By Rick VanSickle
It’s no secret that Syrah is a superstar in the Okanagan Valley, and a recent tasting of three of them side-by-side, all from separate terroirs, shows just how wildly diverse this grape can be in B.C. wine country.
Rust Wine Co. has just released its latest trio of 2018 Syrahs, one each from the Black Sage Bench, Golden Mile Bench and South Cawston in the Similkameen Valley. A fourth example from Rust is being added a year from now with the 2019 bottling from the estate’s Okanagan Falls vineyard, which was planted in 2016.
Head winemaker Jeff Hundertmark, above has quickly and remarkably put his fingerprint on the wine portfolios of Rust and sister winery Mt. Boucherie. The veteran winemaker left a successful career in Niagara in 2017 (Stoney Ridge, Marynissen and his own vitural label) to take the helm at Rust. In quick order we have seen both Rust and Mt. Boucherie come to the attention of serious wine lovers with two diverse portfolios.
“The main differences between the two wineries is Rust is focused on small lots of Merlot from four different vineyards and four different Syrahs (three currently released) with all wines vinified identically, with the only difference being the vineyard site” Hundertmark recently told Wines In Niagara. “Rust also focuses on older vintage Zinfandel, some of the oldest Gewurztraminer, an easy drinking Cab Franc and Gamay.”
Hundertmark believes his estate Gamay is the best he’s ever made and working with estate Syrahs “that come onto my crush pad, phenolically ripe AND 26 brix is pretty (insert your favourite swear word here) brilliant!”
Since he spoke with Wines In Niagara, Hundertmark says that while the philosophy of treating the Syrahs as similarly as possible in the cellar continues, “we have made some notable changes particularly in the vineyards. In 2018 our picking dates moved up a week or two for all three wines, in an effort to harness the Brix levels a bit. We are continuing to see enhanced quality emerging from our estate vineyards as Brett (Theissen) farms them more and more responsibly, as well as the benefits from winery investments, which were first seen in 2018.
The two wineries combined have just under 200 acres of vinifera to draw from, with a move recently to farm more sustainability using organic and biodynamic practices.
He explains the diversity of vineyards and appellations where they are grown this way:
“Starting in the north, our home farm at Mt. Boucherie in West Kelowna is planted to Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, and Gew, all of which is field blended and vinified together into our rosé for Mt. Boucherie,” he says. “Heading south, we have vineyards in Okanagan Falls, called Lost Horn Vineyard, which is incredibly stony and treacherously uninviting for most farming, but grapes love it! (think Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Next is our vineyard at Rust Wine Co. on the Golden Mile Bench (called South Rock Vineyard). Here we have again lots of stones, but also transitioning into sandy loam. This vineyard gets some of the longest growing degree-days in the area, and is located in the first sub-GI in B.C. We then control two more vineyards on the Golden Mile and three vineyards in Osoyoos and Black Sage Bench. Moving over to the Similkameen Valley, our (Lazy River Vineyard) in South Cawston, is the largest of our holdings at 75 acres and is home to the lion’s share of the grapes going into the Mt. Boucherie portfolio.
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The climate of the Similkameen is incredibly desert-like, with intensely dry heat in the daytime, and diurnal shifts of sometimes 25-30 degrees at night! The combination of sunshine and heat in the day providing sugar and ripeness, tempered with cool nights to help preserve the grapes and retain some of the much-needed acidity is key. Adding to the specialness of the area is the air movement, being planted on a massive slope with an icy cold mountain river at the bottom of the valley, the air as it blows down the valley, cycles and is constantly moderating. We also have another piece of land up in North Cawston which is being prepared for planting (this) year as our first 100% organic vineyard.”
All three of the 2018 Syrahs made by Hundertmark are gorgeous examples of this grape, but all three bring something a little different. I suggest buying all three and taste them side-by-side as a text book lesson on the differences in terroir in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valley.
Here’s what I can recommend:
Rust Wine Co. Syrah Similkameen Valley 2018 ($44, 92 points) — All of these Syrahs, as noted above, have been made essentially the same way. So, 16 months in American and French oak, which the French part using around 40% new wood. All the wines are unfined and unfiltered, and finished around 13.5% abv. This one, from the estate Lazy River Vineyard, which benefits from warm days and cooler nights, has an enticing and savoury nose of brambly field raspberries, boysenberries, sage, meaty/earthy notes, black currants, dark chocolate and elegant spices. It’s bold and smooth on the palate, but bright, with layers of anise, red and black currants, savoury herbs, raspberry preserves, toasty vanilla and spice all leading to a lifted finish. Lots of room here to improve in the cellar.
Rust Wine Co. Syrah Golden Mile Bench 2018 ($44, 93 points) — From the South Rock Vineyard, this Syrah is a bit riper on the nose with meaty/peppery blackberries, plums, black cherries, anise, earth, lavender, spicy charcuterie and a balanced approach to the allspice. The fine-grained tannins on the palate offer a smooth entry with notes of kirsch, anise, black licorice, dried herbs, savoury spices, cocoa and electric acidity on the finish. Can cellar 5+ years.
Rust Wine Co. Syrah Okanagan Valley 2018 ($44, 94 points) — From the Ferreira Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench in the warmest part of the Okanagan in Oliver. I suspect my score here is a reflection of the style of Syrah I prefer — big, bold and ripe — otherwise this trio of Syrahs is hard to differentiate quality wise. This has a bold, jammy nose of overt black currants, black olives, cassis, garrigue, black and red peppercorns, spice and meaty/savoury notes. It’s plush and round on the palate with thick dark berries, earthy/peppery notes, sage, cured meats, spice cake and a long, echoing finish that’s lifted and bright.
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