By Rick VanSickle
Fielding Estate Winery is a beacon of goodness perched high atop the Beamsville Bench with endless views and one of the most diverse wine portfolios in Niagara.
The family owned and run winery is celebrating its 20th anniversary this summer, a well-deserved pat on the back for two decades of innovation, excellence in winemaking and enticing wine lovers to Niagara to experience all the region has to offer from its comfy Muskoka chairs, and a warm, friendly vibe. And by the way, you are all invited (see details below).
Ken and Marg Fielding, along with their son Curtis and his wife Heidi (above), opened the winery doors in 2005. From the very beginning, Fielding established its place alongside other Niagara wineries as an inviting place to relax and enjoy small lot VQA wines over several different tiers.
The architecture of the winery is influenced by the Fielding’s northern Ontario roots in the Haliburton Highlands. The contemporary Canadian design is inspired by elements found in nature — wood, stone and sunlight. With the natural finishes and earthy tones, the design allows all the facets of nature to become one. It’s the perfect setting to sit on the lodge deck or outdoor lounge to enjoy the wines and spectacular views that look out over Lake Ontario to Toronto in the distance.
The wines, made by Richie Roberts (above) since 2008, and assistant winemaker Clark Tyler who joined the team in 2017, are sourced from a combination of the estate’s two vineyards — the home vineyard in front of the winery and the Tufford Road Vineyard closer to Lake Ontario — and trusted growers, including one of Robert’s favourite sites, the Lowrey Vineyard in St. David’s for Pinot Noir and Syrah.
The wines are labelled with either a black or white label — black meaning estate and white meaning sourced fruit or a combination of both. There are also the ground-breaking and popular Long Weekend wines that started out as one of the first boxed VQA wines in Ontario, and now consists of several fruit-forward styles in bottles that are perfect for the cottage, pool-side sipping and “any days ending in y.” You can find these affordable wines in the LCBO, grocery, select restaurants and at the winery. As Heidi Fielding says, “people know they can get a very good wine at a good price.”
Fielding Estate, in the hands of Heidi and Curt Fielding, has been a leader in moving quickly to react to consumer tastes and pivoting during times of uncertainty. Who remembers the “igloos” during the COVID years? Fielding was one of the first (if not the first) to establish those self-contained domes that allowed wine lovers to taste in safety during the winter months when tasting rooms were closed. They were among the first with the Long Weekend boxed wine and have always been quick to move off wines that weren’t selling while maintaining the core portfolio and finding new styles that consumers were gravitating to. They have also been fortunate to have a robust selection of their wines perform well at LCBO stores. Craft ciders were added to the portfolio, with Fielding among the first in Niagara to offer a non-wine tipple.
We thought it appropriate to discuss the success of Fielding Estate Winery by asking Heidi and Curt Fielding and Roberts to reflect on two decades of trend setting. Here’s what they had to say in their own words.
Two burning questions for Curtis and Heidi Fielding
Wines in Niagara: Can you take us back to the moment you decided to plant grapes and build a winery on the Beamsville Bench? What was your vision?
Curtis and Heidi Fielding: My parents and I spent about a year looking for a property to plant grapes and build the winery. We drove all around Niagara and when we came to the now winery property, we knew it was perfect. We really liked the small town feel of Beamsville and the quietness of the area. The view was amazing, and the soil was absolutely perfect for grape growing.
After planting the vineyard in 2001, we learned quickly it was best suited to Riesling and Chardonnay, so we made the painful and expensive decision to pull the varietals that were not thriving and replanted again. Fun times! Luckily, we also purchased a well-established vineyard at the same time located about five km from the winery site, closer to the lake, where varietals like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris grow very well.
We wanted to be a warm and hospitable winery, “a retreat” where our guests could come and enjoy premium wines and feel very comfortable whether they were a wine expert or just learning!
The winery design was “contemporary Canadiana architecture” with state-of-the-art winemaking equipment but still felt very welcoming – like a modern cottage. We called the retail tasting room the Wine Lodge. Our guests would drive from all over just to sit in a Muskoka chair on the deck with a glass of wine and take in the beautiful view of the vineyards stretching to Lake Ontario.
