The appropriately named Wildass wines from Stratus dare to be different. And it excels in that brilliantly.
Both of the new releases, the rose (on Vintages shelves Saturday as part of a large rose selection) and the red assemblage (Vintages now), are quirky blends that definitely stand out in a crowd.
It’s all about the grape components at Stratus and both the new wines take a wild approach to the finished wine. The red blends Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Sangiovese into a kick-ass concoction that gets your full attention.
The rose blend, the likes of which you won’t find anywhere else on the planet Earth, gets its personality from Gamay, Syrah, Malbec, Cab Franc and Semillon and then is barrel aged for 95 days in slightly used oak barrels. Crazy, yes, but built for wine lovers who like to take a little walk on the wild side.
As a further note to the Red assemblage, the 2011 vintage was a challenge for red varietals in Niagara, so much of the Stratus red vineyard was declassified. The Wildass Red 2011 was a beneficiary of some of the top red fruit from Stratus going into the blend.
Here are reviews for the Wildass wines plus what’s new at Vintages from Niagara on Saturday.
Wildass Rose 2012 ($20, Vintages Saturday, 90 points) — As mentioned above, a kick-ass effort here; a non-conforming and defiant rose that is everything you wouldn’t expect from a rose but everything we have come to expect from Stratus winemaker J.L. Groux. It makes a bold opening statement with all manner of red berries, pomegranate, summer herbs and flowers and a whiff of fresh-baked strawberry-rhubarb pie. Things get a little more serious on the palate with flavours of raspberry tart, black cherry and spicy plum that’s complex and weighty (for a rose). This bad boy is finished with 14.5% alcohol, so, stay in the shade and sip happily away.
Wildass Red 2011 ($20, Vintages, 89 points) — This assemblage benefits from the challenging 2011 vintage as much of the Stratus red vineyard was declassified into this wine. The nose shows ripe wild berries, raspberry, cassis, toasted oak (100% aged for 246 days in 11% new barrels), vanilla, spice and touches of licorice and smoke. It’s quite rich on the palate with a foundation of red fruits to go with bramble, spice and grippy tannins thought the long finish. A nice wine for $20.
Also at Vintages Saturday:
Henry Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2010 ($25, Vintages, 90 points) — Baco Noir in the hands of the right winemaker and grown in the right vineyards is such a wonderful and different grape that can be crafted into a flavourful and untamed wine. The nose reveals the beauty of this grape from the outset — aromas of blackberries, currants, bramble/underbrush, BBQ smoke and earthy tones all come together beautifully. The jammy, dark fruits are intense on the palate with touches of raspberry on the edges to go with refreshing acidity and complementary spices.
Not reviewed but released Saturday:
• Sketches Rose 2012 ($16)
• 13th Street Pink Palette 2012 ($15)
• Cave Spring Estate CSV Chardonnay 2010 ($19)
• GreenLane Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2011 ($18)
• Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($17)
• Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2011 ($19)
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