Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Pillitteri Estates Winery celebrated its 20thanniversary in Niagara a couple of weeks ago and what a treat it was to help them mark the occasion.
Charlie Pillitteri (in top photo) decided to offer all who visited the winery on June 8 some special and rare bottlings he had tucked away deep in the cellar.
Consumers rarely get a chance to taste old Niagara wines and, in my opinion, miss out on the lovely flavours these cool-climate wines can deliver with a little patience.
I got there early to taste the show-stopper wines — a 1997 Riesling, a reserve Cabernet Franc from 1999, and the pièce de résistance, the 2002 Reserve Trivalente that was presented in three sizes, the 750 ml, magnum and an extremely rare (only three bottles made)15-litre bottle.
A 15-litre wine bottle is called a Nebuchadnezzar in wine-speak and holds the equivalent of 20 bottles of wine. Pillitteri told me that two bottles were sold, one to someone in Tampa Bay, Fla. and the other to someone in Beijing. He priced the 15-litre bottle at $4,250 but on the anniversary opened the giant bottle and free-poured for a steady stream of guests who came for the celebration.
Both the 750 ml ($198) and the magnum ($378) can be purchased at the winery.
All three of the wines poured were exquisite examples of how well Niagara wines age. Here’s what I liked:
Pillitteri Riesling 1997 — A nose of sweet lemon, petrol, peach and quince that still had some spunk on the nose. It was softer in style on the palate with ripe lemon-lime and mineral-petrol notes that were lifted by the last bit of acidity still hanging on. Delicious stuff.
Pillitteri Family Reserve Cabernet Franc Reserve 1999 — Brick red colour with damson plum, mature cherry, integrated cedar-wood aromas and soft, mellowed spices. It’s gorgeous on the palate with a jolt of red fruits, sweet spices, caramel, cocoa and soft tannins.
Pillitteri Family Reserve Trivalente 2002 (in 750 ml and magnum) — 2002 was a particularly stunning year in Niagara and the Trivalente represents the best of the best from Pillitteri. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. I tried both the 750 and magnum but didn’t hang around long enough for the Nebuchadnezzar. The 2002 vintage, for those of you who can’t remember, delivered wines in two camps from the Bordeaux varietal side of things: the highly tannic monsters where the fruit couldn’t keep up with the tannins and the wines with a bit less tannins (re: better tannin management) that are just coming into balance with the fruit now. Trivalente is definitely in the latter category. What a thrilling nose of rich red fruits, well-integrated herbs, kirsch, black pepper, nutmeg and currants. The tannic structure is still evident but the lavish fruit is the defining element in this red. Think cherries, raspberries, stewed herbs, cedar and spices all in glorious harmony. This wine is drinking brilliantly at the moment; the 750 ml bottle has hit prime time and the magnum has even more life left.
A real treat to try these wines.
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Canada Day wines from Vintages
There’s a pretty hefty Canada Day release at Vintages on Saturday with 10 offerings from Niagara alone.
I was a bit disappointed to see the cover of the Vintages magazine featuring wines of the Rhone for this release, considering it’s Canada’s birthday, but, what can you do?
Here’s what to look for in stores on Saturday.
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2010 ($30, 90 points) — Winemaker Sébastien Jacquey worked hard on this warm vintage to preserve the freshness that he desires in both his Chardonnays and Pinots. That meant earlier picking of the grapes (for acidity) and less oak treatment in the finished wine. The wine on the nose is appealing for its range of apple and citrus fruits that are integrated with soft vanilla and spice. It’s a broad, generous, almost voluptuous style of Chard with ripe, forward fruits that caress the palate without being fat or weighty. It is packed with extracted fruit through the finish but balanced out by decent acidity and a deft touch with the oak and wood tannins.
Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2011 ($25 for 200 ml, 93 points) — Textbook Vidal icewine with mango, peach, apricot, buckwheat honeycomb, cream and exotic spice aromas on the nose. The luxurious sweet fruits are broad and textured on the palate with a nice creamy and lush feel through the finish. Beautiful peach, apricot and tropical fruits with just a touch of candied orange rind lead to a super-long finish. Beautiful icewine.
Creekside Laura’s Red 2010 ($20, 89 points) — The Laura tier of wines at Creekside has been a success story for the winery. Both the red and white blends have been known for their quality at a reasonable price. The 2010 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Malbec shows an expressive nose of black cherries, currants, toasted vanilla spice and roasted coffee bean notes. It’s a fruit forward wine on the palate with bold raspberry-cherry fruit, with touches of bramble, mocha and vanilla to go with ripe tannins and a smooth finish.
Some other Niagara wines being released but not reviewed:
• Vineland Estate Pinot Meunier 2011 ($18)
• Lakeview Cellar Cabernet Franc Icewine 2011 ($30 200 ml)
• Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2012 ($20)
• Flat Rock Unplugged Chardonnay 2012 ($17)
• Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2010 ($16)
• Rosewood Estates Semillon 2011 ($18)
• Tollgate Merlot 2010 ($25)
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Two summer wines from Kacaba
I tried a couple of new summer releases from Vineland’s Kacaba Vineyards and Winery recently.
I was impressed with their unoaked Chardonnay that, to me, was made exactly how you should make this grape without the use of oak — fresh, fruity, clean, good acidity and delicious.
It’s a style that I think can do well in Niagara if wineries concentrate on putting their top fruit into these wines as it appears Kacaba has done here.
Kacaba Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 ($15, LCBO, winery, 89 points) — A beautiful fruit-driven nose of apricot, tropical fruits and peach. It’s a full-on fruit attack with apricot, mango and peach with just a touch of minerality and a kiss of sweetness. A clean, ripe, tasty Chard at a great price.
Kacaba Rebecca Rose 2012 ($15, LCBO Aug. 3, winery, 88 points) — I love the bright salmon pink colour in this Cabernet Franc rose. The nose highlights raspberries, watermelon, cherries and a squeeze of citrus fruits. It’s bright and perky on the palate with lovely integrated red fruits delivered in a near-dry style. A great summer sipper.
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