WIN: What changed from your initial vision in 2005 and the critical pivots you have made to become successful 20 years later? In other words, how has the industry changed and how have you reacted to those changes?
The Fieldings: In the early years, it was all about the tasting bar experience. Guests would visit, taste with our team at the tasting bar and purchase on their way out. Our wines were not available at the LCBO for our first few years but, as opportunities opened up for small wineries by 2007, we were able to list a couple wines at the LCBO. Over the 20 years, we have grown our wine production at a steady pace without compromising quality. Our wines are now sold throughout Alberta and into Quebec.
We noticed a shift in the consumer wanting to stay longer at the winery, enjoy a glass of wine with a simple cheese plate. It became more about an experience. Wine fixtures were moved around in the Wine Lodge to accommodate seating. This trend continued to flourish and by 2019 we began a huge undertaking of our outdoor Vineyard Lounge with approximately 100 seats for guests to come and enjoy flights, wine by the glass and our newly released craft ciders.
All the furniture was bought, the project went ahead and then … Covid hit. Little did we know, the project couldn’t have come at a better time as, by its completion (June of 2020), wineries were allowed to open back up to the public and only serve wine to guests seated at tables in outdoor spaces. We were ready!
That year (2020) we purchased 10 outdoor wine domes and in the winter months, we offer our guests a cosy dome experience to enjoy their wines and ciders. To our delight and relief, it was quite a hit and we continue to offer the domes in the winter months.
In 2023, we expanded our food offerings to offer a simple “shareables” menu and work closely with CHZ PLZ for items that complement our wines and ciders.
Not all ideas and risks have been successful, so to know when to change something that’s not working has been key.
Our winemaking team has done an incredible job. Our winemaker (Roberts) has been making our wines for 17 years. The care and consistency in his winemaking has been an important factor in the success of the winery. Under his direction, our winemaking team produces beautiful, quality driven wines – the attention to detail is the same for all wines in the portfolio.
Fielding 20th anniversary party details
• August 23, noon to 5 p.m.
• Enjoy live entertainment by The Postmen (noon to 4 p.m.) in the Vineyard Lounge while sipping on your fave Fielding wines.
• Enjoy delicious food available for purchase by Avella’s Woodfired Oven and Chz Plz!
• Includes first glass of wine and a collectible wine glass.
• Tickets go sale next and the link to purchase them will added when they do.
Three burning questions for Richie Roberts
Wines in Niagara: You started at Fielding in 2008, almost from the beginning of the winery opening in 2005. What was the philosophy of the wine program in those early years and how has the portfolio changed over that time?
Richie Roberts: To say that our portfolio has changed over the years would be an understatement! It’s taken a lot of years, but most of the wines we have here now barely resemble the wines in the early days at Fielding. It’s been a bit of an evolution, as it’s tough to drastically change things in a year or two when you inherit wines from previous winemakers.
When I arrived here in 2008 the makeup of our vineyards (in terms of varietals we grow and how they’re grown), was much different than it is today. Also, the families/grape growers we were working with at the time have changed a lot, but now over the last 10-15 years they have remained constant. As a result, it’s taken some time for us to get comfortable and have really just started getting in a good spot with everything that has changed over the years in the vineyard. We’re now in a place where we are starting to understand what works for us and what fits best into different spots in our portfolio.
I am approaching my 18th vintage at Fielding, and even though we have a lot of vintage variation here in Niagara, I am getting more comfortable and confident with where our wines are across the entire portfolio. That being said, things are almost certain to continue to evolve as we move forward.
WIN: You have such a well-rounded portfolio of wines from the entry-level and popular Long Weekend wines to general list LCBO wines, through the estate series and all the way up to your flagship Chosen Few red blend. I’m sure you have tweaked the portfolio many times, but what has remained constant? What do diehard fans expect from Fielding?
Roberts: I think as a small winery our biggest strength is our depth of portfolio across different wine styles/varietals, and consistency over vintages/price points. It’s something that we take a lot of pride in. There is a lot of thought put into creating every wine across the portfolio, every vintage.
