Niagara Wine ReviewsTop Stories

A slew of summer wines from Ontario reviewed from Fielding, Tawse, EastDell, Colio, Chateau des Charmes, Trius and 13th Street. Cheers!

DSC_3091Ahhh, summer, where the living is easy and the wine better fit perfectly on the porch, dock or poolside or we just aren’t drinking it. Give me fresh. Give me easy. Give me juicy fruit. Is that too much to ask for?

It hasn’t been the greatest of summers, at least where I live in Niagara. Kinda crappy, actually, with a combination of cool weather, overcast skies, downpours, wind and the odd hot and muggy day (not enough of those, IMO). But that doesn’t change the way we drink wine when the calendar turns to June. We are wired for summer whether summer wants to co-operate or not.

It’s all about the Rieslings, the Pinot Gris, the roses, Gamays and lighter wines that fit well in a warm outdoor environment.

gajaaaWhen the sun goes down and the temperatures cool off, sure, bring out the bolder wines, the Chardonnays, the Bordeaux red blends, the Rhones and Pinot Noirs. But, for the most part, summer is for summer wines.

And so it was during our family cottage vacation to Muskoka. We loaded up the SUVs with a pretty good selection of wines with at least 50% of them from Niagara with the rest a collection of Bordeaux (including Sauternes), Rhone whites, Italian reds and Aussie whites (Semillon). Some of the Niagara wines we hauled up to Muskoka were samples that I had yet to get to, some were from my cellar, and some were purchased.

I found myself reaching for the fresh whites more than the other wines and they were generally from Ontario. The vintners here make such amazing Riesling that it’s hard to resist while sitting on a dock passing the time.

There were some highlights, of course, the Trius Brut NV and Fielding Estate Lot No. 17 Riesling, come to mind, but there were also some low-lights. The M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette Hermitage (Blanc) 2003 was the biggest disappointment. It was flabby, high in alcohol (and felt like it) and over acidified (hot vintage, no acid, so they over compensated, I guess). I ended up dumping a good portion of it in the lake. No one liked it.

The absolute highlight was a Gaja Barbaresco 1986. What a beauty, such poise and elegance and just now reaching its peak. I still can’t stop thinking about it.

The reviews below, including wines from Fielding, Trius, EastDell, Tawse, Chateau des Charmes and Colio, are from notes taken in the last little while, including a few tasted on a serene dock on Sunset Bay somewhere near Gravenhurst, Ont.

Fielding Estate Winery (Beamsville Bench)

rockpileFielding Estate Cabernet-Merlot 2011 ($35, winery only, 90 points) — The blend, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot, spent two years in a combination of French and American oak. Such a beautiful nose of ripe cherry, raspberry, black currants and rich, spicy accents. It’s delicious on the palate with concentrated red fruits, currants, blackberry and vanilla oak spice. All that and well balanced and smooth through the long finish.

Fielding Estate Gamay 2013 ($18, winery only, 88 points) — The nose displays bold plums, wild berries, currants and a touch of spice. It’s fresh, fun and lively on the palate with blueberry, plum and currant fruit.

Fielding Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2013 ($22, Vintages on Nov. 22, 89 points) — Aged in 25% French oak with a nose of creamy vanilla, pear, green apple and spice. It shows elegance on the palate with deliciously toasted spices, pear-apple notes and a fresh vein of citrus to keep it all fresh through the finish.

Fielding Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 ($15, Vintages Oct. 11, winery Sept. 1, 88 points) — Pure, fresh aromas of crisp apple, citrus and melon. It’s refreshing on the palate with clean, bright fruits. Simple and delicious.

Fielding Estate Viognier 2012 ($26, Vintages, winery, 90 points) — An expressive nose of peach, tropical fruits, lime, lanolin, spice and a floral note. This has weight on the palate and a lovely texture to go with juicy pear, apple, sweet peach and subtle spice notes. An exotic treat.

rieslingggFielding Estate Rock Pile Pinot Gris 2013 ($28, winery only, 91 points) — Always a leader among Gris made in Ontario, this Tufford Road Vineyard white, from the Lincoln Lakeshore appellation, has a lush nose of melon, poached pear, warm apple pie and roasted almonds. It’s viscous and velvety smooth on the palate and highlights the melon, pear, ginger and pear flavours carried on a racy spine of acidity.

Fielding Riesling 2013 ($16, winery, LCBO, 87 points) — Fielding is very much a Riesling producer, bottling three tiers of this grape each vintage. This is the entry-level of the three, sourced from various Niagara vineyards. The nose shows zesty lime and peach notes. It’s zingy and fresh on the palate with vibrant citrus through the finish. Lip-smacking good.

Fielding Estate Bottled Riesling 2013 ($19, Vintages, winery, 90 points) — 75% of the fruit is from the estate’s Beamsville Bench vineyard with the rest coming from the Tufford Road vineyard. Such an inviting nose of summer peaches, jasmine, orange blossom and lime-citrus. It’s tangy on the palate with fresh grapefruit, wild honey, mineral, lemon-lime and verve through the finish.

lot 17Fielding Estate Lot No. 17 Riesling 2013 ($28, winery only, 92 points) — Lot No. 17 represents the best of the best from the home estate’s Beamsville Bench vineyard. The 2013 vintage is a beauty with defined lime, citrus, grapefruit, apricot and river-rock minerality on the nose. The palate reveals pure lime zest, lanolin, peach and a basket of fresh citrus fruits all racing along a razor-sharp beam of acidity. Nicely concentrated, and finely balanced, this should age well for five or more years.

