By Micheal Lowe
I’ve always been a sucker for bold, yet not overstated flavours, and lunch at The Garrison House last week left me vowing to return.
The first indication that The Garrison House is a local pub in the truest sense is the selection of local beers on tap. Tasty pours from Niagara College Brewery, Oast House and Silversmith are on offer as well as a number of interesting bottled brews from across the province and abroad.
The wine list also heavily favours Niagara with a few imports added for balance. But let’s get to the food.
Starters range in price from about $7 to $18 but some are complete meals in their own right. Case in point, the brewer’s platter (below photo), which serves two as an app or one if you’re so inclined.
Mill Street Brewery’s Tankhouse Ale sausage, crunchy cornichons, aged cheddar, ham, prosciutto, house-made pâté and crusty bread are reminiscent of a British favourite of mine, ploughman’s lunch.
I can’t stress enough that the specials here are worth noting. A brilliant variation on bruschetta (below photo) was a feature the day I dropped in. A piquant sauce of Andouille sausage and tomato is pressed into grilled sourdough bread and topped with pickled vegetables and creamy goat cheese to create a reverent example of taste, texture and composition.
While visiting Two Sisters Vineyards just before lunch, retail manager Rosemarie Huber recommended Garrison House’s red wine beef curry (below photo). Large, tender cubes of beef in a rich, intensely flavoured red wine curry sauce wake up the taste buds and warms the senses with a subtle spiciness.
The preceding dishes whetted my appetite for more and we found ourselves back at the Garrison House three days later for dinner.
Prices for main dishes range from $15 for the brisket burger to $21 for a grilled flat iron steak.
The burger (below photo) is made from beef brisket which is ground fresh in house. This allows the diner to order the burger cooked to order, a welcome option in this cook-the-hell-out-of-it world. Double-smoked bacon, aged cheddar and red wine braised onions complement the meaty goodness. Perfect house-cut “Tavern chips” are served crisp and seasoned fresh from the fryer. I particularly liked the offering of malt vinegar with the chips.
The fish feature, salmon with a zesty tomato sauce (below photo), boasts bright, well-balanced flavours. Smashed potato, purple potato and fresh tender green beans round out this colourful, and tasty plate.
For dessert we share the double chocolate peanut butter pavê (below photo). Crunchy, cornflake crust is the base for decadent layers of peanut butter and chocolate mousse. No one will argue the natural affinity of chocolate and peanut butter but this dish ups the ante with the addition of banana custard and caramelized bananas making it a trilogy of classic tastes.
The Garrison House is operated by respected local chef David Watt who also owns Zest in Fonthill. Watt’s theme of modern Canadian cuisine is alive and flourishing at The Garrison House where dishes feature ingredients from many local producers.
The restaurant is a great place to relax and enjoy fine food and drink at reasonable prices. Service during both visits was excellent with a perfect blend of professionalism and lighthearted humour.
Highly recommended.
The Garrison House
111C, Unit 2 Garrison Village Drive
Niagara-on-the-Lake
905- 468- 4000
Hours
Sunday through Thursday: 11:30 am – 11 pm
Friday and Saturday: 11:30 am – 12 am
Email: info@thegarrisonhouse.ca
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