Well, another wine vintage is slowly making its way into barrels and bottles around Ontario and it’s that time of the year where we look backwards to predict the future.
It’s a mug’s game, to be sure, but it’s a chance to look at what the vintage may have in store for consumers and a look back at past vintages and how they are evolving. The chart is at the bottom of this post and has been updated back to 2003.
Before we get to the chart, a few thoughts on the state of the wine industry in Ontario, at least the way I see it.
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Record harvest, deep freeze, sweet success
The 2013 vintage had its share of wild and whacky weather but when it was all said and done, it was announced as a record-breaking harvest with 79,756 tonnes of grapes hauled in with a value $99.7 million.
Added to that was well over 6,000 tonnes of grapes netted in the autumn and left to be harvested for Ontario’s icewine production, most of which is now picked and pressed and waiting to be made into that sweet elixir Canada is famous for. At least one winery, Pillitteri, announced a record icewine haul from 2013 grapes, a good sign for sweet wine producers in Ontario.
Wineries are fortunate to have a record grape haul; they might need it as plummeting temperatures (-20 and colder) in January caused a fair bit of bud damage, especially in Niagara, that has the potential to have a severe impact on the harvest in 2014. Up to 15% of the previous vintage can be blended into the current vintage, according to VQA rules.
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Another year, another epic fail from the
Ontario government on the VQA wine front
The Ontario wine industry continues to evolve, finding its place in the wine world and slowly making headway despite the challenges of working in an environment that’s not exactly conducive to rapid growth on the retail front.
Let’s see, it’s hard to keep up with the pace of change as “friend of the Ontario wine industry” Premier Kathleen Wynne turns all her energy into getting more Ontario wines into the hands of those who want them.
Let’s rehash the giant steps (sarcasm alert) forward the Ontario government took in 2013:
• Coming soon to a farmer’s market near you! At some point (maybe even this spring, if we are blessed) wineries will be able to sell their wines at farmer’s markets, thanks to the hard of work of Ontario’s No. 1 wine fan, Kathleen Wynne. We have no idea of the rules yet but we do know a few things for certain:
1) Big deal, who cares?
2) Who in their right mind is going to flog a few bottles of wine down at the local farmer’s market in the blazing hot sun (or any other weather)? It’s not practical for any winery but the smallest of the small.
3) It’s a hollow, token gesture that would be a nice add-on if we didn’t have such draconian liquor laws to begin with in this province.
• Yipee! Here’s a good one. The government is going to put little LCBO Express kiosks inside grocery stores to make wine, beer and liquor purchases more convenient to customers.
The mini-LCBO outlets will be opened over the next 12 months in as of yet undetermined locations and are designed to give wineries more space to sell their VQA wines.
So, let me understand this. The same limited selection that we now have at the LCBO for VQA wines will be extended to grocery stores where we already have Peller and Constellation Brands (an American company, by the way) kiosks. Does this make sense to anyone but the government? Sure, go ahead and put booze in grocery stores, but don’t for a second think this is the answer to what Ontario wineries really want and need.
• Love this one. Wynne announced that she is setting up a “wine secretariat” — led by (guess who?) Wynne and veteran cabinet minister Jim Bradley — to reduce red tape and help grape growers and wineries be more competitive. Wynne has already proven that she will never think outside the box or even entertain forward thinking on booze reform, so for her to be leading a wine secretariat for change to Ontario’s antiquated liquor laws is questionable at best. Add Jim Bradley, an MPP who tows the party line and is the greatest fence sitter in the history of fence sitters, and you have a wine panel doomed to failure from the get-go.
The Ontario government, and not just Wynne’s regime, every regime of every political stripe that has come before her since Prohibition, just doesn’t get it. They simply keep delaying the inevitable, the one meaningful thing they can do to help not only VQA wineries in Ontario but also give consumers the choice they want and add to government coffers while they’re at it.
Privatize the LCBO. Let the private sector have a shot at what the government should not be doing in the first place and has proved cannot do well. And that’s retailing booze in this province.
That is the start of meaningful change. That is the brave thing to do, the right thing to do. Not stopgap measures and insincere gestures that consumers can see right through as merely delaying what’s going to happen anyway.
The privatization of Ontario’s retail booze industry, maybe partial privatization at first, is going to happen, dear premier, with or without you. You can be an agent of change or an obstacle in the way of progress like all your predecessors … but change is coming.
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Finding identity in Ontario wine styles
So much talk these days about finding Ontario’s strengths and exploiting them. People want to make us like Burgundy, a two-grape region with hard and fast rules that all would follow. Some would like us to be like New Zealand, a region that built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc but is now desperately trying to diversify.
I saw a lot of energy going into Chardonnay as our “signature” grape, driven by I4C and the big Chardonnay producers. There has been monumental success on that front; no other wine (aside from icewine) in Niagara has garnered international attention like our Chardonnays. But, let’s be real here. Those Chardonnays are the very best of our Chardonnays. They cost $30 and up, well beyond the budgets of most consumers. There needs to be more.
