By Brian Yeo
During the last couple weeks, as Rick our kind host here on Wines in Niagara, was traversing the Crus of Burgundy I have found myself diligently scouring the LCBO website for the latest additions and availabilities to the Spring Seasonal Beer Release.
At the time of this posting, 11 of the 13 beers that encompass this release have now found their way onto shelves throughout Ontario with most, if not all, being worthy of tasting. But it was a couple of takes on Belgian-styled beers, one hailing from Italy and the other from Quebec which really got my beer-geek on last week.
Panil Barriquée Sour-Birrificia Torrechiara Di Losi Giuseppe (LCBO 210591 $14.05 750 ml 9.6% abv) — I’ll admit it . . . I Love sour beers! So when I saw that the Panil Barriquée Sour was coming to Ontario I knew I would be searching out this sultry Italian charmer.
The Panil is styled after the Flanders Red sour ales of Belgium which themselves are related to lambics whose “charms” are derived from wild yeasts and bacteria.
Panil is a triple fermented beer with primary fermentation taking place in stainless steel followed by transferring the beer to French Cognac barrels for secondary fermentation and aging and then lastly a third fermentation in bottle and further conditioning.
It is, however, the secondary fermentation where all the sour magic takes place. During this time the beer ferments through interaction with numerous wild yeasts including Brettanomyces (did all you wine folk just shiver and think you smelled something poopy?) and bacteria such as Lactobacillus and Pediococcus.
It is the two bacteria which produce the distinctive sourness in the beer through production of lactic acid while the Brett increases the presence of acetic acid and delivers some earthy funk to the flavour profile.
Panil pours a hazy golden red hue with minimal head and delivers aromas of red plum, sour cherry, cola nut, vanilla, spice, sherry vinegar and a very subtle mushroom funk. The beer has a very light carbonation but delivers an exhilarating tingle from the acetic sharpness and carries through to a lingering tart cherry finish and slight alcohol warming.
If you are unfamiliar with the world of sour beers than the Panil is a great starting point that delivers a clean approachable style devoid of many of the “acquired tastes” oft associated with some of the classic Belgians. As well, it is not often that we see this style of beer coming through the LCBO so take advantage of it while you can.
* Recommended
Sainte-Reserve Lupulus-Microbrasserie Charlevoix (LCBO 270389, $11.65 for 750 ml, 10% abv, note: LCBO website lists it at 8% abv) Humulus lupulus-Common Hop — I think you can see already where this is going to lead us . . . Microbrasserie Charlevoix has always been one of those breweries that have impressed me with their utter commitment to their craft and consistency in turning out inspired takes on classic Belgian beers.
So when I began hearing about the Sainte-Reserve Lupulus through the on-line communities I knew I needed to see what all the fuss was about and was indeed pleasantly surprised to see its inclusion on the LCBO release schedule.
Now in terms of fuss, it certainly has nothing to do with the quality of the beer as Lupulus has consistently received stellar ratings. Where it lies is in what exactly is the style of this beer with discussions moving between is it a Belgian Strong Ale or a double IPA.
The answer, to me, is yes to both and therein lies the brilliance of Lupulus, it is a blend of the best of both worlds! To the Belgian side we are given a full-bodied 10% abv brew loaded with spicy notes from Saaz hops and Belgian yeasts balanced nicely by 70 IBUs of floral, citrus character from the Amarillo and Simcoe hops that are so reminiscent of West Coast Double IPAs from the States. This all in all is a fitting tribute to Humulus lupulus.
Sainte-Reserve Lupulus comes into the glass showcasing a rich hazy golden straw colour with a rapidly expansive pure white head which slowly recedes to a persistent soft white froth.
Aromas of honey, tangerine and lavender layer exquisitely with cardamom, clove and soft pine resin. The mouthfeel is rich and powerful carrying all the flavours through a lasting delicious finish. Being that this beer carries a big punch, the alcohol is superbly integrated and reveals itself only through a gentle warming of the chest on the way down. Throughout this beer provides a brilliant example of power, finesse, and balance
Without a doubt, the Sainte-Reserve Lupulus is one of the true superstars of the LCBO spring release and worthy of picking up a few to cellar or simply to share.
If I do have one qualm with this beer it lies in it being packaged in a green bottle and the potential for destructive light rays to turn a beer of beauty into one massive skunkbomb.
* Highly Recommended!!
Note: In my first post to Wines in Niagara I provided a look at the Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock from Germany. In the recent World Beer Awards held in Europe this beer was awarded Best Beer in the World amongst its 3 awards. Get out and try some while you can!
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