There have been a lot of changes in terms of the wines we have created over the last 20 years, but for the last several years the varietals and vineyards we are focusing on have really been consistent. Focusing on the varietals we grow best in the vineyards we are working with has really helped to shape that evolution. One of the beautiful things about making wines in Niagara is that we can do a lot of different things well, and people across Niagara are making some incredible wines in a range of styles. And we are excited to continue to be a part of that.
Working at Fielding, I have been able to interact with people on a regular basis over the years, which has been amazing. I am sure there are a lot of our fans who I have never met that are equally enthusiastic about what we are doing. To me, that’s what it’s about; making wines that people want to drink, that they are proud to share with family and friends. I think our biggest followers who know our wines well are always confident that our wines are reliable, can age well, and have great value.
WIN: How would you describe your style of winemaking and how has it changed over nearly 20 years?
Roberts: This is a pretty deep question, so I will just keep my response very simple. I want to make wines that people enjoy drinking and sharing. Those wines (regardless of price or how specific their origin is) should be true to the place they are grown and reflect what the vintage gave us that growing season. Winemaking decisions, although they may be constantly evolving, should be made with those goals in mind. Sometimes we need to be hands-off in both the vineyard and winery with certain wines, and sometimes we need to be more intrusive with what we are doing. I have always believed that it is the winemaker’s responsibility to be mindful in every decision made along that path in the evolution of the wine from the start of the growing season all the way to bottling. Although our wines have changed a lot since I started here in 2008, I feel like this philosophy has been constant.
Wines in Niagara has an opportunity to taste a range of 18 current and new wines, including a special anniversary sparkling wine, mostly with Roberts and Heidi Fielding. Some of the wines were tasted separately at the Wines in Niagara home tasting table. Here is what I liked:
The Sparkling wines
Fielding Estate Anniversary Traditional Method Sparkling Wine 2020 ($60, released in July, 94 points) — This traditionally made sparkling wine is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that has spent four years on its lees and stands as a tribute to the 20th anniversary of the estate. A tiny bit of wine from every vintage since 2000 was put aside for this special wine, and the dosage is from the Chardonnay portion of the blend. It has a floral opening on the nose and a robust bead in the glass with lovely lemon biscuit, peach, yellow apple and toasty brioche notes. It has a vigorous bubble in the glass and a creamy mouthfeel with some flinty notes that integrate nicely with the sharp citrus, white peach, pear, ripe apples, toasted hazelnuts, and baked brioche on a lifted, fresh finish. Really fine brut style bubbly with classic Niagara finesse. This wine was tasted before the new labels were ready.
Fielding Estate Traditional Method Brut NV ($36, 92 points) — Although it’s labelled as a non-vintage sparkler, the base is primarily from the 2018 vintage. The blend in 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir with the dosage from its own wine. The nose is fresh and lively with notes of lemon toast, leesy/brioche accents, pear, apples and toasted almonds. It’s rich and creamy on the palate with sustained bubbles and reveals apple, quince, bergamot, baked bread, toasty brioche, a touch of flint and a brisk, lifted finish. Good value bubbles here.
Fielding Estate Traditional Made Sparkling Rosé NV ($32, 91 points) — The blend is primarily Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay mostly sourced from the 2023 vintage. It shows a pretty, pale salmon colour in the glass with fresh raspberries, cherries, red currants, violets and subtle toasty notes with an elegant bead of bubbles in the glass. The red berries are crisp and bright on a lively palate with subtle toasty notes, baked bread and robust bubbles on a lifted, finessed finish.
The white wines
Fielding Estate Pinot Grigio 2023 ($21, 90 points) — This is sourced from the estate’s Tufford Road Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation. Roberts does add a touch of barrel aging to round this out. It has a fresh nose of pear, peach, apple and citrus zest. It’s rounded on the palate with orchard fruits, vanilla toast, zesty citrus and a zippy finish in a bone-dry style.
Fielding Estate Chardonnay 2023 ($23, 91 points) — The estate fruit is hand-picked and sent straight to barrel for wild fermentation and malo before being aged for nine months in used French oak barrels. A lovely nose of pear, bergamot, yellow apple, stony minerality and well-integrated spice notes. It has a creamy mouthfeel in a robust (yet balanced) style that shows a ripe melange of orchard fruits, flinty/savoury notes and baking spices on a vibrant, long and finessed finish. Fantastic value here.