I hear calls for a Gamay (#GoGamayGo) revolution from tiny pockets of the Twitterverse. We make some good ones in Niagara, but, really, do we want to be the Beaujolais of the New World? I think it has limited appeal.
I feel we have a better chance of success with the staples that have a proven track record here: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Cabernet Franc. This is where we need to put the focus.
Riesling, especially, needs a champion, a guy like Harald Thiel, who has done so much to raise awareness for Chardonnay. We need a Riesling ambassador to get this wonderful grape the recognition it deserves in this region.
Just look at what the Finger Lakes has done with its focus on Riesling.
The New York Cork Report reported last week that consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs is launching a Riesling project in partnership with Johannes Selbach of Selbach-Oster in the Mosel on the southeast side of Seneca Lake. Hobbs obviously likes what he sees in the Finger Lakes. It has an identity with Riesling and has built a reputation around that variety.
That is not to say that the Finger Lakes region only does Riesling, it does pretty much everything Niagara does, but it has forged that identity and is now attracting international attention. Hell, a Finger Lakes Riesling from Ravines even made it onto the Top 100 Most Exciting Wines of 2013 Wine Spectator list. A few years ago Wine Spectator hadn’t even heard of the Finger Lakes.
Riesling is what Niagara does best. So let’s champion this amazing grape that does so well at all price levels across many different styles. Let’s put some effort into it. Instead of just the wonderful and informative Riesling Experience every two years let’s jump on the Riesling Revolution and have consumer events, restaurants and wineries participating. Who will lead us?
As for up and coming varietals, I look to Syrah to break out in the coming years. No longer a niche grape left to a few, I see more and more top wineries putting effort into Syrah. Led by the likes of Creekside Winery, Five Rows Craft Wine, Jackson Triggs and now sommelier William Predhomme, who believes Syrah has unlimited potential in Ontario (especially in Lake Erie North Shore) and launched his own brand called the North Shore Project, this grape, made in a Rhone style, is a rising star full of hope and promise.
Ontario will never be a one-trick pony, but more effort has to go into our superstars. When we mention Ontario wine outside the confines of our borders something should come to mind. We do need an identity, but let’s spread that identity across more than a few varieties.
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Wines In Niagara’s Ontario
Vintage Charts Back to 2008
I have been doing this vintage chart for Ontario for many years. It was originally commissioned by Wine Access and updated on an annual basis. I have tried to keep it current and relevant.
When the chart was designed by Wine Access the ratings were based on a seven-star scale. I am not sure why, but I have continued to rate the vintages that way. Perhaps one day I will get around to converting it to a 10-point system, but for now, seven stars it is.
The 2013 Vintage
The 2013 growing season saw a rollercoaster ride of variable weather across all major wine regions in Ontario. But when it was all said and done, temperatures were close to normal, but it ended up being a little wetter than normal.
After a wet mid-summer, August brought more stable weather, warm to normal temperatures and less rain and the grapes ripened more or less on schedule.
September was relatively dry as harvest began for some early ripening varieties and sparkling grapes but, moving into October, especially in Niagara, wet weather put pressure on harvest schedules.
Lake Erie North Shore was considerably drier than other regions in September and dry through the beginning of October with significant rains holding off until the end of the month. Harvest conditions were generally good. Prince Edward County saw ideal warm and dry conditions for harvest in September progressing to a wetter October.
For a look at what Ontario winemakers had to say about the vintage, go here from a previous post.
The Charts
2013 ★★★★★½ (Out of seven, tentative)
It was a late start to the season with every kind of weather imaginable tossed into the equation. Hot, cold, wet, dry … it was a rollercoaster ride, especially in Niagara. When it was all said and done, the season played to each region’s strengths — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Cabernet Franc in Niagara, Pinot and Chard in Prince Edward County and early ripening varieties in Lake Erie North Shore. Most aromatic whites across the board will also shine in 2013. Quality will be spotty for the other Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and anything that was left out on the vine to ripen late. I would call it a typical vintage for Niagara that plays to the strengths of what the region does best but some of the top bottlings, especially in big reds, could be de-classified. It was a record crop both for table wines and icewine grapes, which could come in handy for 2014 after a January cold snap caused severe bud damage.
Whites: Not released yet
Reds: Not released yet
2012 ★★★★★★
The mood in Niagara during the early harvest of 2012 was one of pure joy. Ripe fruit in pristine condition after a long, hot summer and early fall sent grape pickers into the vineyards in mid-August to harvest early-ripening varieties. It was one of the earliest harvests on record for all varieties with only a slight hiccup during a brief rainy period in September. Reports from all regions in Ontario indicate a near-perfect season with the Bordeaux-style red grapes leading the way. Winemakers were also excited by the white grapes, especially chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc, that all showed both juicy ripeness and natural acidity. The largest icewine crop was netted since 2007, an indication that Canada’s most famous export was set for a rebound in 2012.
