By Rick VanSickle
The first time I met Dan Sullivan, he was on the deck of his retail facility overlooking his vineyard with a big glass of County Pinot Noir in his hands.
That was way back in 2010, and in many ways, Prince Edward County was still a curiosity with a growing cult following and an emerging reputation for terroir-driven Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Sullivan, Rosehall Run co-founder and winemaker, was at the forefront of the County revolution.
As we started tasting his young wines on a warm summer’s day (photo above), I asked Sullivan what drives winemakers like him to seek out a new wine region instead of planting roots in a more established area such as Niagara.
“It’s all about the dirt and the weather, baby,” he said with a wry smile. “Niagara has the looks, but we have the dirt.”
It’s the combination of soil and climate that attracted winemakers like Sullivan to the region in the early days. And it was the pursuit of making what those winemakers loved best — Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made in a Burgundian spirit. And Prince Edward County just happens to have some of the best dirt in Ontario for making those finicky grapes sing.
Rosehall Run is celebrating 25 years in the County. “We’re still inspired by the same things that started this journey,” said Sullivan. “Great vineyards and great wine fuelled by music, films and community. The Classics and B-Sides reflect both our foundation and our creativity.”
Throughout the anniversary year, the winery is hosting a range of special tastings, events, and collaborations celebrating the winery’s history, the community and creativity that continues to shape its future.
Rosehall Run is introducing a new look and a culinary partnership with Summer Wind Catering Co., bringing a fresh food element to the winery. Summer Wind is collaborating with Rosehall to create “thoughtful” grab-and-go items designed specifically to complement the wines made by Sullivan and associate winemaker Lee Baker. There will be new opportunities for guests to experience food and wine pairings in the tasting room and full slate of weekend pop-up events with special guests throughout the summer.
And, of course, at the centre of Rosehall Run’s 25 years of operation, is the wine portfolio, one of the deepest in the County. The winery has always believed that “great wine begins in healthy vineyards,” and will continue to strengthen sustainability practises across farming, production and hospitality with Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario certification, obtained in 2023. Rosehall Run believes that this ensures the “land and community remain vibrant for generations to come.”
As for the portfolio, Rosehall Run has one of the deepest in The County, and it runs the gamut of top-notch County Pinots, Chards and Rieslings (among others) as well as sourced fruit from key vineyards in Niagara over three key tiers.
The Classics: These are the winery’s headline tracks — refined expressions of cool climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that showcase the precision, structure and terroir of the estate’s vineyards in the County.
The B-Sides: These wines represent the “spirit of exploration.” These are wines that give the winemaking team room to evolve with new techniques, blends and terroirs. “They are expressive and often surprise and delight both in style and in name.”
The Greatest Hits: These are the wines “you know and love. They are widely available at the LCBO for “everyday enjoyment.”
And, if you haven’t noticed by now, there is a not-so-subtle musical theme throughout the naming of the tiers and many of individual labels produced. Some are obvious like Stardust, the estate’s traditionally made sparkling wine. Stardust is in reference to David Bowie’s transformative album The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars.
Sullivan loves his ’60s and ’70s rock, prog-rock, and British invasion music and sprinkles in references subtly throughout his portfolio. To get a feel for his musical proclivities, here’s a Dan Sullivan Spotify Playlist, entitled Another day on another cloud, which can be found here.
As one does, I have assigned a song to every review below, some of which are on Sullivan’s own playlist. I have very similar tastes in music as Sullivan, but he has a far deeper, more esoteric repertoire that he draws from.
Here are my reviews from recent releases broken into the various tiers.
The Classics: PEC and Estate Grown
Rosehall Run JCR Chardonnay 2022 ($36, Vintages through the LCBO’s Direct Deliver Program, 94 points) — Rosehall Run does an exceptional job from top to bottom of an impressive portfolio whether the wines are sourced from their own estate grapes or from the wider Ontario VQA net. But one thing is clear — The estate JCR Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are always among the best in the County and, frankly, all of Ontario. This is 11th vintage for the top 2022 Chardo, named after co-founder John Campbell Reston.
