By Rick VanSickle
As the LCBO acted swiftly to remove all U.S. booze from its store shelves last week, Ontario wineries scrambled to fill the suddenly vast empty spaces.
Note, also in this Niagara Wine Report: Our picks from the Vintages release Saturday, including, Peninsula Ridge, Domaine Le Clos Jordanne, Bachelder Wines, Hidden Bench, Liebling and Featherstone.
The Ontario Craft Winery association worked side by side with the LCBO and Ontario government last week to push for more 100% Ontario VQA wines to fill the shelves where once California wines dominated. It has resulted in a new product call and free tastings for consumers visiting LCBO stores.
“The LCBO is proud to support local year-round, and we are currently looking for additional opportunities for collaborative marketing and merchandising efforts amidst renewed customer interest and demand for Ontario-made products,” the LCBO said.
The new product call, named “Support Ontario,” will take effect in the coming promotional periods. The LCBO is inviting small Ontario VQA wineries to help fill the shelves in sections that previously held U.S. products as a result of a trade war between U.S. president Donald Trump and Canada. “This call is only for products that are not currently listed in LCBO (any channel) or in the process of being listed or ordered for any LCBO channel,” the LCBO said.
The LCBO said that participating products will be in stores quickly from Period Two through Six in 2025-2026. “The products might be replenished based on sales during the duration (P2-P6). Although products will be delisted after P6, successful listings may be considered for future calls,” according to the LCBO. The call closes this Friday (March 14).
The LCBO is also offering free tastings for Ontario products between Periods Two and Six. The LCBO will offer “all locally produced products free regular consumer tastings at any of its 365 participating LCBO stores. Brands will only have to cover the product at landed cost. “This will help you to introduce Ontarians to your products, your brand story and help to drive sales,” the LCBO said.
Interested parties should contact the Ontario Craft Winery association if you need help navigating LCBO protocols.
Meanwhile, LCBO stores have taken on a striking new look as they improvise on shelves that once held a robust array of California wines in both the General List and Vintages sections, plus Kentucky bourbon in the spirits section. Right now, the general list VQA section is mainly being populated by big Canadian wine companies while the small producers ramp up their effort to get onto LCBO stores.
Another aspect in all of this, is the twice-monthly Vintages release. The next release is this Saturday and there wasn’t enough time to change the magazine that supports the release. A pile of California wines and one from Washington were scheduled to hit shelves March 15, including: Francis Ford Coppola Sauvignon Blanc, Ironstone Chardonnay, J. Lohr Chardonnay, Phantom Chardonnay, Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon, Joel Gott Pinot Noir, Josh Cabernet Sauvignon, Le Crema Pinot Noir, Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon, Submission Cabernet Sauvignon, and one from Washington, Intrinsic Cabernet Sauvignon. But don’t fret, dear reader, lots of extraordinary Ontario wines are in this release and will perfectly replace those Cali wines. Elbows UP, we’ve got this!
Here is what we can recommend from the Niagara wines being released Saturday:
Peninsula Ridge Reserve Meritage 2022 ($30, new review, 93 points) — The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 13% Malbec all from the estate vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The wine is aged in 2nd and 3rd fill French and American oak barriques for 14 months. This has a big, ripe nose of blackberries, black currants, cherry liqueur, anise, a touch of eucalypt and generous spice notes. The dense, dark berries, cherry cola, anise and licorice on the palate shine through the firm tannic backbone and lead to a lingering, spicy finish with lift and finesse. Very nice ,robust red. Can cellar to 2032.
Note: See below for two more Peninsula Ridge wines come to the LCBO General List.
Bachelder Les Villages Bench Chardonnay 2022 ($35, Flagship stores and online only, 93 points) — The Wismer and Saunders sourced fruit from the Bench is quite the elegant expression of Chardonnay at this level. The nose is wispy, flinty, and laced with saline freshness follow by lemon zest, pear, apple skin and elegant spice notes. It’s such a mineral bomb on the palate with a complex array of stone fruits, bergamot, citrus zest, lemon cream and a lifted, long finish. A delight.
Bachelder Wismer-Parke Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 ($55, Flagship stores and online only, 93 points) — From the sweet spot on the Twenty Mile Bench, on reddish magnesium and dolomitic-limestone clay soils with a solid silt component, this is one of two expressions of the Wismer-Parke Vineyard. The plumpest and juiciest of the Pinots thus far going east to west with an assertive nose of ripe Morello cherries, black raspberries, forest floor, lavender, crunchy pomegranate and savoury spices. It shows dense red berries, plums and anise on the palate with chalky, ripe tannins, flecks of bloody/iron minerality, earthy/savoury notes on a silky frame and a long, lifted finish. Can cellar until 2031.
Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2020 ($25, 92 points) — The estate Riesling is a blend of all three Hidden Bench vineyards. The nose shows gushing lime, nectarine, white pear and yellow apple notes. It’s juicy, bright and carries a mineral edge on the palate to go with lime/citrus, green apples, peach tart, a touch of sweetness and feisty, lifted finish keeping it all in balance. Can cellar to 2029.
Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2021 ($30, 92 points) — If you took this sensational “Village” level Chardonnay to Burgundy and poured it for locals at this price they would be shocked. It represents incredible value for what you get. Such a generous nose of saline and wet stones with ripe pear, yellow apple, lemon freshness and perfumed/spice notes. It has a comforting creamy texture on the palate to go with ripe pear, quince, lemon curd, stony minerality and spice with a fresh, lifted finish. Great wine, incredible value and ready to drink now or in the next three years.
Liebling Andrews Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($22, 89 points) — The grapes for this Sauvignon Blanc are from the Andrews Vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation planted in 2012 to the 530 clone. It’s fresh and floral on the nose with juicy citrus, kiwi, tropical notes, and an interesting grassy/herb note. It’s perfectly dry, refreshing, and crisp on the palate with notes of pear, herbs, zesty grapefruit, passion fruit and a bright, clean finish.
Featherstone Gamay Noir 2021 ($19, 91 points) — This Gamay is aged in American oak barrels for 10 months. The aromas of black cherries, plums, red currants, anise, smoke and pepper leap from the glass. It’s juicy and bold with light tannins, bright red berries, pomegranate, a touch of spice and a tangy, lifted finish.
Also released, but not reviewed by Wines in Niagara:
• Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2023 ($25)
• The Organized Crime Break-In Pinot Noir 2021 ($25)
• Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2021 ($40)
• Twenty Bees Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (25)
• Fielding Cabernet Franc 2022 ($26)
• Peller Private Reserve Meritage 2021 ($30)
• Rosewood Semillon 2022 ($22)
• Trius Distinction Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20)
• Hare Series Dry Riesling 2022 ($22)
Two more wines from Peninsula Ridge
The following two reviews from Peninsular Ridge are General List wines and always available available at the LCBO.
Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($17, 89 points) — The nose is crisp and bright with kiwi, grapefruit, lime zest and lovely herbaceous notes. All that freshness carries to the palate with citrus notes, gooseberries, kiwi, and herbs on a lifted, tangy finish.
Peninsula Ridge Pinot Grigio 2024 ($17, 89 points) — This is a highly aromatic wine with notes of bruised apple, peach, apricot, a touch of ginger and yellow pear. It has a creamy texture with ripe orchard fruits, apricot tart and, yes, that unique ginger note on a rounded finish.
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