By Lidija Biro
East of the Don River and spanning 10 blocks along Queen Street is the neighbourhood of Riverside — “Toronto’s small town in the big city.”
It’s an eclectic mix of eateries, cafes, shops, arts, culture, and architecture of some historic significance. Notable among them are the Broadview Hotel, The Opera House, Riverside Bridge, Toronto’s first baseball grounds, Eastbound Brewing Company and De Grassi Street.
Nestled along this Queen Street strip is a neighbourhood wine bar, aptly called Chez Nous. Cosy and comfortable, it was one of the first to offer a wine list comprised solely of Ontario wines. Owner Laura Carr, seen in very top photo, wanted to recreate what she had experienced while travelling in Europe and New Zealand, where when you order a glass of wine it’s not by grape, brand or winery name. As she puts it, “It’s simply red, white or rosé.” And the focus is always on local.
Wines in Niagara sat down with Carr for this, the 4th in a series of articles called The Mavericks, showcasing individuals who champion Ontario wines.
Wines in Niagara: Why did you decide on this area of Toronto for your wine bar?
Laura Carr: I knew the area. I lived not too far away, and I worked just down Queen Street East. Actually, the real estate agent I was working with had previously been part owner of the business that was here before me. It was a cocktail and snack bar which was perfect, a simple set up with no beer taps or huge storage area. I knew I wanted it to be just a wine focused bar. When I walked in, I was like ‘yes’ this is all I need.
It’s cool and on a corner with a gorgeous entrance in a historic building so I was not worried about the whole thing getting ripped down anytime soon.
I also liked the neighbourhood here. Before COVID it was kind of young, alternative, with lots of life to it. It has changed but is still very community focused; it’s really like a village here. Everybody knows everybody and all the businesses are friendly and cooperative, so that’s great.
WIN: So, what changes have you seen since COVID?
Carr: It’s gotten too expensive for young people. There were many rent-evictions over COVID. Now it’s more youngish couples with kids who are not going to bars at 11 p.m. on a Wednesday. So, business has shifted. It can be very quiet Monday through Thursday and then Friday night I am turning people away as there is nowhere to sit, and the same for Saturday. It’s kind of like everybody saves it all up during the week and goes out large on the weekends. So, it’s a little bit frustrating wondering how much business I lost because we were over-full on Friday and also tricky to staff.
WIN: Why did you decide to focus solely on Ontario wine?
Carr: So that’s wine by the glass. We also do craft beer, seltzers, non-alcoholic, and now we do more cocktails than anything else. When we first started, I was pretty strict about nothing but wine, but that was eight years ago, and the scene has changed.
But to go back to your question, I could see no one was really doing all Ontario wine. There are so few wine bars to begin with and many who call themselves that are really restaurants. I wanted a bar that was somewhere you did not have to plan to go, just pop in, very casual, an everyday kind of thing. And no one was doing that, and no one was doing local. Also, I’m from Niagara. I know these wines and I was always interested. So, I thought why not.
WIN: The hesitation to embrace Ontario wine, do you think it’s a Toronto thing or a generational thing?
Carr: I think it’s more generational than anything else. When I first opened up the bar, it was definitely, ‘Oh, I don’t like Ontario wine.’ But that was only really coming from GenX and older. Then COVID came, it highlighted how we should be supporting local and now it’s far more common to hear, ‘Oh, all Ontario wine, cool!’
You still get the occasional Boomer or older GenXer for whom that is an issue. But when I come across that all I can think is … ‘There’s nothing I can do for you; this isn’t the place for you, go somewhere else.’
Yeah, my customers are between 25-45 for the most part. There are a few GenZs and they get it. They’ve gotten with the program. I mean, they’re definitely more into the funky, low intervention stuff. Millennials are pretty much on board. We do get some older people during those slow weeknights who are going out on dates. But they don’t put up much fuss about ‘all Ontario wine’ — because nobody wants to look bad on a date.
WIN: You have been supporting Ontario wine for a long time. What changes have you noticed in the industry?
Carr: There’s more willingness to ride trends, like the natural, low intervention thing. I’m a little conflicted on that front because it’s not my cup of tea or what I like to drink. I’m much more into polished, classic or traditional styles. But I do carry a bunch of funkier things. I tell myself that if it introduces someone to a local wine or winery, then that’s a good thing.
My mantra used to be that I did not want to stock anything that I would not drink myself. I’m still kind of like that. I don’t want to stock something from someone that I don’t want to give money to — like big conglomerates. I’d rather give money to small operations. I like it when winemakers themselves come in and drop off their wine, one or two cases at a time. It shows that it is valuable to them that I am here supporting their business.
WIN: Do you think that you have a role in educating customers about Ontario wine?
Carr: A little bit, if someone wants to be educated. But I’m kind of past that point now where I actively try to win hearts and minds. If you asked me eight years ago, I would have said yes, for sure. But now the larger movement is doing the heavy lifting for me. Of course, I can tell pretty quickly how interested someone is in wine and I want to be able to answer questions and proliferate knowledge if possible. But I don’t want to convert anyone who does not want to be converted.
I prefer all that to be under the radar. You don’t have to think about it much — by default, it’s just a good local product. I like the idea of that idea slowly creeping in and more and more places offering it.
WIN: Following that same train of thought, on what marketing strategies should the Ontario wine industry be focusing?
Carr: I think harping about quality and supporting local. They need to highlight people who are making wine. Put faces to it, humanize the product, show customers that wine is made so close to Toronto by real, genuine people who just want to make a good thing.
