We’ve got a real potpourri of wines and Ontario craft cider to offer up from various travels in Niagara and samples sent this way for consideration.
We start with the wines of Pearl Morissette from a tasting a while back and move to the Vinemount Ridge producer Calamus where I was able to get some tasting in prior to a speaking engagement on behalf of the Niagara chapter of the Ontario Wine Society on liquor retailing in Ontario. There are also a couple of delicious roses on review, a tasty Gris from Fielding, a new cider from Pommies and two new G. Marquis wines I can recommend. So, let’s get at it …
Pearl Morissette
Pearl Morissette Cuvee Mon Unique Gamay 2013 ($29, 91 points) — This Gamay is wild-yeast fermented in open wood fermenters and is made with zero sulphur added. Can’t really call it “natural” under the strict definition of vin nature, as it’s not made with organic-bio grapes. It shows savoury cherry, boysenberry, blueberry and bramble fruit on the nose. It’s so fresh and alive on the palate with a range of purple fruits and cherries in a juicy, yet bright, style. As Francois Morissette says: “A glug, glug, glug wine.” I concur.
Pearl Morissette Cuvée Dix-Neuvième Chardonnay 2011 ($35, 92 points) — This Chard was whole cluster pressed followed by racking into barrel for fermentation by indigenous yeast. All vessels used for fermentation were neutral oak, with the exception of two new French oak puncheons. The wine was aged for 15 months on fine lees and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Such a beautiful and expressive nose of rich pear, apple, tangerine and citrus that’s fresh and vibrant. It has finesse on the palate in an open-knit style with lovely stone fruit, yeasty-bready notes, subtle caramel-vanilla spice and a creamy texture through a long finish.
Pearl Morissette Cuvée Dix–Neuvième Chardonnay 2012 ($35, 93 points) — A far different style here than the 11 with a tighter nose that’s just beginning to show citrus, apple, grilled pineapple, lemon chiffon, lanolin and spice notes. It’s generous on the palate and builds as it opens up with a range of fruit flavours and a nutty note on the finish. Age for 10+ years and this, I suspect, will be a different wine all entirely.
Pearl Morissette Cuvee Black Ball Riesling 2013 ($32, Vintages, 92 points, previously reviewed but reposted here to compare to the 2014 version) — Yes, there is a reductive note on the nose that seems to dissipate with time in the glass, but also gorgeous lime, grapefruit, apple skin and slate minerality. It is taut, young and racy on the palate with nervy acidity and energy. The texture is profound and the flavours open up to intense lime and grapefruit pulp, freshening river rock minerality, dried apple and an intensity that builds through the finish. This is a Riesling that won’t appeal to everyone, but should be tried to show that this variety isn’t always cut from the same mould.
Pearl Morisette Cuvee Black Ball Riesling 2014 ($32) — The 2014 version of the Black Ball, as yet unreleased, was fermented and aged in concrete “eggs.” It was finished with only 2 g/l of residual sugar and highlights honeysuckle, tangerine and lime notes. A full review will follow when it gets closer to being released.
Calamus Estate Winery
Calamus Pinot Gris 2013 ($17, Vintages, 88 points) — Calamus has always excelled with this grape. It’s made in a fresh style with melon, peach and apple notes on the nose. It’s ripe on the palate with lovely texture and feel to with zippy acidity through the finish. Great summer sipper.
Calamus Steely Chardonnay 2013 ($15, 87 points) — It’s made with no oak but partial malo for added texture. It has lovely aromatics of fresh apple, pear, some melon and citrus. It’s all about the fruit-forward flavours on the palate with a crisp, clean finish.
Calamus Cosmic Red 2012 ($18, LCBO, 89 points) — A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and splash of Pinot Noir. The nose shows raspberries, cherries, bramble and light spice notes. Surprisingly structured on the plate with good tannins, red and dark fruits, earthy notes and spice. Good value red.
Calamus Cabernet Franc 2012 ($23, 90 points) — A well-done, varietally-correct Cab Franc with a nose of cassis, raspberry, currants, mulled herbs and mocha-cinnamon spice. It has decent tannic structure, kirsch-raspberry fruits, touches of tar and licorice and rich spices. Lovely.
Calaumus Meritage 2012 ($32, 90 points) — The blend is 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. The nose shows blackberry, cherry, leather and complex oak spices. It has structure and power with meaty-earthy fruit, blackberry, tar and length through the finish. A cellar contender.
Two Roses to perk up your summer
Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Organic Rose 2014 ($20, Vintages, 88 points) — Made from 100% organic fruit this lovely rose had a delightful nose of raspberry, cherry and rhubarb that’s focused and inviting. Everything is in balance on the palate, nothing over the top, with red fruits and a touch of dried herbs with a clean, crisp finish.
Vineland Estate The Game Changer Rose 2014 ($16, 89 points) — A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a pretty pale salmon colour with lovely aromatics of cherry, field raspberry, summer garden herbs and earthy notes. With just a kiss of sweetness, it’s all perfectly balanced with the red fruits rising to the front of the palate. It’s fresh and vibrant through the finish. I could drink this all day long by the pool with friends. 12% alcohol.
A Gris with sizzle from Fielding
Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2014 ($22, Vintages, 89 points) — Shows a light copper colour after a touch of skin contact and a nose of ripe melon, peach, apple, a lifted floral note and a pinch of ginger. Perfectly dry on the palate and flavours of ripe apple, melon and citrus through a clean finish.
Ontario craft cider, anyone?
Pommies Farmhouse Cider ($3 for a 473 ml can, LCBO, 90 points, 6% alc) — A fresh nose of apple slices and some baked apple notes, like walking through an apple orchard on a warm summer’s day. A vigorous effervescence tickles the palate with a clean and refreshingly dry finish. Apple cider done right. A summer staple.
The Silver Line
G. Marquis Vineyards Pinot Noir The Silver Line 2013 ($20, Vintages, 88 points) — A nose of cran-cherry, raspberry, bramble and a lifted floral note. It’s quite smooth on the palate with ripe tannins, a basket of red fruit, some earthy-bramble notes and well-balanced spice. Nice, easy Pinot.
G. Marquis Vineyards Chardonnay The Silver Line 2013 ($18, Vintages on Oct. 31, 89 points) — A lovely nose of pear, melon, coconut and subtle, balanced spices. The pear fruit is concentrated and pure on the palate with crisp apple notes, rousing acidity and fine oak spice that shines through a long finish.
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