Fielding Estate Rock Pile Chardonnay 2022 ($36, 93 points) — The Chardonnay grapes for the Rock Pile are from the estate’s Tufford Road Vineyard. It’s built in a more “austere” style says Roberts with aging in French oak (25% new) for only nine months with an additional 12 months in bottle. It shows pure elegance on the nose with notes of perfumed pear, yellow apples, lemon tart and integrated spice notes. It has some weight and viscosity on the palate with notes of ripe pear, apple pie, a melange of citrus fruits and lovely subtle spices on a layered, long and vibrant finish. A lovely drop.
Fielding Chardonnay 2024 ($17, LCBO, 89 points) — The 2024 General List Chardonnay at the LCBO has always been made in an unoaked style but beginning with this 2024 vintage it’s moving to a barrel fermented and aged style. This has enticing notes of pear, yellow apples, nectarine, lemon zest and a hint of spice. The palate is rich and creamy with ripe orchard fruits, integrated spices and mouth-watering acidity on the finish.
Fielding Estate Riesling 2023 ($20, 92 points) — This is the largest bottling of all the estate wines from the home vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The fruit is selected from three separate plantings harvested over two days in the early fall of 2023. It’s a mineral bomb on the nose with fresh saline and wet stones followed by lime/citrus, pear, apricot and ginger notes. It’s nicely balanced between the 15 g/L of RS and the racy acidity that showcases gushing lime, crisp green apple, peach, a touch of savoury goodness and a refreshing finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Fielding Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($20, 89 points) — A bright nose of grapefruit, passionfruit, herbs and white peaches on the nose. There’s a touch of sweetness on the palate with notes of kiwi, grapefruit/citrus, fresh herbs and plenty of mouth-watering acidity on the finish to keep it all balanced.
The Rosé
Fielding Estate Rosé 2024 ($16, winery, Vintages July 5, 89 points) — This is a blend of Gamay (60%) and Merlot (40%). It shows a light copper colour in the glass with a nose of fresh red berries, and citrus zest. The fresh strawberries and raspberries on the palate are joined by a touch of anise, plums and citrus zest on the lifted finish.
The red wines
Fielding Estate Gamay 2024 ($19, 90 points) — This is a blend of Gamay sourced from the estate’s Tufford Road Vineyard and grapes from another vineyard in the Creek Shores sub-appellation not far away and closer to the lake. It was pressed straight to barrel for a short period before being blended and aged for four months in neutral oak, and further aged for two months before bottling. It’s made in fresh style with a bright nose of wild, savoury raspberries, plums, underbrush and an ever so subtle note of spice and pepper. It’s juicy and bright on the palate with a riot of red berries and plums with elevated freshness on the finish. Great value here for early drinking.
Fielding Estate Fireside Red Cabernet 2023 ($17, LCBO, 90 points) — This popular red blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from several vineyards in Niagara, was aged in older oak barrels and stainless steel. It’s medium bodied with a nose of bright red and dark berries, some floral notes and herbs with toasty spice accents. It’s soft and juicy on the palate with dark cherries, anise, cassis, earthy notes and a pinch of spice on a vibrant finish.
Fielding Estate Syrah 2020 ($56, 94 points) —This beautiful Syrah from the warm 2020 vintage was sourced from two blocks of vines in the Lowrey Vineyard on the St. David’s Bench. It was hand-harvested and spent five weeks on its skins before pressing and aging for 20 months in French oak on its lees before bottling (unfined and unfiltered) in late summer 2023. Reminiscent of those burly, rustic Rhone Syrahs, this has a smoky/meaty nose with rich notes of cassis, black currants, blackberries, fresh ground pepper, earthy savoury accents and toasted spices. It’s impressive and complex on the palate with a melange of dark berries, smoky grilled BBQ, black peppercorns, kirsch and savoury spice notes with a velvety texture and a long, echoing finish. A beautiful Syrah that can improve through 2034.
