A pile of international wine reviews that appear in the current issue of Tidings wine magazine.
USA:
87 Sokol Blosser Evolution #14, Non Vintage, USA ($20)
Sokal Blosser makes this irreverent, multi-regional, nine-grape white blend as a non-vintage wine. The “14” refers to the number off vintages made. It’s a fun wine with a nose of tropical fruit, peach, honey, lemon and floral notes. It’s finished slightly off-dry but still shows good acidity with tropical-citrus fruits. Serve with fresh salads and Thai food.
86 Sokol Blosser Meditrina #6, Non Vintage, USA ($20)
This is the same concept as the Evolution, but made with the red grapes Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah. It’s like Pinot Noir on steroids with juicy cherry and raspberry fruit, spice and earth on the nose. It’s bold and peppery on the palate with a bevy of dark and red fruits and a smooth finish. Serve with veal or burgers.
New Zealand:
88 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand ($16)
A grassy-herbaceous nose with grapefruit and gooseberry fruits. In the mouth, it’s lip-smacking good with tart citrus, kiwi and grass notes. Altogether a tangy, fresh and vibrant white that goes nicely with seafood salad, asparagus or fresh pea soup.
87 Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20)
A lovely nose of savoury cherry, earth, mulled red fruits and spice. It’s soft and creamy on the palate with integrated red fruits and a soft, silky finish. Pairs well with duck confit.
France:
89 Domaine de Belliviere Premices 2009, Loire Valley, France ($25)
An exciting Chenin Blanc from the Jasnieres region in the centre of the Loire Valley. The nose shows honey, grapefruit, lemon and white flowers. It’s simply gorgeous in the mouth with stony minerality, quince, citrus and a subtle spice note. It’s off-dry but washed in racy acidity. Perfect with spicy Asian foods.
87 Domaine du Cros (Philippe Teulier) Marcillac Cuvee Lo Sang del Pais 2010, Southwest France, $20
A somewhat rustic and backward red made from the Mansois grape. The nose reveals a basket of red fruits, blackcurrant, pepper, licorice and leafy-bramble notes. It’s unoaked with no discernible tannins on the palate and shows pure fruit flavours of raspberry, currants with just a touch of mint. Try with grilled lamb.
90 Meyer-Fonne Pinot Gris Reserve 2006, Alsace, France ($20)
This is a thick, unctuous Pinot Gris with a nose of pure stone fruits, flowers, minerals and creamy vanilla. It gushes on the palate with peach, apricot, lemon curd, honey and lovely baking spices. A powerful Alsatian beauty. Would pair well with wild mushroom risotto.
87 Francois Mikulski Borgogne Aligote 2009, Burgundy, France ($22)
Made from vines planted in 1929 to 1948, this wine is a pure expression of Aligote with a nose of sharp citrus and mineral notes. It’s bone-dry on the palate with fresh green apple, lemon and stony minerality. Pass the oysters.
90 Jean-Yves Peron VdP d’Allobrogie Champ Levat 2009, Haut-Savoie, France ($25)
A fascinating red wine made with 100% Mondeuse, a rustic version of Syrah, and follows the natural winemaking principals of “nothing added, nothing taken away.” In other words, wild fermentation, no sulphur added, organically farmed vineyards. It shows a crazy-wild nose of fruitcake, spice, cinnamon, cloves, violets, sun-baked raspberry and black currants. In the mouth it’s bone dry, tight and highly acidic with flavours of crushed flowers, loam, mineral, aggressive tannins, peppery spice, raspberry, cranberry and boysenberry. Not for everyone, but a thrill if you’re looking for something different.
86 Bouchard Pere & Fils La Vignee Pinot Noir 2009, Burgundy, France ($17)
A good little introduction to the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy. The nose shows plums, cherries and wild berry notes with just a hint of spice. In the mouth, tart red fruits, spice in a balanced approach that leads to a smooth finish. Enjoy with meat pies and roasts.
Austria:
87 Tegernseerhof Gruner Veltliner T-26 Federspiel 2010, Wachau, Austria ($19)
Groovy Gruner is a rising star in the wine world because it’s such a flavourful and food friendly white wine. It shows aromas of pear, citrus and lovely spice notes. But the real show is in the mouth. Anjou pear, melon, peach and citrus fruits with flinty minerality and crisp acidity through the finish. Serve with sushi.
91 Weingut Michlits Pinot Noir Frizzante Rose 2009, Burgenland, Austria ($20)
A delightful sparkling wine made from organic-biodynamic vineyards in a slightly off-dry style. The nose shows perfectly balanced cherry-raspberry fruits with just a hint of citrus. It has moderate effervescence on the palate with clean and crisp red fruits. A perfect aperitif.
Israel:
87 Tzora Vineyards Neve-Ilan Chardonnay 2009, Judean Hills, Israel ($30)
Hard to imagine Chardonnay being produced in the heat of Israel, but this leading producer has crafted a warm climate Chardonnay that shows nice tropical fruits, pear and creamy vanilla notes on the nose. A hint of citrus flavours emerge on the palate to go with creamy apple, tropical fruits and spice. Surprisingly balanced. Serve with poached salmon or lobster dishes.
Italy:
90 Banfi Colvecchio Syrah 2004 (DOC Sant’Antimo), Tuscany, Italy ($35)
An old-style Syrah with aromas of black currants, cassis, smoke, roasted meats, licorice and pepper. It’s rich and layered on the palate with smoky blueberry and currants, cracked black pepper, firm tannins and lavish spices. Serve with comfort foods such as beef bourguignon, brisket, and hard cheeses.
88 Banfi Col di Sasso 2008 (IGT Toscana), Tuscany, Italy ($16)
It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese with ripe aromas of cherries, herbs, anise, pepper and oak-driven spices. In the mouth, the flavours range from smoked cherry and blackberry fruit to an array of spices all on bed of smooth tannins. Enjoy with pasta in tomato-based sauces.
87 Banfi Fumaio 2009 (IGT Toscana), Tuscany, Italy ($16)
From hillside vineyards in the southern region of Tuscany, this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The nosed is a perfumed mix of fresh tropical fruit, grapefruit, passion fruit and peach with just a hint of herbs. It’s crisp and racy on the palate and through the finish. Serve with shellfish, chicken and light salads.
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