By Rick VanSickle
Thirty Bench winemaker Emma Garner just might be the only one standing between the complete obliteration of Riesling in Niagara or its sudden reversal of fortunes.
OK, that’s a just a tad dramatic (sorry), but here we are witnessing the slow, painful demise of what was one of Niagara’s superstar grapes to Riesling being very much unloved, or perhaps misunderstood, by the masses. Wine lovers have moved on and left the once noble grape variety to flounder helplessly, hopelessly in a cruel world that has decided to cancel the once mighty Riesling.
Numbers from the Grape Growers of Ontario don’t tell the entire story because they don’t include estate grapes and weather can play a part, but one of the best years for Ontario Riesling was 2017 with 11,642 tonnes sold, while the smallest harvest in recent years was 2022 with only 5,516 tonnes sold, just five years later.
“It’s just not in high demand anymore,” says Garner, “which breaks my heart.” She points to the glory days for Niagara Riesling, the period between 2010 and 2012, when consumers couldn’t get enough of it, and growers couldn’t grow enough. Sales were booming and people would line up to get those site-specific Triangle, Wood Post and Steel Post expressions of Thirty Bench Riesling, along with the winemaker’s blend. Now? Not so much. While quality continues to improve, and new bottlings — from Wild Cask to sparkling to late harvest added to the portfolio — it’s not the wine’s fault, it’s you, dear wine lover.
They still come to Thirty Bench for the Riesling, but instead of beating down the door to snag those single-vineyard wines, consumers now have flipped the switch to the blended estate Riesling, a combination of Triangle, Steel Post and Wood Post, while the trio of specialized wines are more sought out by die-hard Riesling fans who, rightly so, still find beauty in those niche expressions.
“We know what we have here is very special,” says Garner, who points to the age-old conundrum that has dogged Riesling throughout its entire history. “What is it,” she asks. “People just don’t know what they are going to get. Is it sweet or is it dry?” That is (and always has been) the dilemma with seemingly no solution in sight, and it’s not particular to Niagara. Riesling is inherently sweet by the numbers but can feel very dry (or at least balanced) on the palate because of Niagara’s racy acidity. But every single winery is different in their approach to actual and perceived sweetness.
Garner also points to another collective dilemma for Riesling: “We just don’t do well promoting it.” She doesn’t blame anyone for that but does muse that Chardonnay has done particularly well with wide-spread, industry association funded marketing, including the i4C weekend (coming up July 17-20) that draws thousands to Niagara every year and steels the limelight from good old Riesling.
“I’m going to continue doing my job promoting Riesling,” says Garner as we sit down to explore a range of her best Rieslings recently. The winemaker will never give up on Riesling, and there are others — Charles Baker, Hidden Bench, Cave Spring, Fogolar, Vineland Estate, Fielding Estate, Flat Rock Cellars, Dobbin Estate, Westcott Vineyards, and many more — who also put this grape high up on their priority list. But it will take a lot more work to return this variety back to the popularity it once enjoyed and, frankly, deserves.
Garner’s passion for great wine and food was fuelled by travel to Australia, New Zealand, France, Germany and British Columbia while completing Brock University’s Oenology and Viticulture program. After graduating, she focused her continued hands-on learning in the vineyards and cellars of Niagara.
In 2005, Garner embarked on a small journey west from her position at Trius Winery to Thirty Bench Wine Makers. After spending five years getting to know the nuances of the Beamsville Bench, Garner was named the winemaker at Thirty Bench, a winery that had won a special place in her heart.
Garner, who has worked her way up to one of the biggest jobs in the Canadian wine industry as the senior winemaker for Andrew Peller Ltd. (which owns Thirty Bench), still finds time to put her focus on the wines made at the historic Thirty Bench winery. While Riesling is one of the key varieties made there, Cabernet Franc has emerged as a “dance partner” for Riesling.
Her approach to winemaking is based on allowing the vineyard to express its own voice by making wine with minimal intervention from 100% estate farm. Garner particularly enjoys working with Rieslings. Her signature method of fermenting at low temperatures creates enhanced aromatic compounds in wines that burst with complexity and intensity. On the red side, her Cabernet Francs have found success on the awards circuit.