And this is not wine that needs to be put in a cellar for a few years. Who has a cellar? People my age and younger don’t care about laying a bottle down for five years. We want to drink something tonight that is fun and interesting and delicious. Nobody gives a crap about prestige bottles and showing off to your friends. Marketing has to get away from that. It’s got to be democratized.
WIN: What do you think about the premiumization trend of wine?
Carr: Well, it’s off-putting for younger generations. When you have wineries charging $80 or $100 a bottle right off the bat, that’s fine for those people who can afford it. But most people my age will never be able to afford a house so we’re not looking to buy an $80 bottle of anything. We’re a relatively young industry, the wines taste young in that fresh, juicy way, even reds … so just lean into that.
WIN: To what do you attribute the success of your business model? You’ve been in operation now for eight years.
Carr: Just being here all the time, creating a community, and people say it’s a ‘very comfortable atmosphere.’ That was the idea when I first got going. I did not want a fancy wine bar; I wanted it to be somewhere you could go at the end of your shift and have a couple of glasses or have a beer and sit in your sweatpants while doing laundry next door. It has to be casual otherwise it is pointless.
“Sometimes you wanna go
Where everybody knows your name
And they’re always glad you came”
(Cheers, TV 1980s Sitcom)
WIN: If you were not running the bar, what else could you see yourself doing?
Carr: I don’t know, which is why I am still doing this. It’s a passion. I’m curious to see how this summer plays out because there are a few things happening. Obviously, the cost of living is spinning out of control and people don’t always have the disposable income to have fun at a bar. Also, people are into wellness and drinking less so I have to keep as many non-alcoholic options as possible to attract those who want to go out and use the space but don’t drink. In this business each year can be different and unpredictable.
WIN: If you had to choose an Ontario wine as a favourite, what would it be and why?
Carr: Right now, I like a light-bodied Gamay, probably with a bit of chill on it. I just opened the Bachelder Les Villages. I love Gamay in general and Thomas (Bachelder) does a nice job expressing the terroir and the grape’s character. It’s very distinct.
Up on the bar shelves, right next to Bachelder is Malivoire’s Demo Series Analog — a really cool blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc, the best of both worlds. Malivoire has always been big here, especially the Melon — it’s been a fan favourite here for the last couple of seasons. That will be one of the whites by the glass for the summer, I think.
Some of Laura Carr’s favourite sippers:
Bachelder Les Villages Gamay Noir Niagara 2023 ($26, 91 points) — “When we were doing blending trials for this assemblage,” said Thomas Bachelder, “we were looking for the most honest representation we could find of Niagara, with the goal of making people fall in love with Gamay Noir.” The Gamay Villages can be thought of as a combination of all 10 of the “crus”, with a red-fruited nose, subtle floral notes, touch of blueberries and lighter savoury/earthy notes. The palate reveals ripe raspberries, Morello cherries, anise, plums, saddle leather, subtle earthy/spicy notes in a juicy style with a lifted finish. Good to drink now. (Reviewed by Rick VanSickle)
Malivoire Demo Series Analog 2023 ($28, 90 points) — Here is an energetic, fresh, bright and very quaffable medium-bodied red wine. It’s a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Gamay Noir. Vinification included carbonic maceration of Gamay (whole cluster bunches) then co-fermentation with destemmed Cabernet Franc in concrete tank and followed by 8 months of aging in French oak (10% new). Aromas of mulberry, cherry and raspberry, as well as floral, earthy and spice notes entice you to take a sip. The palate follows with plum, savoury bell pepper and tomato leaf, a touch of spice and light tannic grip on the finish. Only 254 cases made. (Reviewed by Lidija Biro, May 3, 2025)
Malivoire Melon 2024 ($25, 89 points) — No wonder this wine is a favourite sipper at Chez Nous Wine Bar. Rick VanSickle calls it ‘summer in a glass’. It’s perfect for the patio, light and refreshing with only 12% alcohol. It’s crafted from 100% Melon de Bourgogne grapes (of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine fame) from Malivoire Estate Vineyard and Mottiar Vineyards. The fruit was whole bunch pressed, fermented, and aged in stainless steel tanks with extended lees contact. The wine is fresh, zesty and linear with aromas of lime, green apple and melon. The palate offers citrus and nectarine flavours with a saline mineral finish. Only 250 cases made. (Reviewed by Lidija Biro May 3, 2025)
For the latest news, events and specials, follow Laura Carr @ChezNousToronto on Instagram here.
Chez Nous is open daily from 5 p.m. and is located at 798 Queen Street East (Toronto, Ontario M4M 1H4). Happy hour daily from 5-7 p.m. Half-priced bottles after 11 p.m. and all-day Sundays. Offers snacks but guests can bring outside food. Outdoor patio available and gender-neutral washrooms. No reservations needed.
About writer Lidija Biro
Lidija Biro, wine writer and blogger, is passionate about wine and particularly Ontario wine. She completed her DipWSET as well as the Winery and Viticulture Technician Program at Niagara College, and the French Wine Scholar program with Wine Scholar Guild. Adding to her wine knowledge, she’s tried her hand at making wine, pruning and planting vines, doing harvests, and working in wine sales and marketing. But she says there is always more to know and that’s what makes the world of wine so fascinating!
You can find her blog here (https://divine-vines.ca/) and follow her on Instagram here as well as LinkedIn here.
She also writes about wine for other publications.
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