Fielding Estate Cabernet Franc 2012 ($22, Vintages Aug. 30, winery Sept. 1, 89 points) — A nice nose of cherry, bramble, violets, black fruits and just the right amount of herbs and spices. Quite balanced and nuanced with cherry-chocolate, herbs, ripe blueberry and spice that’s well integrated.

Trius Winery (Niagara-on-the-Lake)

trius roseTrius Brut NV ($25, LCBO, winery, 89 points) — Year in, year out, a standout value in the sparkling wine category (from any country), with a lovely nose of citrus, toast, brioche, grapefruit and lemon custard. It’s zesty and zingy on the palate with crisp citrus notes, green apple and an energetic mousse.

trius_red_1Trius Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($13, LCBO, winery, 88 points) — Winemaker Craig McDonald loves making this variety and it shows. The nose displays lemon, grapefruit, herbs, gooseberry and lime. It’s made in a classic SB style on the palate with lovely citrus flavours and grassy-herbaceous accents in a fresh, lively style.

Trius Rose 2013 ($16, winery, 88 points) — A nose of strawberry-cherry, rhubarb and a hint of cranberry and citrus. It’s made in a dry style, not overdone, with plump red fruits on the palate and a refreshing finish.

Trius Red 2012 ($23, Vintages, 91 points) — The smartly priced Trius Red is a blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. McDonald says “the 2012 vintage gave me the best Cabernet Sauvignon I’ve ever worked with in Niagara. The rich, full-body and layers of dark fruit, spice and chocolate strike a perfect balance between power and finesse. This big red blend is a keeper.” The nose shows an array of blackberry, spice, bramble, cocoa and currants already nicely integrated. It’s quite rich and concentrated on the palate and shows ripe black fruits, rousing spices and just now coming into balance. Drink or hold for a couple of years or more.

13th Street Winery (St. Catharines)

red palate13th Street Cabernet Merlot 2012 ($20, Vintages release Sept. 13, 90 points) — The hot, near-perfect growing season of 2012 provided the backdrop for some very fine Bordeaux red blends in Ontario. 13th Street has done just that and they have done it an attractive price. The nose shows rich black currants, black cherry, ripe plums, bramble bush undertones and an array of spices. It possesses lovely texture on the palate with chewy tannins, rich, opulent fruit that’s highly extracted to go with layers of spices, a hint of licorice and a fairly long finish. Can age this nicely for a few years.

13th Street Red Palatte 2012 ($16, Vintages release Sept. 13, 88 points) — A nose of field berries, plums, black cherries, raspberries and spice. The red fruits, from a blend of Gamay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, dominate the palate with touches of spice and soft, round tannins. You can chill this a bit before serving.

13th Street White Palette 2012 ($16, LCBO, winery, 88 points) — This white blend consists of 53% Riesling, 18% Chardonnay, 17% Gewurztraminer, 9% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Pinot Gris. It’s highly aromatic with notes of sweet citrus, white flowers, tropical fruit, peach and pineapple. It’s honied on the palate with grapefruit and loaded with ripe orchard fruits. A tasty wine moderated by zesty acidity.

Tawse Estate Winery (Vineland)

DSC_2964Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Riesling 2013 ($24, Vintages Direct, winery, 91 points) — This organically-biodynamically grown Riesling from the Vinemount Ridge appellation has a gorgeous nose of lime cordial, grapefruit, honeydew melon, peach and bright citrus with a mineral component. It explodes on the palate with mouth-watering lemon-lime, Mandarin orange, wet stone minerality and laser-beam acidity. Zesty, lively, clean and precise. A beauty.

Tawse Grower’s Blend Meritage 2011 ($30, winery, Vintages Direct Program, 89 points) — A blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc with an attractive nose of field raspberry, cherry, nettles, bramble and rich oak spices. It’s a hearty wine on the palate with darker fruits, oak-inspired spices, cocoa and firm tannins.

Tawse Sketches Riesling 2013 ($18, Vintages, winery, 90 points) — A beautiful nose of grapefruit, lime, fresh-squeezed lemon and mineral notes. It’s taut and electrifying on the palate with all manner of zesty citrus fruit in a mouth-watering style. Bravo.

Tawse Sketches Rose 2013 ($16, Vintages only, 87 points) — A nose of strawberry, cherry, cranberry and bramble. This tasty rose is dripping in red fruits on the palate with good acid to keep it refreshing for summer sipping.

EastDell Estate Wines (Niagara-on-the-Lake)

EastDell Black Cab 2013 ($14, LCBO, 87 points) — This blend of 42% Baco Noir, 27% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon has a smoky nose of dark fruits, oak spices and black licorice. The palate reveals sweet anise, currants, blackberries and cherry fruit with complementary spices. Dark and delicious.

EastDell Soaring White 2013 ($14, LCBO, winery, 87 Points) — A unique blend of Riesling and Moscato that shows lemon, tangerine and peach notes on the nose. It’s crisp and refreshing on the palate with juicy apricot, peach and lime notes.

Chateau des Charmes Wines (St. Davids)

Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2012 ($17, LCBO, winery, 88 points) — Highly aromatic nose of melon, honeysuckle, pear and a touch of spice. It has nice weight and texture on the palate with baked apple, melon and spice notes.

Colio Estate Wines (Lake Erie North Shore)

imageColio Bricklayer’s Predicament Cabernet-merlot 2013 ($15, LCBO, 88 points) — The nose on this Lake Erie North Shore blend shows black currants, bright cherry/raspberry and toasty oak notes. It has mid-weight on the palate with big, juicy fruits and a smooth delivery. Good value wine.

Colio Bricklayer’s Predicament Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio 2013 ($14, LCBO, winery, 87 points) — The nose of this white blend shows apple, peach, apricot and pinch of citrus fruit. It’s made in a dry style with ripe apple and peach fruits. Perfect on a summer’s day.