The winery is the one of the most awarded Canada, winning several gold and platinum awards from top national competitions as well as international competitions. Garner’s 2015 Small Lot Cabernet Franc won the coveted best in show distinction by Decanter Magazine, the first Canadian winery to win that award for a premium wine.
Here’s what I liked from our recent tasting at the winery:
The Rieslings
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Winemaker’s Blend Riesling 2024 ($20, 92 points) — This is a 100% estate blend from the three blocks — Steel Post, Triangle and Wood Post — of Riesling on the farm. It shows gushing lime, white peach, saline minerality, and bright apple notes on the nose. It’s refreshing and lifted on the palate and shows classic Beamsville Bench wet stones and saline minerality, orchard fruits, zesty citrus and mouth-watering acidity keeping it lively on the finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard 2021 ($28, 94 points) — I would call the Triangle Vineyard Riesling a classic Niagara “cru” among a handful in all of Niagara. It comes from grapes planted in 1981 to the 21b clone and dazzles from vintage to vintage and has the stuffing to cellar well for a decade or more. The nose is gorgeous with pure wet stone and seashells followed by lime, floral notes, crisp apple, peach and lemon tart. It’s quite concentrated and juicy on the palate with notes of white peach, zesty lime, bergamot, ripe apple, nectarine, waves of fresh minerality, honeycomb, a touch of ginger and a long, lifted and finessed finish. Just gorgeous Riesling here that will improve through 2035.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Riesling Triangle Vineyard 2017 (ask for this at the winery, if interested, 93 points) — The nose on this nicely aged Riesling is more subdued at first, but slowly opens up to delicate notes of white flowers, yellow apple, pear, peach and lemon zest. It’s much more expressive and concentrated on the palate with white peach, baked apple, lemon chiffon, saline minerality, just a touch of petrol emerging and sizzling acidity keeping it all rocking through the finish. Can cellar to 2032.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Triangle Vineyard Riesling 2008 (96 points) — And just to have a third Triangle Riesling over three decades to compare, I’m republishing this 2008 version opened not ago. Showing a mature and lovely golden colour in the glass, it has an exotic nose of saline, beeswax, citrus preserve, lemon curd, stony minerality, apple skin, a hint of petrol and pine, apricot tart and underlying savoury mushroom notes. It just explodes on the palate in a rich, textured and layered style that reveals lemon candy, stony/saline minerality, wild honey notes, poached pear and quince, ginger and still with freshness, lip-smacking acidity and a lifted, very long and luxurious finish that leaves the impression that this beautiful wine in still evolving. If you are lucky enough to have some of this in your cellar, open one, save one and you will be equally amazed by this historic and special Niagara Riesling.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Riesling Wild Cask 2020 ($32, 93 points) — The first Wild Cask Riesling was made in 2013 after Garner was inspired by a visit to the Mosel in Germany. The goal is for lower alcohol and higher acidity while leaving greater residual sugars. “The wild ferment brings texture on the palate and fresh, bright acidity,” says Garner. It shows lovely florals, apricot, Key lime, peach, yellow apples and citrus zest with racy saline minerality. It explodes on the palate with assertive orchard fruits, ginger, honeycomb, quince, stony minerality and a long, textured and finessed finish. Slightly off dry, but nicely balanced by the acidity. Can cellar to 2032.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Riesling Wild Cask 2017 ($28, 92 points) — There is an intriguing ginger and floral note on the nose, followed by peach pie, Key lime, quince, stony minerality and just a touch of reduction. It’s concentrated and textured on the palate and shows ripe peach and pear fruits, honeycomb, and lime-ginger that benefits from freshening acidity on the finish. Sensational Riesling that is drinking brilliantly right now.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Late Harvest Riesling 2023 ($40 for 375 mL, 94 points) — The nose on this sweet treat is profoundly robust with notes of lemon meringue, apricot tart, ginger, white flowers, peach pie and wild honey. It’s not as sweet as icewine on the palate (55 g/L of RS) but nicely balanced by the racy acidity. Look for a concentrated array of yellow apples, apricots, ripe peaches drizzled in honey, candied citrus notes and a brisk finish keeping everything lively to the last sip.
