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Township 7, Bartier Scholefield, Tinhorn Creek; A taste of B.C.’s Okanagan Valley in review

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There is a lot of talk these days about Canadian wines and what they are, but our biggest barrier to discovering wines from our own country are the provincial borders that prevent the free-flow of wine between jurisdictions.

Not all provinces (we’re talking about you, Ontario!) will allow wineries in British Columbia or any other province to ship wines across provincial borders despite the federal government easing restrictions on cross-border wine shopping.

It’s a national shame, really, that petty politics and greedy motives (loss of revenue for the provincial Ontario monopoly that is the LCBO) are preventing most consumers from tasting what’s going in other provinces.

B.C. is a gorgeous wine-producing region making a wide array of fabulous wines. The Okanagan Valley, in particular, excels in warmer-climate Bordeaux-style reds, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Riesling (in the cooler zones).

Some wineries in B.C. will ship wines to Ontario but you have to check with each individual website for rules and conditions.

I have been tasting quite a few B.C. wines recently and will be visiting there again early this summer. Here’s what I can recommend.

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Township 7 Vineyards and Winery

Founded in 2000, Township 7 has two B.C. wineries, one situated in the scenic Fraser Valley and the other on the picturesque Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley.

The Vancouver winery is located in the south Langley countryside in a quaint building reminiscent of the many riding stables in the neighbourhood. Named after this historic community, its original name in the late 1800s was “Township 7” — the cottage on the property is an original building from the 1930s.

In the fall of 2003, a second vineyard property was purchased on the Naramata Bench. The Okanagan wine shop is surrounded by 7 acres of vines on the picturesque Naramata Bench with views of both Lake Okanagan and Skaha Lake. The majority of Township 7 wines are crafted there, offering visitors the opportunity to see the workings of the winery first hand.

Two acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer vines were planted on the Okanagan property in the spring of 2004, and additional Merlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot vines planted in 2005. The combined Naramata winery and tasting room was completed and opened in the summer of 2004.

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Township 7 Cabernet Franc 2011 ($30, get it here, 89 points) — A stylish nose of savoury cherry, plum, leather-tobacco notes, herbs and spices. It’s intense on the palate with a juicy core of red fruits and intense spices from 24 months in American oak with touches of licorice and graphite. Township 7 suggests trying this red with roast pork and cherry sauce, filet mignon, or a wheel of local Okanagan creamy blue cheese.

Township 7 Pinot Gris 2012 ($20, get it here, 88 points) — Pinot Gris is the most widely planted grape grown in the Okanagan. This one is sourced from estate vineyards on the Naramata Bench grown on the upper, western facing slope of their property and benefits from the maximum sun exposure and excellent drainage of the hillside. The nose displays bright apple, peach, pear and fresh melon. It’s made in a refreshing style with lovely apple and citrus flavours bolstered by racy acidity.

Township 7 Vineyards Reserve 7 2011, Okanagan ($35, get it here, 92 points) — A blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties and a great effort from a cooler vintage in the Okanagan. The nose shows an elegant amalgam of cassis, currants, blackberry, herbs, spice and subtle red fruits that are just emerging. It shows pure elegance on the palate with dark and red fruits, dried herbs and savoury spices to with firm tannins, grippy tannins and a long finish.

Township 7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($27, get it here, 91 points) — This single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a long-time grower, the Blue Terrace Vineyard, on the famed Black Sage Road. The nose shows black cherry fruit, cocoa, toasted vanilla, integrated spice and cedar cigar box. It is gorgeous on the palate with concentrated red fruits, dried herbs, well-structured tannins and a long finish. Built to cellar for 5-10 years. Try with herb-crusted roasted lamb.

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Bartier Scholefield (Okanagan Crush Pad)

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When Michael Bartier and David Scholefield met, an instant mutual respect was formed. They both possess a passion for learning; be it birds, hockey stats, or the intricacies of the wine world. Over the years the two started building their vision for what could be achieved next in the Okanagan Valley.