The JCR series is crafted with the intent of showcasing the finest expression of Rosehall Run’s estate terroir. The grapes for the 2022 JCR Chardonnay were selected from the North Block, the oldest vines originally planted in 2001, and the South Block, planted in 2004. The juice was settled and then barreled down into 500 L French oak puncheons. Primary fermentation took place in barrel with a selection of natural yeasts, as well as a small percentage of wild fermented yeast present. After initial fermentation, the wine was moved to more varied 500 L French oak puncheons composed of 40% new oak, and the balance second fill barrels. The wine spent 20 months aging in oak. It has such a beautiful nose that shows pure elegance and that County personality going on with river rock and saline minerality, quince, bergamot, Meyer lemon, subtle peach and nicely integrated spice notes. It’s fresh and nuanced on the palate with more showy orchard fruits, chalky notes, fresh saline, creamy lemon, and fine oak spice that is layered and elegant all the way through the lifted, finessed and long finish. A true delight that can cellar through 2032.
Music match: From my own “Liked Songs” playlist on Spotify, I’m going The Low Spark of High-Heeled Boys by Traffic. It starts slow … but wait for it!
Rosehall Run JCR Pinot Noir 2022 ($45, Vintages through select the LCBO, Direct Deliver Program, 93 points) — Like above, this is the 11th vintage of the top Pinot Noir. Fruit for the 2022 JCR Pinot Noir was selected from the North Block, the oldest vines originally planted in 2001, and the West Block, planted in 2011. The yield of the estate Pinot Harvest was on the lighter side, about 80% of the expected crop size. Initial time on skins lasted about 24 days with pump-overs going from closed tanks to open puncheons during this period. The juice was then settled in the cellar in a selection 40% new and 60% second fill 265 L French barrels for 19 months. There is a beautiful vein of pure elegance that runs through both the JCRs that draws you in from the get-go. Such a perfumed nose of lilacs, pure red berries that are perfectly integrated, foraged mushrooms, a touch of cassis and integrated fine oak spice notes. The palate shows a medley of wild raspberries, dark cherries, aniseed, chalky/mineral notes, on a silky-smooth frame, elegant spice notes and a super long, chiseled finish that lasts for minutes. Can cellar through 2036.
Music match: Digging into Sullivan’s Another day on another cloud Spotify list from what many feel is the best prog-rock band ever assembled — King Crimson. Not sure if it’s my favourite band from that genre, but the song I Talk to the Wind, is fairly mellow for King Crimson, and smooth as silk. Like this Pinot.
Rosehall Run Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($28, 90 points) — The estate Sauvignon Blanc was first planted at Rosehall Run in 2001. The original planting consisted of a single row, which was included in an experimental planting of several vinifera varieties in the North Block. In 2013, Sullivan decided to take the plunge and start growing Sauvignon Blanc in earnest and today there’s just over an acre planted. The fruit was handpicked, and after careful sorting, it was destemmed directly into the press. Following pressing, the juice sat to clarify before transferring to used 500 L acacia barrels. The nose shows fresh pear, quince, kiwi, passionfruit and some citrus with just a subtle whiff of spice. It’s quite elegant and fresh on the palate with lovely texture, pure fruits, inconspicuous grassy/herb notes, a touch of spice and mouthwatering acidity on a finessed finish. Drinking well right now.
Music pairing: Yep, going with the obvious here. Fresh by Kool & the Gang. “Fresh and lovely like a dream come true.” Catchy AND apt.
The B-Sides: Twenty Mile Bench or Ontario – focus
on the Nedelko Vineyard or blends – available from
the winery, the online store or restaurants
Rosehall Run Sully’s Mix 2024 ($29, 90 points) — For this vintage of Sully’s Mix, winemaker Lee Baker elected to employ carbonic maceration, only implemented once before over a decade ago. The blend is a mix of Pinot Noir (80%) from estate fruit with the remaining balance of the blend comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), and Merlot (5%), both coming from Nedelko Vineyards located on the Twenty Mile Bench. The Pinot Noir spent time in stainless steel, while the Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot spent approximately four months in French oak barrels and was blended in after the fact. A true mix tape here with a nose of ripe raspberries, anise, herbs, savoury notes, bubble gum, purple plums and gentle spice notes. It’s a touch reductive on the palate with woodsy/savoury notes, darker berries, raspberries, black licorice, earthy notes, juicy plums and subtle spice notes with a lifted, finessed finish. Can cellar through 2031.
