The last time I caught up with Daniel Lenko, he was, to put it bluntly, pissed. Pissed at the Region of Niagara. Pissed at the Escarpment Commission (over sign issues). And pretty much everyone that has anything to do with the layers of bureaucracy in the Ontario wine industry.
It was in the heat of the summer, and as temperatures were rising (both in Niagara and with Lenko), the Beamsville Bench farmer, winemaker and winery owner had just been slapped with an “order to comply” certificate that was pasted on the door of his winery, which houses barrels of wine and the tools of the trade needed to make wine, including the water that does a great deal of the work from cleaning out barrels to the scrubbing of the floors.
Lenko was ordered to cease and desist from discharging winery production waste (which Lenko says is 99% water and 1% wine) into an unapproved septic tank and then discharging that onto the ground surface.
Secondly, Lenko was ordered to apply to the Region for a permit to construct a sewage system and, upon application, submit a detailed design plan from a qualified engineer or sewage systems designer and, upon approval, proceed to install the new system by Sept. 14, 2011.
Lenko said the very same inspector who slapped him with his “order to comply” directive in July had been to Lenko’s winery two other times, in 1999 and 2002, and on both occasions he was told he was in compliance with the regulations (which is why he has a valid licence). Now, all of a sudden, in 2011, said Lenko, his septic system isn’t good enough? He doesn’t understand.
Somehow it was good enough to get a full retail licence, he said. Somehow it was good enough to get a manufacturer’s licence to make wine and sell those wines to the public, he added.
“I’m just looking for answers,” an exasperated Lenko said in August.
Lenko had no choice but to layoff his winery staff (his winemaker, Thomas Laszlo, is now at the Mike Weir winery) while he charted a new course of action.
Sitting in his tasting room this past weekend, Lenko is much calmer and relaxed now. Oh, there’s his feisty side and his concerns for the industry in Ontario, but as for his problems this summer, he says they were all resolved and he’s back in the business of growing fruit, making wine and selling it.
He says he met the conditions of his licence to manufacture wine at his property after working out a compromise with Regional officials.
But the “order to comply” meant he had to make a decision on his 2011 fruit. He ended up selling the entire harvest of white grapes but kept some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make into his popular rose-styled White Cabernet and White Merlot.
“There’s no rule saying you have to make wine every year,” Lenko says, adding the grapes from 2011, in his opinion, wouldn’t have produced the kind of wines he likes to make.
“I don’t have a ‘B’ wine. I just won’t make wine in every vintage.”
Yes, Lenko is back in the game.
One of his projects, the Lenko Unoaked ChardonnGAY, which is sold through the LCBO as well as his winery and website, reached a milestone this month when he handed over a $5,000 cheque to CANFAR, the Canadian Foundation for AIDS Research. A dollar from every bottle of the ChardonnGAY sold goes to AIDS research.
The bottle label on the wine is all dressed up in bright pride colours, and vinified in celebration of Canada’s diverse gay culture, but is essentially the same wine as his “green” label unoaked Chardonnay, and has quickly become a popular seller at the LCBO and winery not only because it tastes good, but also because of the cause behind it.
“We have gay marriage in this country, why not gay wine,” he muses.
I tasted through some of Lenko’s new wines recently, here’s what I liked. (note: the winery is only open by appointment until March.)
Daniel Lenko Unoaked ChardonnGAY 2009 ($20, LCBO, 88 points) — A really lovely and aromatic nose of tropical fruit, bright apples and refreshing citrus. It’s clean and polished on the palate with juicy fruits and firm acidity.
Daniel Lenko Reisling Reserve 2009 ($20, 91 points) — Lenko calls this the favourite Riesling he’s ever made. “It’s like tangerine in a wet, wool blanket,” he says. The fruit for this Riesling is grown alongside the Triangle Block at 30 Bench Winery on the Beamsville Bench. The nose displays grapefruit, orange spritz, mineral, lanolin, citrus and a floral component. It’s laser-sharp and focused on the palate with intense citrus fruits and minerals. Love this style of Niagara Riesling that will age so gracefully.
Daniel Lenko Gewurztraminer 2009 ($25, 88 points) — Lenko is a believer in this grape for Niagara. He has three acres under vine and tends to harvest the grapes earlier than some to maintain the acids and avoid the “over-stated spice rack” flavours that’s often associated with Gewurztraminers. The nose is complex with rose petals, citrus rind, grapefruit, honey and light clove spice. It shows balance on the palate with nice citrus and spiced apple flavours and decent acidity. Show age well.
Daniel Lenko Old Vines Chardonnay 2008 ($30, 91 points) — Made from vines planted in 1959, which Lenko says is the oldest planting of Chardonnay in Canada. The wine is barrel fermented and barrel aged in French oak for 12 months. What a beauty! Gorgeous pear, citrus, butter, vanilla toast and spice on the nose … and it’s just starting to open up. This delicious Chard is all about the finesse on the palate with fruit, butterscotch, minerals and acid coming together seamlessly. A lovely expression of Chardonnay.
Daniel Lenko White Cabernet 2009 ($20, 89 points) — The “white” Cabernet is made in the rose style. It’s a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot made in what he considers off-red vintages (2008, 2009, 2011, for example). He playfully calls the White Cabernet the “crack cocaine of wine” with an appealing nose of raspberry, strawberry, small dark berries and just a hint of sweetness. It’s fresh and ripe on the palate with juicy red berries and a smooth feel through the finish.
Daniel Lenko White Merlot 2009 ($20, 90 points) — The Merlot version of the roses is another delicious wine in Lenko’s war chest. Red fruits, yes, but also some meaty plum and darker fruits with plenty of verve and energy on the palate. It’s equally at home with food or for sitting on the porch passing away the evening with good friends.
Enjoy!
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