Bartier had the winemaking skills and Scholefield the experience of travelling the world tasting wine with many of the globe’s most iconic vintners. Since 2010, Bartier has been putting Scholefield’s vision into a bottle, each year releasing small allocations of wines that interest them and wines that they hope inspire a new way of viewing what the Okanagan is capable of producing. The wines are made at the Okanagan Crush Pad.

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Bartier Scholefield Red 2011 ($20, get it here, 90 points) — The blend is mostly Merlot with Syrah, Pinot Noir and Gamay. The nose displays juicy black cherry, plums, raspberry, pepper and light spice. It’s a delicious and expressive wine in the mouth with pure currant, plum and red fruits to go with ripe tannins and good acidity. Try with BBQ’d meats, hearty pastas and hard cheeses.

Bartier Scholefield White 2011 ($19, get it here, 89 points) — A unique blend of Chardonnay (from Summerland) and Pinot Gris (from Oliver) made with no barrel aging and minimal intervention in the cellar. It has an expressive, fresh and vibrant nose of peach, melon, lemon and lovely apple notes. It’s clean and pure on the palate delivering a stone fruit basket of flavours and bright acidity through the finish. Pair with fresh oysters, spicy Thai food and shellfish.

Bartier Scholefield Rosé 2011 ($19, get it here, 90 points) — A rosé made from 100% Gamay that’s not afraid to show its dry side. The nose displays raspberry, cherry and lovely earthy-savoury notes. It’s bright and rollicking on the palate with fresh red fruits, plums and subtle tannins in a crisp and tangy style. The winemakers had this comment to make about their rosé:

“For us in the Okanagan, if place matters, rosé matters. We believe that Okanagan rosé can be one of the world’s classic cool-climate wine styles, proving once and for all that rosé can be very much more than sweet, concocted ‘vino-pop.’ ”

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Tinhorn Creek

Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2013 ($19, get it here, 89 points) — A nose of fresh cut apples, tropical fruit, white flowers and citrus on the nose. It’s bright and pure on the palate with pineapple, tropical fruit and apple notes all lifted by fresh acidity. Pair with grilled seafood or pork sausage.

Note: Tinhorn recently announced their new winemaker Andrew Windsor, calling him an experienced bon vivant and global traveller, who brings a unique blend of passion and scientific knowledge to the winery.

The approach to winemaking at Tinhorn has always been collaborative and Sandra Oldfield will continue this tradition by running the winery as CEO & President while working together with her successor Andrew and the winemaking team.

“Andrew’s experimental and innovative new ideas fit perfectly with our approach over the last 20 years of continually evolving and moving forward with our winemaking,” said Oldfield. “Andrew’s worldly view will ensure a fresh direction as we continue to work dynamically to create our spectacular wines.”

Andrew WindsorOntario-born Windsor’s first taste of wine was a friend’s parents’ attempt at homemade wine but it didn’t put him off and he went on to take a course in wine while studying Environmental Science at the University of Guelph. In his 20s he met Jamie McFarland of The Ice House Winery, who invited him to assist with his icewine project in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Andrew had a sharp taste of the winemaking world when he was called to start picking grapes at 3 a.m. in -12 C.

Heading to warmer climes, Windsor gained a Masters of Oenology at the University of Adelaide in Australia in 2006 and then took on an Assistant Winemaking role at Mollydooker Wines in McLaren Vale, where he lived on the beach and cycled to work through vineyards filled with kangaroos.

Working closely with viticulturist, Andrew Moon and assistant winemaker, Korol Kuklo, Windsor will be overseeing the winemaking process from vines to bottle. He brings with him a wealth of experience having worked in wineries in the Okanagan, Marlborough in New Zealand and the Northern Rhone in France before returning to Canada to work as VQA Winemaker for Andrew Peller Ltd. in Niagara.

“France taught me that wine is not just a science but an art form, a culture and an expression of a place. Wine has the ability to take you to a place in the world without leaving your home,” said Windsor. “I want to make the best wine in Canada and the only place I can do that is the South Okanagan.”