Syrah in Ontario will become a rarity beginning with the 2014 vintage because of the back-to-back brutal winters, so there is much to celebrate with the plentiful 2013s now hitting store shelves.
It is a cruel irony that Syrah, which makes a wonderful cool-climate style of wine from the vineyards of Ontario, has such a hard time surviving our climate. It wasn’t wiped out entirely in Ontario during the bitter cold of 2014-15, but it is on life support with only a smattering of surviving vines, mostly in Niagara.
To see a trio of distinct single-block Syrahs from one winery — Kacaba Vineyards — is a rarity to be celebrated.
Kacaba farms on the prime bench land of the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland and makes a range of small-batch wines from a combination of estate and trusted grower fruit.
Syrah is a key component of the wine program at Kacaba and, along with three single-vineyard (block) Syrahs, a reserve is also made in the very best vintages.
Here are the three 2013 Syrahs that are either released now at the winery or will be soon. Also in this report, there are reviews of new releases from Henry of Pelham, Flat Rock Cellars, Peninsula Ridge, Maverick Distillery (Oakville), Havana Club rum, and a couple of international wines.
Silver Bridge Vineyard
The Silver Bridge Vineyard is a part of Kacaba’s original planting of Syrah in 1998. It consists of six rows in the main block of the property that can be seen while on the Silver Bailey Bridge. This vineyard achieves the highest sugar levels and concentration of flavours.
Kacaba Silver Bridge Vineyard Syrah 2013 ($30, winery now, 90 points) —It has a beautiful nose of white pepper, boysenberry, blueberry, earth, red fruits, loam and a range of red and dark currants. The palate shows a vibrant core of acidity that achieves balance in this personable Syrah to go with bright red fruits, anise, pepper, cranberry and licorice on a bed of supple tannins.
Terraced Vineyard
The Terraced Vineyard is one of the two original blocks of Syrah planted in the Kacaba Vineyard dating back to 1998. It includes some younger vines planted in 2007 when the neighbouring property was acquired. Planted in the ravine on the property, the ravine itself had to be terraced in order to plant the vines and accommodate any vineyard equipment needed to maintain the property. This ravine runs almost directly north to south allowing for optimum sun exposure for the vines.
Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2013 ($30, release to be determined, 91 points) — Compared to the above wine, a much more organic, classic style of Syrah with a nose of grilled meats, garrigue, forest floor, pepper, spice, mineral and a range of red fruits and barrel nuances. There is a complex array of savoury spice on the palate to go with raspberry and anise fruit, charred cedar and a vibrant core of acidity that carries through a long finish.
Proprietor’s Block
The Proprietor’s Block Syrah consists of the youngest Syrah planted at the estate. These vines were planted in 2007 along with a block of Viognier. This property is also the furthest west on the estate planted on a section of flat land next to the ravine and the Silver Bailey Bridge. The soils here have higher loam content and less elevation variance allowing for earlier ripening.
Kacaba Proprietor’s Block Syrah 2013 ($30, release to be determined, 92 points) — Such a beauty, and a perfect example of cool-climate Ontario Syrah at its best. The nose is exciting with beetroot, cracked pepper, currants, bay leaves, dried herbs and rich red fruits. It is savoury and raw on the palate with toasted spices, pepper, anise, concentrated cherry and raspberry, licorice and campfire smoke all built on a solid structure that builds through a lengthy finish. Buy, hold and enjoy.
Kacaba Oak Aged Chardonnay 2014 ($25, 89 points) — A nose of buttery oak spice, Asian pear, vanilla, cloves and apple notes. It’s creamy and rich on the palate with poached pear, apple, barrel spices and touch of citrus on the finish. Very nice.
Henry of Pelham
Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut ($30, 91 points) — A blend of about 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay made in the traditional bubbly method. The nose is lovely with biscuit, cherry, raspberry and subtle herb and rhubarb notes. On the palate it’s quite dry and refreshing with crisp red fruits, pomegranate, apple, citrus, bramble and toasty vanilla notes through a lively, bright finish.
Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve 2013 ($25, 90 points) — Fans will love this robust version of old-vine Baco from Henry of Pelham. It’s meaty, dark and intense on the nose with aromas of plums, smoky spices, cherry liqueur, sweet oak and bramble. It’s quite rich and savoury on the palate with flavours of plum pudding, pepper, anise, campfire smoke and a range of spice with good vibrancy through the finish.
