It was Jeff Hundertmark’s destiny to make the wines at Marynissen Estate Winery. One sip of the legendary 1991 Marynissen Lot 31 Cabernet Sauvignon and that was it for the 49-year-old winemaker. “It was an epiphany for me,” he says.
From that first taste, Hundertmark started following the wines made by the legendary Niagara pioneer, John Marynissen, who died in 2009, while also working his way through various wine-related jobs and ventures in Ottawa.
In 2005 Hundertmark decided to follow his true calling and enrolled in Niagara College’s winemaking program. His first job out of college was at Coyote’s Run before taking the job he coveted at Marynissen in Niagara-on-the-Lake as the assistant winemaker.
Hundertmark joined the winery just as John Marynissen’s daughter, Sandra, was taking over the winemaker duties and didn’t spend a lot of time with the founder of Marynissen, who was the first person to plant Cabernet Sauvignon for commercial use in Canada. Those vineyards are still farmed today and remain the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Ontario.
Cabernet Sauvignon forms the backbone for the wines made at Marynissen.
Hundertmark is also about to realize another dream — that of releasing a wine under his own label. He and his wife, Kimberly, started the virtual winery 100 Marks with the first release this spring of the 100 Marks Red 2010, a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay.
Hundertmark says he feels grateful that he has been allowed the freedom to pursue his dream of owning a brand while working full-time at the winery.
The new 100 Marks wines are made under the Marynissen licence but Hundertmark rents space and equipment to make the wines.
He calls it a “great relationship” not only with Marynissen but also with grape growers in Niagara who seem to constantly face a glut of grapes.
I sat down with Hundertmark recently to taste through some current releases from the Marynissen portfolio and to get a pre-taste of his first 100 Marks Red, which won’t be released until later in the spring.
The Marynissen winery has always held back its red wines for release and is currently on the fabulous 2007 vintage wines, which are noted for their big, ripe and full flavours.
Here’s what I liked from the tasting:
Marynissen Summer Solstice 2010 ($15, 87 points) — A blend of Gewurztraminer and Riesling that is highly aromatic with grapefruit, citrus and lychee on the nose. It’s quite juicy on the palate with fresh fruit and decent acidity. As the name suggests, a good summer sipper.
Marynissen Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($16, 88 points) — A fruit-driven, barrel fermented, barrel-aged Sauvignon Blanc with tropical fruit and vanilla-inspired spices on the nose. Wonderful mouthfeel and fleshy fruits on the palate with just the right amount of spice.
Marynissen Merlot 2007 ($23, released this summer, 88 points) — Shows concentration of fruit on the nose including raspberry-cherry jam and black currants to go with a myriad spice and oak notes. It’s very tight at the moment on the palate with tannic structure, licorice and red fruits and plums beginning to emerge. Another big, 07 red from Marynissen that needs time to open up.
Marynissen Syrah 2007 ($25, 92 points) — Built like a Rhone warrior with a funky nose of game, roasted meats, earth, cassis, Cuban cedar cigar box, and dark fruits that come at you in waves. In the mouth it shows power and structure with currants, blueberry, boysenberry, white pepper and firm tannic structure. It’s big, bold and beautiful.
Marynissen Cabernet Franc 2007 ($29, 91 points) — Simply gorgeous Cabernet Franc. All the fruit for this wine is from Lot 66 and is made unfiltered at 14.3% alcohol. The nose shows cassis, currants, plums, licorice, raspberry and toasted oak notes. It has wonderful concentration and grip on the palate with layers of fruit and spice and the potential to develop for a decade or more in the cellar.
Marynissen Solstice Red 2007 ($22, 90 points) — The story for this wine goes like this:
On Dec. 22, 2007, Marynissen marked the beginning of a new wine’s life; 23 barrels were filled with Merlot, 11 barrels were filled with Syrah, and 10 barrels with Cabernet Sauvignon. For a year those wines remained in darkness developing concentration of fruit, structure and balanced finesse. On Dec. 21, 2008, those wines were brought back into the light and blended together to begin a celebration of renewal.
It’s a blend of 52% Merlot- sourced from Lot 31 vineyard, planted in 1978, 25% Syrah, sourced from Lot 31 vineyard, planted in 2002 and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Lot 31 vineyard, planted in 1978.
The nose shows the ripeness of the vintage with plums, red fruits and toasted vanilla and spice. In the mouth, it’s just starting to all come together with ripe red and dark fruits, a touch of pepper, layered spices, firm tannins and length through the finish. Drink now if you decant it or tuck away in the cellar for a few years.
100 Marks Red 2010 ($35, released in April, not rated) — This wine hasn’t been bottled yet, so it has not been scored. It will be a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Gamay made in the style of Passetoutgrain, a Burgundian wine that combines the elegance of Cote d’Or Pinot Noir with the rich, spicy Gamay of Beaujolais. The only other winery in Canada I know of making this style is Joie Farm in the Okanagan. I love the nose of currants, sweet cedar-vanilla, kirsch, cassis extract, black cherry, smoke and cocoa. The mouth shows the earthiness of the style, pretty decent acidity (considering the vintage), ripe tannins and lush fruits and spice. Can’t wait to see this wine in its competed form.
Enjoy!
Comment here