By Michael Lowe
The fourth annual Iron Chef Niagara competition, held Feb. 29 at Johnny Rocco’s in Niagara Falls, got off to a rousing start with four chefs going head-to-head hoping to secure a spot in the semi-final round.
Proceeds from ticket sales go to a group of local charities — Project Share, the Niagara Health System Foundation, Pathstone Mental Health (formerly Niagara Child and Youth Services), and Hospice Niagara. Again this year local businesses stepped up to the plate with generous donations to help ensure a successful outcome.
For each round of competition the chefs are told in advance what protein will be the star of their dishes. Rounds one and two each feature two chefs preparing shrimp and two chefs showing off striploin of beef compositions. A few days prior to the event chefs are given a secret ingredient that must be incorporated into their showpieces.
The task of judging the chef’s creations falls on the shoulders of the hungry diners in attendance. Diners are asked to score each dish based on three categories, presentation, taste and originality in the incorporation of the secret ingredient, awarding up to a total of 50 points (see official score sheet, top photo).
The $65 entrance fee ($85 for the final round) is a fantastic deal — you get one each of the four entrées, with wine included, dessert and coffee. After assisting chefs at prior Iron Chef Niagara contests, this was my first time on the receiving end and I have to say that being in the “front-of-the-house” is as much fun as toiling in the kitchen.
Excitement ramps up as the chefs take to the kitchen, each in turn, to finish and plate their creations as video of the action is fed to large screens in the dining area. Volunteers from the charity organizations line up at the “pass,” picking up plates and hurrying them to the tables.
The first shrimp dish up is a beautiful combination comprised of four elements created by Chef James Cuttriss, Executive Chef at the Stonemill Ballroom in St. Catharines.
A bite-sized shrimp cake with zesty lime (the secret ingredient) aioli, spicy shrimp bisque, lime-charred shrimp on porcini risotto, and a tropical fruit “gusto” (salsa). High marks for presentation and taste make Chef Cuttriss’ plate a tough act to follow.
Next to arrive is Chef Jeff Hicks‘ (Bistro Six-One, Niagara-on-the-Lake) crispy shrimp encased in risotto and coated in panko bread crumbs (a kind of a take on the Italian arancini).
Contrasting textures are nice but I find that the neutral flavour of the risotto really needs the help of the sauces and crunchy “slaw” to carry it through so I score it second to Chef Cuttriss’ dish. Both plates are wonderful paired with Creekside’s fresh and lively Sauvignon Blanc.
Chef Matt Atkinson, Executive sous-chef at Remington’s of Niagara, puts a southwestern spin on his beef strip loin by dusting it with chili before cooking. The beef sits atop a mashed sweet potato (the secret ingredient) cake (similar to rosti), is topped with corn and pepper salsa and served with a slightly piquant poblano pepper sauce.
His dish scores well on presentation and I think the flavours are a bit muted, but it seems to be well received by fellow diners including my good friend, former Iron Chef Niagara champ Darren Stoute.
The second beef dish, from chef/owner Shawn Murphy of Niagara Catering, is Italian inspired. He uses the secret ingredient to create tender gnocchi, adds some pancetta for saltiness and marries the primary components with a velvety, shallot and gorgonzola cream and a chocolate infused demi-glace.
It’s clear that the beef contest will be a close one but I vote in favour of Chef Murphy’s rich, deftly seasoned flavours and classic presentation. Both beef dishes were paired with Creekside Shiraz, a formidable partner.
In the end, when the ballots are tabulated, the nod to advance is given to Chef James Cuttriss and Chef Matt Atkinson (who won by just one point).
Round two goes on March 28 at Johnny Rocco’s in St. Catharines where two more chefs will be chosen to participate in the semi-finals. The final event is always a great time so get your tickets early to avoid disappointment. Call 905-358-0004 or 905-680-9300 to reserve your spot.
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