As sultry, sensuous jazz singer Kellylee Evan ventured into the sun-baked crowd at Hillebrand Estate Winery on a perfect summer’s afternoon, one could be forgiven for getting a little caught up in the moment.
It’s that combination of live jazz against a backdrop of swaying grape vines, a convivial crowd of people who are all smiling, sipping wine, eating, and laughing that makes one forget their inhibitions and just let go. You can’t help but jump to your feet and dance along with Evan.
It’s been just like that, rain or shine, for the 22 years that Hillebrand has presented the popular outdoor jazz (and, in August, blues) in the vineyard festival in Niagara wine country.
Hillebrand turns its grounds into a giant carnival of wine, song and cuisine. It draws an orderly crowd of dedicated jazz and wine lovers who reserve a coveted red recliner in the outdoor Trius Red Lounge in front of the stage or scattered about the property with their picnic baskets full of cheese, olives, charcuterie and baguettes to go with ice-packed bags of Hillebrand wines. Others opt for the more pampered route, with the “Backstage Pass” that includes a sparkling wine reception, a 4-course dinner created just for this event by winery chef Frank Dodd and wines matched by winemaker Craig McDonald. All that and each performer pays you a personal visit in the Vineyard Pavilion after their set.
Whatever the choice of seating the music, wine and venue all conspire to lull you into a surreal state of mind that takes you away somewhere special, to a happy place, for a few hours on a lovely July day.
I was fortunate to be part of a small group to experience the Hillebrand Jazz day as a guest of the Peller (owners of Hillebrand, Peller Estates and Thirty Bench) estates family of wines.
With our hosts, Adine Fabiani (brand manager), Mark Torrance, (director of estate wineries) and Michelle Brisebois (Hillebrand estate manager) our group of wine writers was met at the front gate with a cold glass of Trius Brut. This is how the rest of the day (and evening) unfolded.
After a wee bit of chilled Brut and small talk, we were led inside to Hillebrand’s private tasting room. We passed jazz fans who were noshing and sipping and patiently waiting for the concert to start in a couple of hours.
The gang at Peller wanted to show a representative cross-section of each portfolio from the three estates it owns in Niagara.
First up was Hillebrand with winemaker Craig McDonald taking charge of the tasting. McDonald is a gifted winemaker and presides over more grapes and wines then any other winemaker in Niagara.
McDonald puts the same kind of craftsmanship in entry level wines as he does in the top tier Showcase wines. Here’s what he poured:
Trius Brut NV ($25, 88 points) — Made in the traditional style, this non vintage sparkler from Hillebrand is 70% chardonnay and the rest pinot noir. Plenty of citrus zip on the nose with yeast, apple and toast following. Very nice bubbly with good citrus-apple notes and lively acidity to refresh the palate.
Trius Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($14, 90 points) — Not even considering the price of this stellar SB, McDonald has crafted one amazing wine. Such a wonderful nose of gooseberry, melon, lemon-citrus, herbs, tropical fruits and just a hint of spice from a touch of oak barrel age. It’s fleshy and fruity in the mouth, a by-product of the hot vintage, but maintains its balance. Some garden herbs and kiwi fruit on the edges.
Hillebrand Showcase Ghost Creek Riesling 2010 ($25, 91 points) — Ghost Creek Vineyard is but a stone’s throw from the Hillebrand winery in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. Some would say that making interesting, single-vineyard Rieslings in Niagara-on-the-Lake is difficult to do. They should try this one. Lovely aromatics of grapefruit, wild honey, citrus, orchard fruits and a distinctive thread of wet stone minerality. It’s finished at a light 8% alcohol in an off-dry style but shows its fruit brilliantly on the palate with just even zest to make the mouth water for more.
Trius 2010 Pinot Grigio ($16, 87 points) — McDonald wants to make this varietal in a “Pinot Grigio” style for the Trius brand. By that he means more fresh, forward and Italian style. But his first effort with this variety definitely falls into the “Gris” category with ripe melon, apple and pear notes. It’s soft on the palate with round, ripe and juicy fruits.
Trius Rose 2010 ($16, 87 points) — A blend of Shiraz and Merlot, this bold rose shows rich, red fruits of cherry, raspberry and cranberry that carry through the palate.
Next up was Thirty Bench Wine Makers with Fiona Muckle, estate manager, leading the tasting (with notes from winemaker Emma Garner).
