alvento Meritage (a Merlot, Cab Franc blend) and the other blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab France will be called Alvento Second Avenue Red.
The winery will continue to produce its delicious Viognier and rare Niagara Nebbiolo (the 2007 won’t be released until 2011 and both the ’08 and ’09 are still in barrel).
With the release of the 2007 reds recently, Alvento hopes wine lovers will appreciate these wines as they develop in the bottle. Both the Emilie and Sondra are sensational reds but are young and definitely need time in the cellar to reach their full potential.
Here are tasting notes on both wines, only available in limited quantities at the winery, plus a look at the 2008 Vio (viognier):
Alvento Emilie 2007 ($30, 4.5-5 stars) — Built in the style of St. Emilion but with a higher Cab Franc percentage at 70% with 30% Merlot. It is a stunning wine, starting with notes of cedar, spice, raspberries and oak on the nose to go with gorgeous earthy undertones. Sweet wild raspberries and cherries cover the palate in seductive waves of flavour, adding roasted coffee bean, vanilla, toasty oak tones all on a silky smooth frame. Be patient with this wine, try now but save some for a few years down the road. You’ll be glad you did.
Alvento Sondra 2007 ($27, 4.5 stars) — This is styled after the wines of Pomerol with Merlot (90%) and Cab Franc (10%) in the blend. This is very different than the Emilie with a nose of plums, berries, chocolate, mocha and a bit more approachable in its youth. The mouth reveals wild berries, plum-blackberry notes and layers of cocoa, vanilla and spice. Nicely integrated now but will get even better with a little time in the cellar.
Alvento Vio 2008 ($24, 4 stars) — This 100% Viognier is made sur lie and batonnage style, which provides a more viscous mouthfeel, creamy notes and enhances the flavours and complexity. The nose shows stone fruits, floral notes and wonderful nutty aromas. This is a full-bodied white, powerfully structured with peach, almonds and apricot flavours in a creamy style that will improve with age. Serve only slightly chilled.
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And the new Dolomite from Cave Spring:
Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Dolomite 2009 ($16, winery only, 4 stars) — Cave Spring has a full spectrum of wonderful Rieslings in its portfolio, but one that was only introduced a few years ago, the Dolomite, has been a favourite of mine since its inception. The ’09 version of this wine is the best Dolomite I have tried. The nose provides inviting aromas of grapefruit, lime and ripe, summer peach that mingle with just a hint of stony minerals. The first impression in the mouth is a zesty, vibrant rush of acidity that washes over the palate clearing the way for waves of lime-citrus concentrate and succulent peach flavours.
Enjoy!
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