Fielding Estate Cabernet-Syrah 2022 ($30, 92 points) — The final blend of 18% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Syrah, and 67% Cabernet Franc was decided upon after a series of blind tastings and conforms with the house style of previous vintages. It was aged in new and older French oak barriques for 14 months. The Syrah makes a big impression on the nose with peppery dark berries and smoke, followed by cherry/kirsch, black raspberries, boysenberries and savoury spice notes. It has assertive structure on the palate with grippy tannins, meaty dark berries, ripe cherries, savoury/earthy notes, black pepper and a long, layered finish with plenty of acidity to keep it evolving for another decade or so. A cellar treasure.
Fielding Estate Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 ($40, 94 points) — Sourced from two separate blocks in the Lowrey Vineyard on the St. David’s Bench, the 2022 vintage in Niagara allowed for vines with a healthy canopy from timely mid-summer rains and a warm, dry fall. The grapes were hand-picked, destemmed and cold soaked for two days prior to being allowed to warm up and begin fermentation. Approximately 15% of the volume was fermented as whole clusters with stems. Following a total maceration time of 21 days, the grapes were gently pressed off and racked into barrel, where malolactic fermentation took place. After aging for nearly a year in French oak barrels, the wine was racked from barrel and bottled without fining or filtration and then left to age for just over one year prior to release. This is the 11th vintage of the Pinot Roberts has made from the famed Lowrey Vineyard. It’s beautifully perfumed on the nose with rose petals, black cherries and raspberries with cassis, earthy/savoury notes, chalky minerality and elegant spices notes. Such lovely poise on the palate with a velvety smooth texture, integrated cherries and raspberries, a touch of cassis, woodsy/savoury spices and that rousing vein of minerality before the long, echoing finish. Pure and expressive, this lovely drop can evolve through 2035.
Fielding Estate Cabernet Franc 2022 ($23, 90 points) — The fruit is sourced from three different vineyards in Niagara, all harvested very late in the growing season from low-yielding vines. After macerating on their skins for an extended period, the wines were drained into barrel, where they aged for 12 months. After aging on lees, the wines were assembled and bottled, without fining or filtration. “At this price point,” Roberts said, you want this wine to be approachable.” And it is that in spades. The nose shows brambly black raspberries, black currants, herbs, anise, dark cherries and spice. It’s a mouth-filling fruit bomb on the palate with a soft texture, ripe red fruits, a touch of licorice, subtly savoury notes and lifted, vibrant finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Fielding Estate Rock Pile Red 2022 ($24, 92 points) — The Cabernet Franc (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Merlot (15%) is selected from different barrel lots originating from several sub-appellations. The wines were aged independently in new and previously filled French oak barrels from select coopers for 12 months. A heck of a wine here for the price and one that can age gracefully in the cellar for a decade or more. It has perfumed nose of black currants, anise, ripe berries, elegant spice notes and just a hint of savoury herbs. It shows good structure on the palate with ripe tannins, big, bold dark berries, kirsch, a touch of mulled herbs, spice and a lifted, long finish. Bravo!
Fielding Estate Chosen Few 2020 ($110, 95 points) — The flagship red from Fielding is only made in what the winemaker feels are the best vintages, of which the 2020 is certainly one of them. The blend of Cabernet Franc (34%), Merlot (26%), Cabernet Sauvignon (26%), and Syrah (14%) is aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, one-third new with the rest older barrels, and another 18 months in bottle, and a sneaky Roberts delayed it further while “waiting on the labels.” Only 150 cases were made. Blockbuster comes to mind, as it did when I reviewed the last Chosen Few from the 2016 vintage. Such an enchanting nose of ripe Morello cherries and compoted wild black raspberries before the dark berries join the party with cassis and black currants and then the earthy, subtle herbaceous notes, toasty vanilla and spice kick in. It’s massive on the palate, a big, highly concentrated wine with ripe red and dark berries that come at you in layer after layer, all wrapped up in grippy tannic power, toasted spice notes, a touch of pepper, savouriness and a finish that goes on and on with enough mouth-watering acidity to give it lift and finesse to the last drop. Resist drinking it right now, or at least save a bottle for a special occasion a decade down the road. Can cellar to 2040 (maybe more).
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