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It’s all in the family: Henry of Pelham’s Family Tree wines lead local Niagara releases at Vintages Saturday

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Henry of Pelham winery in Niagara has always been about family. Three brothers — Paul, Daniel and Matt — run the show and seem to have a lot of fun doing it.

There are several tiers and labels in the family business including Sibling Rivalry and Family Tree, which plays off the brothers’ love of family and the ties that bind.

Two of the Family Tree wines are featured at the Vintages release this Saturday, March 5.

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Family Tree wines are made from fruit sourced from not only Henry of Pelham estate vineyards on the Short Hills Bench, but also those of the winery’s friends, neighbours and “distant cousins” across the Niagara Peninsula. The brand celebrates the idea of family.

There is no one grape variety in the Family Tree wines. Instead, the winery uses the best fruit from each site and marries them with other complementary grape varieties from neighbouring vineyards.

It’s Henry of Pelham’s way of “creating easy going wines of sophistication that are a reflection of the people and place that they come from.”

I’ve always appreciated the value these wines represent. You get a well-made wine, always a blend, at an affordable price. They are made in a full, generous and accessible style that can be enjoyed early or tucked away in the cellar for a little bottle age.

Two new releases of Family Tree wines kick off the local wine highlights hitting Vintages shelves Saturday (plus a special treat from B.C.)

2010-familytree-whiteHenry of Pelham Family Tree White 2012 ($18, 89 points) — Henry of Pelham’s Family Tree line of wines has always punched above its weight and this is no different, offering good value for what you get. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc with 40% of the fruit seeing some oak aging. The nose shows honeysuckle, pear, citrus, lychee, melon and spice. It’s robust and fully mature on the palate with a broad range of ripe tropical fruits, lovely integrated spice notes and a kiss of vanilla.

family-tree-redHenry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2013 ($19, 88 points) — A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Baco Noir that gets its kick-ass personality from the Syrah. The nose is peppery with dark plums, currants, cherries and savoury spices chiming in. The palate reveals ripe dark fruits, earth, pepper, dried herbs and spices.

Henry of Pelham Estate Cabernet-Merlot 2012 ($25, March 19 at Vintages, 91 points) — Henry of Pelham does a lot of things right from the grapes that grow best in Niagara, and, in particular, the Short Hills Bench sub-appellation, but red blends from Bordeaux grapes in warm vintages is certainly one of its strong suits. I am convinced, now that I have seen most of the 2012 reds released, that this warm vintage was just about perfect for Niagara’s “big” reds — the blends from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This mid-tier red blend from the above grapes is just getting better in the bottle and still has a long way to go. Such a lovely, rich and enticing nose of blackberry, kirsch, cassis and oak barrel spices. It rocks on the palate, gorgeous, layered dark fruits, rousing spices, melting tannins and everything starting to harmonize beautifully. Exceptional value for a top Niagara red.

Also coming out at Vintages Saturday:

cq5dam.web.1280.1280-1Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2014 ($17, 88 points) — Whole-cluster pressed juice from the estate’s 20 Mile Bench vineyards, this is a delicious and mouth-watering Riesling with a bright and expressive nose of citrus, tangerine and grapefruit. Made slightly off-dry with firm, balancing acidity and a friendly play between  sweet-tart citrus and lime flavours. Bring on summer!

Peninsula Ridge Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2104 ($16, 89 points) — From the estate’s Beamsville Bench vineyards and aged in French and American oak for 12 months, the nose shows attractive pear, vanilla, marzipan, cloves and toasted oak spice. It’s vibrant and delicious on the palate with green apple, pear and a balanced approach to the spice.

cq5dam.web.1280.128013th Street Burger Blend 2014 ($15, LCBO general list, 87 points) — A blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this casual, easy-drinking red was brought back into the portfolio after a bit of a hiatus. It shows pure red fruits with touches of earth, cassis and plums on the nose. It’s bright and cheery on the palate with cherry, raspberry and cassis fruit.

A nice treat from B.C.’s Similkameen Valley:

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Forbidden Fruit Pearsuasion 2013, Similkameen Valley ($21, 90 points) — This is a dry white fruit wine made from 90% certified organic Asian pears and 10% certified organic Euro pears aged briefly in French oak. So enticing on the nose with aromas of poached pear, soft vanilla and a nice smoky ginger note. It’s rich and full-bodied on the palate with ripe and spicy pear flavours and a fairly dry profile.

Other Niagara wines being released, but not reviewed:

Ridgepoint Ripasso Merlot 2011 ($20)
Angels Gate Snow Angel Riesling Icewine 2013 ($30 for 200 mL)
Fielding Estate Gewurztraminer 2013 ($19)
Kew Vineyards Old Vine Chardonnay 2012 ($19)
13th Street Red Palette 2013 ($16)