Niagara Wine ReviewsTop Stories

New 2012 Le Clos Jordanne released, plus reviews for Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs and Kacaba

DSC_5398

When Le Clos Jordanne arrived in the world it was with much fanfare and the highest of expectations.

What was to be one of the world’s greatest wineries, designed by Frank Gehry, would be built spectacularly in the centre of the premium estate vineyards in a platinum-plated, cloud-like motif in a partnership between Burgundy’s Boisset family and Canada’s Vincor.

The winery was long ago abandoned but one thing has remained firmly intact since that first much-ballyhooed vintage — the quality of the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, inspired by Burgundy but made distinctly and passionately from the terroir of Niagara. And though the portfolio has been trimmed down in recent years, the wines are without a doubt some of the top juice made in Niagara.

VC2008-579-hi

Part of the success has been consistent winemaking. Thomas Bachelder got the project going for Vincor as the first winemaker with Sebastien Jacquey (above) working side by side until he took over from Bachelder three years ago as head winemaker when Bachelder decided to start his own tri-regional wine project.

Earlier this year, after eight years with Le Clos, Jacquey left to join the Megalomaniac family.

In a news release, Constellations Brands (formerly Vincor) said this about Jacquey as they parted ways:
“As part of a close winemaking community in Niagara, we are happy to see Sebastian is staying in Ontario and will continue to make VQA Niagara wines and we wish him the best of luck with his new endeavor.

“In the interim, our senior vice-president of operations – including winemaking, Paul Kassebaum, will personally oversee winemaking for Le Clos Jordanne to ensure continued consistency and acclaimed quality consumers have grown to expect and enjoy from our wines.” Kassebaum joined Constellation Brands Canada last July. He has previously held the role of winemaking for Hardy Wines including the Tasmanian wines, from the cool climate region in Australia.

I just tasted two new 2012 Chardonnays from Le Clos and re-tasted the top two 2011 wines. Here are my reviews (all Le Clos wines are available at the Jackson-Triggs winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake):

5805636313_ddc0cec7ea

Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2012 ($30, 90 points) — The Village Reserve is a blend of the estate’s three vineyards where Chardonnay is planted and deemed not suitable for the single-vineyard wines. Make no mistake, however, Le Clos’s Village is as good or better than a lot of Niagara winery’s top Chardonnays. This is gorgeous, with a nose of lemon, peach, apple skin, Bosc pear, light buttered toast and subtle spices. The flavours range from grapefruit and citrus to ripe pear with nice integration of wood spices. It’s ready to rock right now or cellar no more than two years.

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2012 ($40, 93 points) — Claystone comes from the western part of the vineyard where the proportion of clay and limestone is well suited to the climate. There is often a longer hang time for the fruit at this site, allowing the Chardonnay to achieve optimal ripeness while maintaining natural acidity. This is quite tight at the moment but still reveals attractive and elegant poached pear, brioche, lemon, nougat, saline minerality and fine oak spice. It opens up on the palate with green apple, citrus, pear and spices with lovely texture, minerality and a vibrant finish. This is just getting started, cellar 5-10 years.

Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2011 ($65, 92 points, previously reviewed and re-tasted) — Sebastien Jacquey dialed the oak down to 10% new in the top cuvee to better showcase the “natural concentration of fruit” from the best parcels of grapes from Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard. “We can still use the oak we need for the mid-palate,” he told me at the time. “It’s a much better way to differentiate Niagara from other regions.” The nose shows persistent apple, peach and lovely citrus notes with subtle minerality and soft oak spice offered up as gorgeous accents. This Chardonnay is all about the play of rich fruit, integrated spice and swirling minerality that’s bolstered and balanced by fresh acidity. A lovely drop from beginning to end.

Le Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 ($40, 91 points, previously reviewed and re-tasted) — The goal for Jacquey on this single-vineyard Chard was “structure on the mid-palate without being oaky.” Only 15% new French oak was used, a downward trend that we are seeing more and more in Niagara. The nose is a bit closed, even at this stage, suggesting more cellaring, but the apple and pear fruit play nice with the spice and minerality. It is pretty and poised on the palate with lovely stone fruits, subtle spice and racy acidity that leads to a long, lively finish.

Kacaba Vineyards and Winery

Kacaba Cabernet Syrah 2013 ($19, winery, 88 points) — A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Syrah with the wines aged separately in a combination of French (50%) and American oak (50%) for 16 months. There is good concentration of black currant, blackberry, licorice, wet tobacco and oak spices on the nose. It’s fresh and vibrant on the palate with dark fruits, peppery spices and fairly robust tannins through the finish.

Kacaba Merlot 2013 ($25, winery, 89 points) — The nose shows crunchy raspberry, black currants, kirsch, cedar and spice. The cherry-raspberry notes are pronounced on the palate with cassis, currants and anise chiming in. Lovely savoury spices round out this easy-to-like Niagara Merlot.

Jackson-Triggs

photo 1

Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Musque Reserve 2014 ($18, Wine Rack, LCBO, 88 points) — A delicious little sparkling wine with a nose of honeysuckle, citrus, guava and mango. It pops on the palate with a vigorous mousse and shows off a ripe basket of orchard fruits, tropical notes with balancing acidity. Slightly off-dry.

Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2013 ($14, LCBO, 87 points) — Quite lemony and fresh on the nose with lime and tropical fruits in the background. It’s a bit soft on the palate with a range of citrus fruits and grassy-herb notes through the finish.

Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Red Meritage 2012 ($25, winery, Wine Rack, Vintages, 90 points, previously reviewed but re-tasted and re-scored) — A nose of dark fruits, earth tones, smoke, cedar, spice and integrated herbs. It’s gorgeous on the palate with dark cassis, currants, ripe cherry, spice, gritty tannins and long finish. A well-balanced red blend that is aging well.

Inniskillin

photo 2

Inniskillin Pinot Gris Reserve 2013 ($20, Vintages, winery, Wine Rack stores, 91 points) — I really do love what Inniskillin winemaker Bruce Nicholson is doing with this variety. The grapes are from the estate Montague Vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation and the nose shows fully ripe melon, apricots, peach, apple with honey and spice. It’s substantive on the palate with ripe pear, apple and apricots with a spicy finish.

Inniskillin Discovery Series East-West Pinot Grigio Chardonnay ($17, Wine Rack stores only, 87 points) — Grapes are sourced from both Niagara and the Okanagan, fermented separately and then brought together in Niagara for blending. The nose shows white peach, lime, citrus and green apple with a touch of spice. It’s soft on the palate with rich, ripe fruit, baked apple and spice.

Inniskillin Discovery Series Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2014 ($23, winery only, 90 points) — This is a first for this style of oaked SB from Nicholson. Lots of spicy goodness on the nose with lime, kiwi, passion fruit and grapefruit to go with subtle grass and herb notes. It’s round and nuanced on the palate with lime, passion fruit and citrus mingling with rich spices and a herbaceous note through the finish.