Whites: Drink now, or cellar 3-5 years
Reds: Cellar 5 years or more, Bordeaux blends up to 10 years
2011 ★★★★★½
The extremely wet fall, during the peak of harvest for most varieties, has meant careful buying strategies. Quality varies from winery to winery, and it will depend a lot on picking decisions that were made. Pinot noir, gewürztraminer, baco noir and cabernet franc escaped the worst of the wet harvest, while chardonnay was hardest hit. Late-harvest and icewine rieslings were also affected by late-season rain. That being said, there are some very nice wines from 2011. Shop carefully.
Whites: Drink now or hold 2 to 4 years
Reds: Drink some now, or cellar 4 years
2010 ★★★★★★½
Winemakers across Ontario have never been happier with a vintage. The harvest started in the extreme heat of August and continued without concern through October. The red varieties, especially cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, are some of the best grapes grown in Ontario and should age gracefully. Even the whites show wonderful complexity, without being flabby and soft. You can purchase most Ontario wines from 2010 with confidence.
Whites: Drink now or cellar 4 years or less
Reds: Cellar 5 to 10 years
2009 ★★★★★
In many ways, 2009 was similar to 2008. A cool, wet summer put the harvest up to 14 days behind for most red varieties, but a long, warm fall saved the vintage. Aromatic whites, particularly many exceptional rieslings, are the stars of the vintage, along with the fabulous pinot noirs that are proving to be the best in recent memory. Bordeaux varieties had trouble ripening, especially cabernet sauvignon. Many wineries didn’t make their top red wines.
Whites: Drink now or cellar 3 years or less
Reds: Drink now or cellar 4 years (especially pinot noirs)
2008 ★★★★★½
It was a wet growing season in Ontario, especially in Niagara and Prince Edward County, and grape ripening in all appellations was a challenge. The quality of this vintage depended entirely on vineyard management. Whites and cool-climate reds (pinot noir and gamay) fared better than other varieties. The ’08 rieslings and other white varieties are superb, but consumers should be selective with the reds. Complex chardonnays are the stars of the vintage.
Whites: Drink now or cellar 3 years or less
Reds: Drink now
2007 ★★★★★★★
The growing season across Ontario was just about perfect. The 2007 vintage was the best in Ontario’s history, up to this point. It was warm, dry and ideal for extended hang time on the vines. The 2007 whites showed beautiful concentration of flavour, but lacked acidity and fell apart quickly. The red wines are proving extraordinary, especially with some age on them, from variety to variety. Look for rich, ripe, concentrated Bordeaux-style reds built to last.
Whites: Drink now
Reds: Drink now or cellar 5 years or more
2006 ★★★★★½
Not as wet as 2008, but still humid and slightly cooler than normal. The mood was upbeat in Ontario as vines recovered from the terrible winterkill of 2005. There was plenty of sunshine in August, but a wet September meant wineries had to employ good vineyard selection. It was a decent year for chardonnay, riesling, merlot, gamay, cabernet franc and pinot noir, and a great year for icewines.
Whites: Drink now
Reds: Drink now or cellar 2 years or less
2005 ★★★★★
This was a disastrous year. An extremely cold winter killed any hope for a healthy vintage, with more than half of the vintage wiped out. Many producers didn’t have enough wine to sell and suffered hefty financial losses. Both Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Island fared better than Niagara. The irony of the vintage was that, even with a tiny crop, what was grown ended up being pretty good.
Whites: Drink now
Reds: Drink now
2004 ★★★★★½
The 2004 vintage was a major relief for producers following the bad winter of 2003. Conditions improved immensely, and vines recovered from the previous winterkill. Some of the stars of the vintage include riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc and gamay. Tender varietals didn’t fare nearly as well.
Whites: Drink now
Reds: Drink now, but some Bordeaux blends still holding on
2003 ★★★★★½
This vintage had it all: a horrible winter resulting in another short crop (a reduction of 45 percent of all vinifera vines), the reappearance of the Asian lady beetle (which causes a nasty taint in wines) and, despite all of that, the emergence of some mighty fine whites. The rating for this vintage is really split between red and white wines: a 4.5 for red wines and a 6.0 for whites.
Whites: Drink now
Reds: Drink now
2002 ★★★★★★½
A lot of winemakers rank this vintage up there with 2007 and 1998. This vintage was highlighted by severe drought conditions in all Ontario appellations for most of the summer. The resulting grapes ripened beautifully, with small, concentrated grapes, high sugar levels and tannins. A tasting of top 2002 cab-merlots in 2010 showed just how wonderful most of these reds have come along. Most are just now coming into balance and show wonderful fruit, spice and tannins.
Drink up the whites
Drink up or hold top reds for 3 years
1998 ★★★★★★½
The best examples from this benchmark vintage are still showing beautifully. Even the whites — the top, oaked chardonnays, in particular — are still drinking fabulously. This is considered by many to be the vintage of the last century and the most significant vintage in Ontario’s history. Recently opened bottles from this vintage are superb. The top Bordeaux-style reds continue to age gracefully but all should be consumed soon.
Whites: Drink now.
Reds: Drink now
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