Music pairing: Taking a page from Sullivan’s Spotify mix tape, we’re going with Ball of Confusion by The Temptations.
Rosehall Run Acid Head Riesling 2024 ($26, 93 points) — The 2024 version of Acid Head is only the second time Rosehall has bottled a Riesling under this name, with the last vintage made in 2016. This bottling was created to offer a different take on the Riesling fruit they source at from Nedelko Vineyards, located on the Twenty Mile Bench in Niagara. This is made in a super dry style at 2 g/L of residual sugar. It was fermented in 500 L neutral French oak barrels and aged in oak for 10 months. As the label notes: “Let your freak flag fly!” This rocks on the nose with vivid notes of lemon cream, white peach, honeysuckle and ginger with saline and stony minerality. It’s savoury and chiseled on the palate with nervy acidity, gushing citrus, peachy/lime notes, and that lovely note of ginger on a surprisingly smooth finish that is lifted, long and benefits from sizzling acidity. Riesling freaks need this in their cellar, which can only get better through 2033.
Music pairing: This song popped into my head right away. White Rabbit by Jefferson Airplane.
Bonus Tracks – VQA Twenty Mile Bench or Ontario – focus
on Nedelko vineyard or blends – available from the winery,
the Rosehall online store or restaurants
Rosehall Run Cabernet Merlot 2021 ($26, released at Vintages May 9, 92 points) — The grapes (60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot) were sourced from select old vine lots from around the Niagara Peninsula. A large portion of the blend came from the Schenck Vineyards in the Creek Shores sub-appellation. Aging was in French and American barrels for 16 months. No shrinking violet here with an assertive nose of dark cherries, cassis, anise, juicy plums and barrel spices that come at you in layer after layer. It’s nicely structured on the palate with ripe tannins in support of black currants, plums, kirsch, black licorice, light herbs, savoury/earthy notes and toasty spices on a long, finessed finish. Can cellar through 2036.
Music match: A classic Ontario red blend deserves a classic rock song just like this — Listen to the Music by the Doobie Brothers.
The Greatest Hits – VQA Ontario,
available through the LCBO
Rosehall Run Unoaked Chardonnay 2025 — ($17, LCBO, 89 points) — The unoaked Chardonnay has been a staple in the VQA section at the LCBO since its 2011 vintage debut. The fruit for this popular wine was sourced from a few Ontario Certified Sustainable vineyards. It’s pure and simple with fermentation and aging in stainless steel tanks. It has a robust, pure nose of white peach, pear, nectarine, lemon curd and subtle creamy notes. It’s juicy with some saline minerality, ripe orchard fruit, and creamy lemon tart that lingers on the bright, smooth and lifted finish. Just like our music match below.
Music match: Smooth Operator by Sade. Perfect!
Rosehall Run Pinot Noir 2024 ($22, LCBO, 90 points) — This, too, has been a staple in the VQA section at the LCBO since its 2011 vintage debut. The Pinot Noir grapes are sourced from the Rosehall Run estate vineyard and the Nedelko Vineyard on Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench. A shorter elevage period in barrel and a higher amount of neutral oak lets the fruit show its stuff here. I love this wild, untethered style of Pinot that shows no pretentious attributes. It’s built simply for raucous debate around a roaring fire or backyard gathering. The nose is juicy with a range of earthy red berries, savoury notes, and integrated spices and floral notes. It’s quite robust on the palate with a rustic feel to go with brambly raspberries, anise, dark cherries on a lifted, bright finish. You can serve this with a slight chill and no need to cellar.
Music match: Digging back into Sullivan’s Another day on another cloud playlist, this goes perfectly with the Rosehall Pinot: Hurdy Gurdy Man by Donovan.
Tempranillo, with a chapter all its own
The story behind Rosehall Run’s bold excursion into the unknown of growing Tempranillo in the “inhospitable” terrain of Prince Edward County, began with the 2017 vintage of this Spanish variety.
When I sat down with Sullivan at his winery in 2019, he poured me a first sip of the then 2017 Tempranillo, which only exists due to the death of Ehrenfelser vines in the estate’s Hungry Point Vineyard north block. He put the Ehrenfelser out of its misery and planted the County’s first Tempranillo, the Spanish wonder grape, in what appeared to be the unlikeliest of places. Even Sullivan had his doubts.