Henry of Pelham Rose 2015 ($14, 87 points) — An all-inclusive blend of (are you ready?) … Pinot Noir, Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It has a vibrant and aromatic nose of cranberry, raspberry, herbs and cherry. It’s tasty on the palate with a dry profile to go with ripe red fruits and a freshening finish.
Flat Rock Cellars
Flat Rock Cellars Unplugged Chardonnay 2014 ($17, Vintages Feb. 20, 88 points) — This essentially “unoaked” Chardonnay was fermented and aged in the winery’s oldest neutral barrels to add texture, not spice. It’s fresh and pure on the nose with notes of citrus, pear, pineapple and a subtle creamy note. It’s crisp on the palate with lemon, pear and melon with good texture and vibrancy through the finish.
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2013 ($19, Vintages April 16, 90 points) — An attractive nose of toasted oak/spice, pear, vanilla, and hints of citrus. It’s nicely integrated on the palate with oak, spice, pear and mineral notes all coming together (with a citrus zing) on the finish.
Flat Rock Cellars Twisted 2014 ($17, 88 points) — This is Flat Rock’s fun proprietary white aromatic blend of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay. It’s fresh and fruity on the nose with notes of peach, citrus, lemon and green apple. It’s crisp on the palate with a delightful collage of fresh fruit flavours bolstered by racy acidity. Great summer sipper.
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2014 ($17, 88 points) — An appealing nose of lime, fresh citrus, tangerine and minerals. It’s made in an off-dry style with lemon, a touch of peach and nectarine with a lime-zest finish.
Peninsula Ridge
Peninsula Ridge Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2104 ($16, Vintages March 5, 89 points) — From the estate’s Beamsville Bench vineyards and aged in French and American oak for 12 months, the nose shows attractive pear, vanilla, marzipan, cloves and toasted oak spice. It’s vibrant and delicious on the palate with green apple, pear and a balanced approach to the spice.
Maverick Distillery (Oakville)
Chantilly French Cream, Ontario ($30, LCBO, 91 points) — From the Maverick Distillery in Oakville, Ont., comes this absolutely delicious liqueur made from fresh dairy cream and all natural flavours. Serve over ice and look for a nose of malted dairy cream, smoky maple, and roasted nuts. It’s rich and velvety with flavours of rich cream, cocoa, vanilla, maple and toasted almonds.
Tag No. 5 Double Espresso Vodka, Ontario ($26, 90 points) — The Maverick Distillery in Oakville, Ont., flavours this gluten-free, non-GMO, corn based “all-natural” vodka with espresso for a smooth and luxurious spirit enjoyed on its own or as an add-on hot coffee drinks. It has a smoky, rich nose of roasted coffee beans, vanilla and spice. There is ample sweetness on the palate to balance out the heat (35% abv) and add lift to the espresso flavours.
Havana Club Rum
Havana Club Selección de Maestros Rum, Cuba ($60, LCBO, 40% abv, 93 points) — This is a triple barrel-aged rum that’s finished in white oak barrels. It is a super-premium rum, amber in colour, that deserves to be enjoyed simply on its own in a snifter. Such a robust and spicy nose of caramel, toffee, wet tobacco, vanilla, cloves and citrus peel. It is remarkably smooth on the palate with a rich profile of spiced caramel/toffee, dried fruits, marmalade and perfect balance through the long and complex finish.
Spain
González Byass Nutty Solera Medium Oloroso Sherry ($17, Vintages, 91 points) — This interesting (and affordable!) sherry was made specifically for the Canadian marketplace. It is a delight with a nose of figs, roasted nuts, sweet spice, raisin, toffee and Espresso notes. It’s medium sweet on the palate, pleasantly so, with rich and earthy flavours of dried fruits, almonds, prunes and a range of sweet spices. So good to the last drop.
New Zealand
Saint Clair Family Estate Chardonnay 2014, Marlborough ($17, Vintages, 90 points) — A lovely nose of lemon, pear, apple, subtle spice and swirling mineral notes. A nicely balanced Chard on the palate with a refreshing citrus core followed by spice and melon notes. Light and fruity with a zesty finish.
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