Thirty Bench Riesling 2010 ($18.50, 88 points) — This is a delicious Riesling in a fleshy style showing flint, citrus and lime on the nose. It’s juicy and round in the mouth and shows length through the finish.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Rose 2010 ($22, 88 points) — A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir (I kid you not!). As Garner recently told me: “It’s not one to mess with.” Indeed, an intense nose of bold and meaty red fruits, dare I say “manly” with juicy black cherry and blackberry fruits that carry to the palate. A cold alternative for grilled meats and salads.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Gewurztraminer 2010 ($30, 91 points) — My, what a lavish, exotic treat. This small-production Gewurz, only 132 cases were made, is a low-acid wine with grapes left to hang until mid-October with even some of the fruit developing botrytis. The nose shows poached pear, musk, grapefruit and wild honey, though not finished as a sweet wine. It’s thick and concentrated, like a grand cru Alsatian Gewurz, with layers of complex exotic fruit and spices.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Triangle Riesling 2010 ($30, 91 points) — I have to admit, I do like the Rieslings from 2010 for their immediate appeal. But when these ripe wines are made with a decent amount of acidity, such as the Small Lots, I start drooling. The Triangle has a big, ripe fruity nose of floral, peach, grapefruit, tropical fruits and minerals. It is juicy, fleshy, bold and rife with fruits, minerality and moderate acidity. A rewarding wine to try now and for the next couple of years.
Peller Estates winemaker Lawrence Buhler took us through a mini lineup of Peller wines.
Andrew Peller Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($30, 91 points) — A dramatic followup to the gorgeous 2009 vintage. Rich, bold aromas of tropical fruit, grass, sweet herbs, vanilla and wild spices from partial wild fermentation. This is a textured, layered, weighty SB with fleshy fruits, concentrated flavours of grapefuit, pear and citrus with exciting herbs and grassy notes in the background.
Peller Estates Private Reserve Rose 2010 ($18, 87 points) — A lighter style rose made from 100% Pinot Noir. Shows refreshing red berries from the nose to the palate.
Peller Estates Private Reserve Gamay ($19, 88 points) — A smoky, roasted meat and dark fruit nose on this rustic red. The palate reveals more dark and juicy fruits and spice through the finish.
Peller Estates Signature Series Cabernet Franc 2008 ($38, 92 stars) — Peller only made one Signature Series red wine in 2008 and this is it. The fruit for this Cab Franc spent 20 months in 50% new French and American oak. It shows wonderful black cherry and currant fruit on the nose to go with vanilla, a touch of roasted herbs and spice. Love the fruit that’s beginning to open up.
•••
After our marathon session in the private tasting room, we were herded to the lookout tower, an open-air, intimate perch above the crowd with a bird’s-eye view of the jazz stage. A table had been set up for a long, leisurely evening of food and wine while the soothing sounds of cool jazz from Lily Frost & The Debonairs, Kellylee Evans, Daniel Barnes Quartet featuring Micah Barnes and the Steve Koven Trio plus One played in front of us.
Here’s how the meal, prepared by Hillebrand chef Frank Dodd, played out.
Welcome: Plates of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie.
To start: Tommy Gnomes Farm Tomato Soup, tomato carpaccio, cow’s milk burrata, basil pesto goat’s cheese ice cream, matched to Trius Brut Rose
Next up: Atlantic Scallops, open Berkshire pulled pork ravioli served with Hillebrand Showcase Ghost Creek Riesling 2010
Next: Chioggia Icewine Beets, Monteforte fresh lamb’s milk feta, icewine rhubarb, walnuts, beetroot sorbet paired with Trius Rose 2010
Next: Wellington County Dry Aged Beef Rib Eye, Marc’s foraged mushrooms, goat cheese and truffle tart, zucchini blossom served with Hillebrand Showcase Merlot 2008
To finish: Ontario Farms Trio, strawberry Yogurt Lassi, raspberry white chocolate pate, Trius cherries-cluize chocolate mousse served with Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008.
It was a long meal, brought out slowly over time, and none of us even noticed when the bands had stopped playing and the crowds were packing up and drifting out in an orderly fashion.
An extraordinary experience.
Hillebrand also holds a blues day, this year on Saturday, Aug. 13. You can get more information here.
Enjoy!
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