The labels weren’t even made for the new variety when originally tasted, but Sullivan was excited to pour his first Tempranillo for me in 2019 on the balcony of the tasting room, and I was beyond thrilled to try it. After tasting it in The County and retasting at home after it was labelled and ready for market I was suitably impressed. I had to get more of the winemaker’s thoughts on why in the world he chose Tempranillo.
“What was I thinking? Quixotic fantasy … a fool’s errand planting Iberian nobility — Tempranillo — in the inhospitable, hard scrabble limestone on Lake Ontario’s north shore? At Hungry Point no less. On the hungriest rocky plot in our north block. But I did it anyway. After many years of admiring it from afar, it was time. The Ehrenfelser we originally planted there proved no match and after 12 years of suffering it was time to take it off the cross, or more appropriately, trellis wires,” said Sullivan.
“I read a lot about Tempranillo: how it loved limestone and clay, how it craved cold night air and how viticulturists were chasing up hills and mountains, north to find ever colder sites to express its true elegance. How they, like I, suspect the terroir was baked out of it on valley floors in the Spanish sun. And of course, how in my 30-plus-year love of wine may have drunk a barrel (or more) of it and been enthralled by the likes of Alejandro Fernández, Vina Tondonia and Marques de Murrieta. I selected ENTAV (for the clone), the early one, ripening ahead of Cabernet Franc, according to the world’s nursery bible, so I thought we had a shot.”
His instincts, so eloquently expressed above, were spot on. What a fine expression of this grape when introduced to the unique terroir of the County this has become and continues to impress with the 2024 vintage, only the second vintage of this wine ever. Hear are my thoughts on only the second vintage of Tempranillo made at Rosehall Run.
Rosehall Run Tempranillo 2024 (3-pack for $150 is exclusive to members of the Rosehall Run Mixtape wine club, 93 points) — The Rosehall Run’s estate vineyards consist of many varieties — some you might not actually see on our shelf. That is because Prince Edward County was, early on, a very experimental area for grape growing. Sitting on the edge of what many consider the optimum grape growing climate, the pioneers of the PEC wine community knew that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would grow here because they have a shorter growing season, but many asked what else could work. There are many small plots of experimental varietals around Ontario, but Tempranillo accounts for only two that Rosehall knows of — their own small plot and one at Stratus on Niagara-on-the-Lake. “While we have had our struggles with growing it here, when we get a good vintage with enough yield (the last was 2017), it is cause for a celebration.”
Only 1,000 vines were planted at Rosehall in 2013, in arguably one of the rockiest areas of the vineyard with the least amount of soil. The struggle for these vines is real! The Tempranillo is always the last varietal harvested each year and this vintage was no exception. The fruit was handpicked and left to ferment on the skins for two weeks. It was then barreled down to French Oak — one third of the barrels were new. The barrels were blended and aged for approximately seven months.
The wine is eerily similar to the 2017 vintage, not quite like a Spanish Rioja, but more in-line with a minerally/stony County take on this variety with a lifted and perfumed nose of black currants, dark cherries, leather, dried tobacco, plums, floral notes and integrated spice notes. The tannins are plush on the palate and add some structure to the medley of red and dark berries, juicy plums, savoury tobacco leaf, earthy notes and toasty spices with that signature finesse and mouth-watering acidity on the long finish that promises a long-lasting life in the cellar. If you love Rioja wines, try this County version — you won’t be disappointed! Can easily cellar through 2038.
Music match: I thought long and hard for the perfect musical complement to go with this wine and landed on Hocus Pocus by Focus. I was so struck by this Dutch prog-rock band in the 1970s that I named my faithful dog after the lead singer Thijs van Leer. Thijs (my dog) had wild eyes, one blue and one brown, as a husky-black lab mix, and he faithfully never left my side during my Yukon days from 1974-1985. Focus didn’t bother with too many lyrics, but this track (weirdly) contains yodelling mixed in with energetic instrumentals in the prog-rock vein. It’s contemplative and nervy, just like this wonderful Tempranillo.
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