Like most wineries around Niagara, Featherstone did not escape the wrath of Mother Nature this past cruel winter.
While Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir came through the series of brutal “polar vortexes” fairly well, Gewurztraminer, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc were all hit “pretty hard,” says Featherstone owner and winemaker David Johnson (below). “We will have to work hard just to save the vines,” he says.
Which is such a shame as Gewurztraminer is one of the superstars of the Featherstone portfolio. Gewurztraminer and Cabernet Franc, which was about 50% affected by the deep freeze, are two of Johnson’s favourite grapes to work with and drink.
On the bright side, the 2013 vintage was one of the largest on record, with a long and fruitful growing season resulting in a large crop of decent fruit across all varieties. So, consumers are advised to stock up on 2013 whites and 2012 reds.
At Featherstone, where Johnson and his wife Louise Engel (very top photo) farm their 23-acre, eco-friendly estate that’s tucked nicely into the Niagara Escarpment in the Twenty Mile Bench appellation, they understand that their business exists at the whim of the weather. “What is giveth, is taketh away,” Johnson says, quoting fellow winemaker Rob Power from Creekside Estate Winery.
So, coming off an excellent crop such as 2013, he’ll take the good of that vintage with the bad of the 2014 vintage.
Featherstone has one of the most well-rounded and consistent portfolios in Niagara, crafting what they like to call “terroir-driven” Rieslings along with Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay and the aforementioned Gewurztraminer all at consumer-friendly prices.
Johnson has some very fine juice coming out soon from both the 2013 vintage and the oak-aged wines from 2012. I have to say, of the 2013 wines, the Sauvignon Blanc, released this Saturday at Vintages, is the superstar in this lineup but don’t miss the reasonably-priced Cab Franc 2012 coming out later this year at Vintages.
Here’s what I like after tasting with Johnson earlier this summer. Note: Featherstone wines are released at the winery following the Vintages release.
Featherstone Rose 2013 ($15, Vintages, 88 points) — A blend of 50% Gamay and 50% Merlot with a nose of sweet strawberry and ripe raspberry fruit. On the palate the red fruits are joined by a meaty-savoury note to add interest to this summer sipper.
Featherstone Gewurztraminer 2013 ($20, Vintages, 89 points) — One of the most consistently well-made Gews in Niagara vintage after vintage. The nose shouts lychee, rose petals, spicy grapefruit, ginger, nutmeg and citrus. It has lovely texture on the palate with grapefruit-citrus and papaya-guava fruits all delivered with a touch of sweetness. A balanced wine with equal parts spice and fruit.
Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2012 ($22, Vintages Dec. 6, 90 points) — Fermented with wild yeast, the fermentation took place in oak barrels that are made from oak trees that grow along the Grand River in Brantford. How Canadian! The nose shows poached and spicy pear with hints of green apple and vanilla. It has wonderful texture in the mouth with creamy ripe pear, well-integrated spice and grip through the finish.
Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2013 ($17, Vintages, 89 points) — A consistently delightful Riesling from Featherstone with a nose of peach, lime, grapefruit and mineral notes. The palate reveals sweet-tart citrus fruit peach and a core of slate minerality. Love the mouthwatering verve and energy through the finish.
Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($18, July 19 at Vintages, 91 points) — The star of the vintage with a gorgeous and expressive nose of lime, grapefruit, kiwi, grass and sweet herbs. It is perfectly balanced on the palate with vibrant, ripe fruit and refreshing zesty notes on the finish.
Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2012 ($20, Vintages Oct. 11, 90 points) — The 2012 vintage has been very kind to Featherstone. This is another solid from the winery’s red portfolio. The nose shows inviting raspberry, cherry and plum aromas with light spice. It’s lush and smooth on the palate with medium weight showing flavours of raspberry, plums, licorice and spice with a smooth delivery through the long finish.
Featherstone Onyx 2010 ($30, Vintages, 91 points) — This red blend is culled from the best 10% of the Merlot and Cabernet Franc barrels and is aged in 100% American oak for 24 months. It is a delight. A bold nose of plums, currants, tobacco leaf, nutmeg, mocha and rich red fruits that are lifted by a nice herb note in the background. It’s stylish on the palate with integrated red fruits and spice with fine tannins and mid-weight through the finish. Drinking great right now or can cellar a few years. (Previously reviewed and retasted.)
Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2012 ($18, Vintages Aug. 17, 92 points) — Made with 100% American oak aging, this is a thrilling, textbook Niagara Cabernet Franc. The nose displays ripe cherry-raspberry fruits with well-integrated herbs and spices. It has lovely mouthfeel, smoky red fruits, a touch of interesting “olive tapenade” and herbs that are well-balanced. There is nothing out of place, through the finish.
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