I have a front patio, and, I’m not bragging or anything like that, but it’s a lovely brick patio with four well-worn Muskoka chairs.
In the spring the wisteria cascades from the pergola in a riot of purple blooms and offers a bucolic sanctuary just out of view from the neighbours who stroll down the quiet street we live on.
It is our refuge from the indoors, our quiet place, where the bottle of wine we choose to enjoy better be fresh and interesting but never so complicated that it takes away from the bliss of a peaceful afternoon or evening just whiling away the time.
I have found a new bottle that has that front patio written all over it. It is the Tawse Gamay 2011, the first Gamay ever released by the Vineland winery, and, my, oh my, what a beauty.
It is sourced from the Huebel Vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake and sees light oak aging. It is the kind of Gamay that blends into my lifestyle. It doesn’t hit you over the head with complicated nuances and intricate oak stylings. It is just a fresh, everyday, porch-sipping wine (with only 12% alcohol) that you can sit and drink casually all night long (and still walk confidently when it’s time to go inside).
This is my new porch-sipper.
Now, onto the question of Gamay becoming the new “it” wine in Niagara. There have been more than a few wine critics who are touting Gamay as the perfect Niagara wine, the one that wineries should hang their hats on.
I agree that Gamay has potential in Niagara. There are already some fine examples and more and more seem to making an appearance. But looking at if from a winery’s perspective, I don’t think they’ll attract much of a crowd to their tasting rooms if Gamay is what you are all about.
Gamay at its best is a fun wine for sipping, for getting the party started. It is what you enjoy before the big event. It’s what you put on the table to get the conversation going. Gamay is drinking wine, pure and simple.
Niagara’s destiny lies in these core four varietals: Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. The rest is just rounding out the portfolio (to varying degrees of success). But, don’t get me wrong, Gamay is a nice roundness to have.
Here are some new release reviews from Tawse, including the new Gamay, as well as some new wines from Reif Estate.
Tawse Gamay 2011 ($19, winery now, Vintages on March 2, 89 points) — A nose of pure raspberry fruit with cherry accents and subtle forest floor. It’s wonderfully fresh and soft on the palate with juicy red fruits, light oak and a lick of licorice on the finish. The ultimate porch sipper? Yes.
Tawse Estate Van Bers Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2009 ($50, winery, Vintages Classics summer catalogue, 91 points) — From older vines between 15 and 20 years old, the Van Bers spends 24 months in French barriques, 30% of which is new oak. The nose shows black cherries, currants, tobacco leaf, raspberry, cedar and spice. The tannins are ripe and firm in the mouth with red and dark fruits, stewed herbs, a touch of earth and good poise and polish through the long finish. Show some love for this classy Cab Franc and tuck it in the cellar for a few years.
Tawse Estate David’s Block Merlot 2010 ($50, winery, Vintages Classics catalogue in October, 92 points) — About as perfect a vintage as you will find in Niagara for single-variety Merlot. You just want to melt into this super-juicy, super-concentrated Merlot. The aromas range from succulent black cherries and currants to vanilla toast, Damson plums, smoke and riveting spices. It builds on the palate with smoky red fruits, licorice, tar, darker fruits and medium soft tannins. It is rich and textured, not at all flabby, but will benefit, like all top Bordeaux varieties in Niagara from 2010, with time in the cellar.
Tawse Estate Meritage 2010 ($60, winery, 91 points) — Sourced from David’s Block, Hillside and Van Bers vineyards, this meritage is a blend of 46% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged for 24 months in French oak, 20% of which was new. You have to view this wine in the context of 10 years down the road. It has the stuffing to last beyond that, but like all great meritages from this vintage, it simply needs time to fully integrate, to calm down and come into balance. It is rich and ripe on the nose with cherry, cassis and currant fruits surrounded by fresh loam, tar, dark chocolate and licorice. It is a beautiful wine on the palate, with ripe, evident tannins, depth of fruit and earth, barrel spices and plenty of acidity to give it a fresh and energetic feel through the finish. Needs time before the full potential of this big wine is realized.
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And some new releases from Reif Estate, all available at the winery, or here at WineSplash.
Reif Estate Pinot Grigio 2011 ($17, 87 points) — Aromas of Bosc pear, peach, apples, sweet citrus and ripe melon. It’s made in a lovely ripe style with a touch of sweetness that’s balanced out by zingy acidity. Perfect spring/summer sipper.
Reif Estate Chenin Blanc 2011 ($19, 88 points) — Very few Ontario wineries make this delightful variety, which is a shame as it is such a great wine with a variety of foods. The nose shows melon, bold apple, lush tropical fruits, a whiff of honey and light herbs. It’s vibrant and fresh on the palate with a full apple fruit attack and added grapefruit, lemon and just a kiss of honey.
Reif Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2010 ($20, 88 points) — A nicely matured Chardonnay with spicy poached pear, scorched vanilla and toast, apple pie and caramel notes on the nose. The flavours are broad on the palate with tasty integrated fruit, butterscotch cream, sweet oak spices, pear, apples and a splash of citrus to keep it fresh through the finish.
Reif Estate Cabernet Merlot 2011 ($14, 86 points) — The nose delivers bright cherry-raspberry jam aromas with a light dusting of spice and oak. It’s a lighter style but shows jammy red fruits and touches of earth, spice and soft tannins. Good little patio sipper for near-term drinking.
Reif Estate Vidal Select Late Harvest 2011 ($20 for 375 ml, 90 points) — A well-made late harvest wine at a bargain price. It has classic notes of apricot and peach on the nose with honey and cream, and just a whiff of tangerine in the background. Lovely texture and verve on the palate with flavours of apricot compote, sweet peaches and cream and a touch of ginger.
Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2011 ($47 for 375 ml, 93 points) — Textbook Vidal icewine with mango, peach, apricot, buckwheat honeycomb, cream and exotic spice aromas on the nose. The luxurious sweet fruits are broad and textured on the palate with a nice creamy and lush feel through the finish. Beautiful peach, apricot and tropical fruits with just a touch of candied orange rind lead to a super-long finish. Beautiful icewine.
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