The rest of the white wines
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Chardonnay 2021 ($38, 93 points) — The Small Lot Chardonnay typically spends 10 months in French oak barriques and another 10 months in bottle before release. This is an elegantly styled Bench Chardonnay with notes of yellow apples, Bosc pear, bergamot, saline minerality, floral notes, and lemon zest with lovely integrated spices. It’s a bit more rounded and luxurious on the palate with a creamy texture, ripe orchard fruits, lemon curd, vanilla toast and nicely framed spices on a long, layered and finessed finish. Elegance and precision here for enjoyment through 2030.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Wild Cask Gewurztraminer 2021 ($32, 92 points) — This is the last of the estate Gewurztraminer from Thirty Bench after vine disease finally took its toll. It’s 100% wild fermented and whole bunch pressed. What an intriguing, aromatic nose of apricot, grapefruit, ginger, lychee nut, pear and tropical fruits. It has a creamy, almost oily, texture on the palate with subtle tannins from the whole bunch pressing and an array of exotic tropical fruits, lychee, grapefruit, ginger and spice with a rounded, layered finish. Sad to say good-bye to such a wonderful treasure such as this. Drink now in its full glory.
The red wines
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Wild Cask Gamay Noir 2023 ($31, Wine Club, 91 points) — This first Gamay from Thirty Bench is 100% whole cluster pressed, wild fermented and aged in neutral oak puncheons. It shows appealing plums, dark cherries, earthy/savoury accents, cocoa and a hint of spice on the nose. It’s mouth-filling and robust on the palate with wild raspberries, cherries, anise, plums and integrated spice with good acid lift on a bright finish.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Winemaker’s Blend Red 2022 ($25, 91 points) — The blend for this Bordeaux-style red wine is 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc and 21% Merlot. It’s aged for 12 months in a combination of French and American barriques, 25% of which is new oak. The nose reveals wild raspberries, anise, subtle herbaceous notes, black currants and spice. It’s fairly robust and caressing on the palate with juicy dark and red berries, savoury herbs, smooth tannins and a lifted, finessed finish. Good value here. Can cellar through 3032.
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Winemaker’s Blend Cabernet Franc 2022 ($27, 92 points) — Garner has slowly and meticulously increased the portfolio of Cabernet Francs at Thirty Bench with the Wild Cask and Small Lot bottlings. If she were to tell you what the signature superstar grapes at the estate are, she would say: “Riesling and Cabernet Franc are our dancing partners.” The Winemaker’s Blend spends 12 months in French oak, 25% of which is new oak. It is quintessential Niagara Bench Cab Franc with a nose of black raspberries, Morello cherries, anise, cigar leaf tobacco, savoury/minty herbs and oak spices. It’s mouth-filling on the palate with chalky minerality, firm tannins and turning to darker fruits of anise, black currants along with kirsch, herbaceous notes, smoky tobacco and toasted vanilla bean with spice on a perfectly lifted and finessed finish. Another great value wine from Thirty Bench that will pay bigger dividends with cellaring through 2034,
Thirty Bench Wine Makers Small Lot Cabernet Franc 2020 ($68, 95 points) — The Small Lot Cab Franc is crafted from the top barrels and the best vintages as chosen by Garner and her winemaking team. It spends 22 months in 100% French oak barriques. Wow, what a beautiful rendition of Niagara Cabernet Franc. A beguiling nose of robust black currants, dark cherries, wild black raspberries, fine herbs, tobacco and elegant oak spices. It’s dense and rich on the palate with a firm tannic backbone that opens up to a juicy array of black and red currants, kirsch, anise/licorice, crunchy raspberry purée, toasted vanilla bean, fine oak spices and a finessed finish that goes on and on. I sense this beautiful Cab Franc is just beginning its journey with much more to come. You can comfortably cellar this wine through 2035.
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